The Firearms Forum banner

Silver Bullet Gun Oil test..

115K views 293 replies 59 participants last post by  polishshooter 
#1 ·
First off I want to thank Shooter45 and jack404. This review would not be possible without them two.

I got the bottle a few days ago. First thing I noticed was it is more thick than the other oils I use. I broke down a few guns and cleaned them real good. I got a few Qtips and lubed the rails on the XD9 and the where the rails ride in the slide. First thing I noticed was it sticks and a very little bit will go a looooong way. Not much is needed to make a gun slick. At first the what I thought to be a gimic of the pig fat, seems to make the oil stick like no other. When I cooked bacon this morning and after the fat got cold it sticks to anything, even the teflon coated pan. I tell ya what folks, the pigfat makes the whatever is in the rest of that bottle stick! I put a light coat on the outside of the barrel of the XD9 where you get them rings of wear on the barrel. I shot it a bunch and got the gun hot. After it cooled down there was still a slick coating like I just put it on. The Walther P22 was where this oil came into its own. That gun requires a good lube to run. Even after a bunch of shooting and the wife dropping the locked back slide pistol into the dirt, the gun just kept on running no matterhow dirty the oil got. I have fired over 10,000 rounds through that gun and this is the best lube I used on it, PERIOD! Infact the gun still feels so slick I did not clean it. I want to see how much it will go before I need to clean that dirty little needs lube to run right pistol stops..

I even treated the bores and it seems to do no harm. Them pumkins will never make it to paradise now lol...

I even put a few drops down the barrel of my boys BB gun and put one of the warning stickers on the stock for him..

All in all it was a good day with the wife and boy shooting pumkins. We went on a hike in the rainforest up here in the pacNW after the shooting and it was nice.

Folks, you might think this stuff is a gimick. It is NOT! I have tested alot of lubes and the only thing I do not like about it is that if you want it on parts deep inside it will not spider down to them. You will need to take the gun apart and lube the part. When you do it will be lubed for a long time. It sticks and it lasts. My XD9 is more smooth than it ever was. My chicom Ithaca M37 also runs alot more slick with it. I never lube the G37 so I will never know what it could do for that. The best was the P22. I will never use another lube on that gun again. It IS that good.

Another thing I did was add some BBs to the bottle. The stuff needs a good shake and the BBs help mix it up faster and better.

The other 87% of the bottles contents is one hell of a weapons lube. The pigfat makes it stick. On top of that, it will go with me the next time I go to work in far off places. It will be in my rifles bore. I just wish I had it the last 2 times I was there. All my HD weapons right now are treated with it, better not be terrorist Muslim when I am home or out on the streets. I got my Force multiplier now........

I will get pics up later, wife has the camera and is out with the girls right now doing girl stuff... yuck.....

http://www.silverbulletgunoil.net/
 
See less See more
#227 ·
Youre awesome Boris. I think you have put this oil to the test better than anyone here. I was sold on it the first couple of weapons I tried it on and didnt see a need to test it further, but you have proven its superiority time and again and I appreciate it. Thanks Bro! :thumbsup:
 
#228 ·
I put it on my squeeky door back in December of last year. Still no squeek. Carbon just wipes off my work M4 now, cleaning is soooo much easier now with that rifle. The knobs on my Acog mount got some rust on them in the field a couple weeks ago. I put some SBGO on it and after a day of training I wiped off what was left and there was no rust anymore.

My goal is to try to find something it is not good for or make it fail. I wanted it to fail soooo bad from the day I got it. I might have to wait a looong time, but dang it I am trying my hardest.......
 
#230 ·
Boris i'm the same . its small part lube not just gun oil , and your right about the heat

i've one whinge if only a small one ,

oil the weapon

2-3 days later you shoot the thing a few times and get it warm

and theres more SBGO on it than i originally put there !! ( or so it seems )

now i hit the EAA with the hot air gun after oiling and wipe down again before putting away
 
#231 ·
I am sold on SBGO as a high performance lubricant, nothing beats it IMO. But the original bottles leave a little to be desired.. the paint flakes off and they leak, not a big issue but I suppose every great thing has at least 1 qualm right..

So I have been looking for suitable substitute bottles and I have found them. They are cheep on ebay and very useful.

I have a 32 oz machine oil bottle with a LUCAS oil cap with snap on lid. Holds a LOOOOOONG time supply of SBGO, I think a quart would literally last a busy gunsmith over a year. I keep this bottle in my weapons cleaning/maintenance box for use at the range or at the desk. I also use it to refill my small bottles of SBGO.

