Sears .22

Discussion in '.22-Rimfire Forum' started by Smokin Guns, Mar 7, 2003.

  1. Smokin Guns

    Smokin Guns New Member

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    dan70
    Member
    Posts: 18
    (1/3/02 11:09:39 pm)
    Reply Sears .22
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    I picked up a Sears semi-auto .22 the other day and was wondering who actually made it.
    It says MOD. 3T CAL. 22 S,L, OR LR. Under that it says MOD. NO. 273.2390

    I would also like to get an approximate age for it. The seriel # is 147XXX.

    A previous owner has sanded all the finish off of the barrel and mag tube. So any refinishing
    suggestions are appreciated also.

    One more question. What is the best way to clean the action/bolt on this thing?
    This is the first semi of any kind that I have owned.


    K75RT
    Member
    Posts: 15
    (1/4/02 7:04:48 am)
    Reply Re: Sears .22
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    Your rifle was made by Winchester; it is called a Model 190. They were made from 1967 to 1980. The barrel is removable on the 190 but you'll need to get the wrench from Brownells. You can remove the barrel and mag tube and have a Gunsmith reblue them for you. The reason you have to remove the barrel is the receiver is made of aluminium; bluing salts will eat it up. The takedown is rather involved, if you can not find it anywhere contact me via email and I'll explain how to take it down to the major components.
    Another possible refinishing option is to buy some teflon/moly
    paint that is cured in a household oven. It is available from Brownells too. I've had excellent results with this stuff.

    AntiqueDr
    Senior Chief Moderator Staff
    Posts: 1675
    (1/4/02 8:11:07 am)
    Reply
    ezSupporter
    Re: Sears .22
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    Here's my suggestion on the 190 Winchester.

    Cycle the bolt (make sure its unloaded) and put on-safe. Remove the inner magazine tube. Drift out the large plastic crosspin visible above the trigger. Tip the trigger housing down at the rear, then move it rearward about 1/8" to clear the stud at the front. Remove the trigger group downward.

    My advice is to not disassemble the trigger group any further. Reassembly is more complicated than it should be, and you can do a decent cleaning job with pressurized sprays and soaking.

    To remove the bolt, retract it slightly and hold it in place with a finger (gun is upside down). Lift the front of the bolt while holding the bolt rearward about 1/4" and remove the bolt handle. Now move the bolt backwards another inch, tip the front end upward (gun is upside down) and remove the bolt from the receiver. Be very careful about the bolt spring and follower, they are under tension. Do not kink the spring. Again, no need to disassemble further for cleaning.

    A word of warning. Reinstalling the bolt and bolt spring is a serious pain. Literally. You have to compress the bolt spring a few coils at a time and hold it against the tension while you try to get the bolt in place. Plus, the bottom edges of the receiver are SHARP. Have Bandaids available, and be prepared to hunt down the bolt spring guide when your screwdriver slips and it shoots across the room.

    The Win 190 series guns are the #1 appearing "gun-in-a-bag" around here - perhaps a tie with the Nylon 66.
    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    www.apaxenterprises.com

    LIKTOSHOOT
    Senior Chief Moderator Staff
    Posts: 3336
    (1/4/02 10:38:37 am)
    Reply Re: Sears .22
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    "Gun in the bag" Doc, you slay me......add the Remington 597 to THAT list too. LTS

    dan70
    Member
    Posts: 20
    (1/6/02 12:01:36 am)
    Reply Re: Sears .22
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    Thanks for the info. Sounds like a pain but for $39 I couldn't pass it up. Not sure how accurate
    it is yet but it chambers and fires good.
  2. joem

    joem New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2011
    Messages:
    3
    Hi! I have that rifle. I need a diagram of the firing mechanism. Having a problem reassembling.

    Thanks,

    Joe
  3. Bobitis

    Bobitis Guest

    Here ya go. Copy and view.

    Attached Files:

  4. Big Shrek

    Big Shrek Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    NorthWest Florida
    The stock can be quite simple, if you let it :)

    The biggest thing is, use a HIGH quality Stain and Clearcoat...which means, skip the Minwax Stain...and use Spar Varnish.
    Reason I say Skip the Minwax, is its the cheapest quality stain on the market...it gives Decent results...
    but you'll be wanting High Quality Results...which means get better quality stain.

    I usually grab a pack of Sanding Sponges from Harbor Freight Tools, Coarse Grit...and remove all finish from the stock...
    being careful NOT to round the sharp edges...keep your angles.
    Brush all sawdust off and apply your first coat of stain...let it dry FULLY, then apply your second coat.
    I enjoy Wiping Stains, like those from Wood You or General Finishes or Old Dad's or Formby's or Bullseye...the Good stuff :)
    After you reach the desired color...and it dries totally, you can then apply the Spar Varnish.

    I like Spar Varnish because it has elasticity...meaning weather doesn't tend to affect it much...it will swell/shrink WITH the wood.
    WARNING: Spar varnish takes about 24+ hours to totally dry...use in a Dust-Free garage/booth or you will get dust in it.
    You can use a couple tarps to set up a small staining booth inside a garage or room.
    Sand with 220-440 grit between coats...keeps it nice & smooth. I like to wet-sand right after a coat of varnish...
    helps keep it ultrasmooth...then the final coat I use 600-grit on after applying the varnish then let sit for 72 hrs.
    Then apply a coat of either Howard's Feed & Wax or Turtle Wax...It'll make it SWEET & prevent it from sticking in gun cases on hot days :D

    Downside of doing it this way...it takes TIME. But that's what days off are for ;)
    Upside...it'll be the best looking gun in your collection, and YOU did it yourself!! :D


    Or, if you are short on time & don't care..use a minwax stain & polyurethane...it'll take a weekend.
    Downside...the clearcoat will start to degrade after a few years of use...and you'll be doing it again within 10-15 years
    because the swelling/shrinking jacked up the Poly.
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2011
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