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Scratches on Stainless...

Discussion in 'The 1911 Forum' started by glocknut, Sep 11, 2009.

  1. glocknut

    glocknut New Member

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    I have one pistol in brushed stainless that every time i take it out and fiddle with it i find a new scratch on it. A different pistol "colt commander" that does not scratch at all. But this one i am talking about will scratch so so easily....

    Are some finishes softer than others? Anyone else have a gun that seems to scratch easier than others?

    mike
    gn
  2. Doc1911

    Doc1911 New Member

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    There are different types of stainless steel (and some have coatings over them ...).

    There are some other ways to get rid of scratches: (1) use Flitz (or diamond paste - Gesswein.com part number 216-9078, etc.) and a cotton cloth to clean up some minor scratches from a stainless steel . Applying some Flitz...letting it dry...rubbing it out with the cloth...repeating.... (2) use white rouge (comes in a large crayon looking stick) with a Dremel and the polishing pads (you do need to be cautious with how much pressure you apply on the buffing wheel.), (3) Scotbrite pads - Red is course, gray is fine.

    WARNING: SATIN FINISHED or BEAD BLASTED Stainless will end up polished bright if you use metal polish to remove scratches. DO NOT use STEEL WOOL on a STAINLESS gun.

    Scratches, Holster rub marks, etc are just character marks of a well used gun.

    This is just my (and that of others) experience, but a lot depends on the type of stainless, etc.
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2009
  3. tex45acp

    tex45acp New Member

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    Glocknut,

    I used to have a pre-loaded Springfield Champion that seemed to have a softer grade of stainless steel. I have always used the purple/maroon Scotch Brite Pads on my brushed stainless finishes. It works great and they are fairly cheap. I buy mine at a local NAPA auto parts store or anywhere they sell automotive paints. Here are a couple of my guns I have used them on.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  4. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    eh, I wouldnt sweat it too much, scratches add character and prove the gun is a shooter. I dont own a single gun that doesnt have at least a dozen scratches on it, and I always get complimented on how nice my weapons are at the range. Mine are well used, accurate and reliable, cleaned thoroughly after each use and put away well lubed...;)
  5. Doc1911

    Doc1911 New Member

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    Those pics look nice. :D:D:D
  6. glocknut

    glocknut New Member

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    I don't like scratches... Yuck.

    mike
    gn
  7. glocknut

    glocknut New Member

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    PS

    Thanks Everyone!

    mike
    gn
  8. muddober

    muddober Active Member

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    Mike, if you place your gun in one of those fleece lined gun rugs and never take it out of your safe and go shoot it, it will never, never scratch.:D

    Ron

    Ps: tex45acp, that was very informative, I will have to try that.
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2009
  9. Shooter45

    Shooter45 *Administrator* Staff Member

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    I have used the green ScotchBrite pads sucessfully but never used the purple ones. I used light pressure and worked slowly. I'll have to pick up a purple pad to have on hand. Thanks for the tip. :)
  10. glocknut

    glocknut New Member

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    Yeah.... :rolleyes:

    mike
    gn
  11. Suicide*Ride

    Suicide*Ride New Member

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    Mike, I have found that these work the best for removing scratches in a stainless finish, & won't round sharp edges like a Scotch-brite pad. They come in thin, flexible pads, & thicker, 1in. foam blocks. I own 8 or 9 in med. & fine grits, & bought a couple that have a beveled edge (knife edge) on 1 side, that has come in handy several times!!

    Geeze!! I just remembered...:rolleyes:.... you can buy them in the painting / hardware section @ wally world!! :p

    They're the cat's meow as I like to say...

    http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...A9E023IJD0GR3O74_nid=2ZJ73H7V2CbeS1HF20LRQWgl

    Stainless steel or CRES (Corrosion RESistant steel) comes in two main grades:

    300 series Austinetic CRES (non-magnetic) Very corrosion resistant & retains it's strength in high & low temp. applications.

    400 series Martensitic CRES (magnetic) Contains chromium and no nickel. Harder than 300 series cres because it can be heat treated, but will rust in a worst case scenerio. Ever seen a knife blade made out of 440 stainless? ;)

    On top of all that, investment cast stainless steels will be a little softer than billet or forged steels (due to work hardening), & will scratch a little easier. I'll have to check my Colt combat commander w/a magnet & see if it is 300 series or 400 series. You can work-harden 300 cres by cold-rolling it, & I'm thinking the slide of a Colt has rolled emblems so maybe that's why they don't scratch as easily. ;)

    Hope that answers your question. (in a nutshell! :p)

    SR :)
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2009
  12. delta13soultaker

    delta13soultaker New Member

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    In Wal-Mart or a dollar store, there are those little smooth foam pads in the cosmetic area that women use to buff their nails.

    It's not a file. It is smooth, like foam. I think they cost about a dollar.

    If you lightly buff a brushed or bead blasted SS finish, those things will quickly remove scratches.
  13. glocknut

    glocknut New Member

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    I'll give it a try. It couldn't be any worse than it allready is... Oh boy... have i EVER said that before!!! :rolleyes:

    The finish on this one scratches soo much easier than anything else. Just doesn't seem right?

    mike
    gn
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