I ordered a 4 pack of LSA milsurp bottles, each holds a half ounce of SBGO, which is plenty to last several weeks at the least. the caps lock tight and dont leak, these bottle are great for a small range pak ro bag, or a basic firearms cleaning kit for the hunting field.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSA-WEAPONS...995?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f06441db3

Lastly, and my favorite are the 1.25 oz needle oilers I grabbed off ebay. These things rock. They dispense the perfect amount of SBGO right exactly where you want it to go. So precisely you can write with it..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pack-Micr...150666805128?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item231470ff88

As you can see I have less than 15 bucks invested in more bottles than I need and can re-use indefinitely..

I also use 32 cal lead muzzleloader balls for mixers in the bottles. The 32 oz bottle has a big 9/16 coarse threaded nut in it to mix the SBGO.

With these 'medically clean' oil bottles.. SBGO is PERFECT! :patriotic:
 

Attachments

#232 ·
JLA, you are right, it definately needs some better bottles. Mine is leaking everywhere and the paint flakes off. That's the only thing I can fault it on. I like the needle lid, except for long term storage. I would like them to come with a solid cap and a spare needle applicator. I may try to find some bottles to do that with myself.

I have used SBGO on several things already. Anything I dont want to rust gets a dose. I lubed up my bow release the other day. It's always been gritty and stiff like something was rusted or pitted and after putting that on there it is like glass. Good stuff.
 
#233 ·
and mine for my own use is from a old .303 brass oiler . and the latest lot i sent to afghanistan i sorted smaller , better bottles for the troops , though i do like JLA's twist top bottle , how good a deal is that one ?

JLA

that twist top bottle does it leak at all ? is it suitable for field use ?
 
#234 · (Edited)
I just got done looking at henna bottles. They come with a regular cap and then an applicator tip that you can put on. For my home use, that would be perfect. Only problem is the bottles are more expensive than I like.

I also found some 15 ml(I think that is 1 oz) bottles that would be cheap enough to order quite a few, but I like the needle applicator. It might be something for you to look into, though, Jack. I'll go ahead and give you the link. They are only about .31/bottle.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25040&catid=805
 
#235 ·
Those twist top bottles are vietnam era LSA (lubricant Small Arms) bottles i got off ebay. They do not leak, even when you turn em upside down and squeeze em. When you twist it closed theres a little plastic plug that the lid moves down over and plugs the hole, kinda like an over built Elmers school glue lid.
 
#236 ·
Those bottles are in CC (cubic centimeters) country. Medical measurements..

1 cc = 0.0338140227 US fluid ounces.

The 15 CC bottles would be about perfect, holding just over a half ounce of SBGO. And those applicators are like eye droppers. So with the cap they shouldnt leak.
 
#238 ·
I been away at work for a bit folks. Got back a couple days ago.

Anyway, I took my XD9 apart today and took a look at the spots I lubed on it with SBGO. The lube not only is still there, it is exactly where I put it on a third of a year ago and 300ish rounds ago. There is no need to wipe and relube yet.

All my other guns are still lubed up and rustfree. I even store two in full flap leather holsters that are known rust growing grounds. Neither has a spec of rust on them.

I have used it from -23F to 100F. Days long exposure to rain, dust, hunting, sunlight. Does not matter how or where you use it. It just is as simple as it is the best lube/protectant I have ever used.

Look forward to catching back up with y'all..........
I know the winters in Montana get colder but the SBGO will hold up and the weapon will still work smoothly.
 
#239 ·
I just took a bottle out of the freezer that has been in there since I read post#237 earlier today. It seems to flow the same as room temp SBGO.

Ill leave it over night and check it again after work tomorrow..
 
#241 ·
JLA , i put two peices of sheet metal together , one lot with a reputable brand and the other with SBGO , froze both for a day , the SBGO came apart no worries , the other did too... after a few taps , the more i play , the more i like it , only thing is it tastes bad

( i cut my finger on the sheet tapping the brand name one apart and so stuck the digit in my mouth , it had SBGO all over it )
 
#242 ·
I dont shoot my guns enough to use a lot of the SBGO( I know, priorities and finances are a bummer though.....), so I am finding all kinds of uses for it. Some of my tools that have rusted a bit have gotten a dose, I cleaned up some of my broadheads and dosed them with it, and all kinds of stuff. Still loving this stuff.
 
#245 · (Edited)
Beth ,

Clean your guns as normal

2-4 drops of SBGO on a gents shaving brush ( chinese one 50 cents ) and run that over the action and parts you want oiled .. i quick wipe down to remove excess when it's reassembled and your done

if you use a pull through , a drop on the cloth for the last pull will generally oil the bore nicely

next time you clean and oil add only 2 drops .. the brush will hold some ..
 
#248 ·
I got some more advice I don't think we talked about in this thread yet.

I been around some folks lately that love to use motor oil. It will lube in an emergency just fine but it should not be your go to lube.

Motor oils are 25% additives that are not oil. The detergent additives have polar and non polar ends to the molecule. Water will not attach to the oil, but it will attach to the detergents. What you get is separation and an oil water emulsion. The higher the quality of the oil the faster the detergents separate. It is not measured over a long period of time either. It is measured in the seconds.

Once the oil separates from the water these chemicals will get on your hands, clothes and body. We all know the chemicals in motor oil are not healthy and would not be good for prolonged contact with skin.

Motor oil is also designed for attracting dust dirt and anything that even gets near it adding to the separation problem.

Don't use motor oils on firearms folks. Its nothing but bad news for the firearm and even worse news for you if you come in contact with the separated additives.

Some good reads

http://reliabilityweb.com/index.php/articles/mixing_oil_and_water

http://www.maintenanceresources.com/referencelibrary/oilanalysis/oa-m.htm

http://www.ngv.com.my/default.asp?pageid=257&messageid=543&cac=0

Don't waste your time on motor oil. Use only the highest quality firearm lube you can get. Obviously I use SBGO. Been for a tad over a year now and nothing compares....
 
#249 ·
I havent checked this thread out in a while, and some awesome info and
input!
What did you do Josh, buy all the bottles the guy had on ebay?:lmao2:
(been a while back I see)

And the one's that Country posted on the link he had, looks to be
pretty good and a good price.

Ive been having the problems with the original bottle's as well, leaking
and etc. and have been looking for some other bottles to put the
sbgo in.
 
#250 ·
I just got done looking at henna bottles. They come with a regular cap and then an applicator tip that you can put on. For my home use, that would be perfect. Only problem is the bottles are more expensive than I like.

I also found some 15 ml(I think that is 1 oz) bottles that would be cheap enough to order quite a few, but I like the needle applicator. It might be something for you to look into, though, Jack. I'll go ahead and give you the link. They are only about .31/bottle.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25040&catid=805
Those bottles are in CC (cubic centimeters) country. Medical measurements..

1 cc = 0.0338140227 US fluid ounces.

The 15 CC bottles would be about perfect, holding just over a half ounce of SBGO. And those applicators are like eye droppers. So with the cap they shouldnt leak.
I ordered me some of the 15cc sized bottles and just got'em.
they work and good to have around in differnt places, range bag, shop and etc..they work real good!
 
#251 ·
I got some more advice I don't think we talked about in this thread yet.

I been around some folks lately that love to use motor oil. It will lube in an emergency just fine but it should not be your go to lube.

Motor oils are 25% additives that are not oil. The detergent additives have polar and non polar ends to the molecule. Water will not attach to the oil, but it will attach to the detergents. What you get is separation and an oil water emulsion. The higher the quality of the oil the faster the detergents separate. It is not measured over a long period of time either. It is measured in the seconds.

Once the oil separates from the water these chemicals will get on your hands, clothes and body. We all know the chemicals in motor oil are not healthy and would not be good for prolonged contact with skin.

Motor oil is also designed for attracting dust dirt and anything that even gets near it adding to the separation problem.

Don't use motor oils on firearms folks. Its nothing but bad news for the firearm and even worse news for you if you come in contact with the separated additives.

Some good reads

http://reliabilityweb.com/index.php/articles/mixing_oil_and_water

http://www.maintenanceresources.com/referencelibrary/oilanalysis/oa-m.htm

http://www.ngv.com.my/default.asp?pageid=257&messageid=543&cac=0

Don't waste your time on motor oil. Use only the highest quality firearm lube you can get. Obviously I use SBGO. Been for a tad over a year now and nothing compares....
Everytime I've seen someone recommend motor oil for firearms its been recommending 100% synthetic (such as Mobil 1) which I believe are all NON detergent. If not, there are many non detergent motor oils available. I have in the past used Mobil 1 on my AR10s and they ran perfect with no adverse effects.
BTW, what finally happened on the shotgun barrel test? No mention of it since the first page of this thread and two other oils were working as good as the SBGO.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top