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Silver Bullet Gun Oil test..

115K views 293 replies 59 participants last post by  polishshooter 
#1 ·
First off I want to thank Shooter45 and jack404. This review would not be possible without them two.

I got the bottle a few days ago. First thing I noticed was it is more thick than the other oils I use. I broke down a few guns and cleaned them real good. I got a few Qtips and lubed the rails on the XD9 and the where the rails ride in the slide. First thing I noticed was it sticks and a very little bit will go a looooong way. Not much is needed to make a gun slick. At first the what I thought to be a gimic of the pig fat, seems to make the oil stick like no other. When I cooked bacon this morning and after the fat got cold it sticks to anything, even the teflon coated pan. I tell ya what folks, the pigfat makes the whatever is in the rest of that bottle stick! I put a light coat on the outside of the barrel of the XD9 where you get them rings of wear on the barrel. I shot it a bunch and got the gun hot. After it cooled down there was still a slick coating like I just put it on. The Walther P22 was where this oil came into its own. That gun requires a good lube to run. Even after a bunch of shooting and the wife dropping the locked back slide pistol into the dirt, the gun just kept on running no matterhow dirty the oil got. I have fired over 10,000 rounds through that gun and this is the best lube I used on it, PERIOD! Infact the gun still feels so slick I did not clean it. I want to see how much it will go before I need to clean that dirty little needs lube to run right pistol stops..

I even treated the bores and it seems to do no harm. Them pumkins will never make it to paradise now lol...

I even put a few drops down the barrel of my boys BB gun and put one of the warning stickers on the stock for him..

All in all it was a good day with the wife and boy shooting pumkins. We went on a hike in the rainforest up here in the pacNW after the shooting and it was nice.

Folks, you might think this stuff is a gimick. It is NOT! I have tested alot of lubes and the only thing I do not like about it is that if you want it on parts deep inside it will not spider down to them. You will need to take the gun apart and lube the part. When you do it will be lubed for a long time. It sticks and it lasts. My XD9 is more smooth than it ever was. My chicom Ithaca M37 also runs alot more slick with it. I never lube the G37 so I will never know what it could do for that. The best was the P22. I will never use another lube on that gun again. It IS that good.

Another thing I did was add some BBs to the bottle. The stuff needs a good shake and the BBs help mix it up faster and better.

The other 87% of the bottles contents is one hell of a weapons lube. The pigfat makes it stick. On top of that, it will go with me the next time I go to work in far off places. It will be in my rifles bore. I just wish I had it the last 2 times I was there. All my HD weapons right now are treated with it, better not be terrorist Muslim when I am home or out on the streets. I got my Force multiplier now........

I will get pics up later, wife has the camera and is out with the girls right now doing girl stuff... yuck.....

http://www.silverbulletgunoil.net/
 
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#30 ·
Bobitis, if you do not add some BBs to help the mixing, then you will need to shake it a long time. Once it is all mixed and you put it on look out! This stuff is awesome!!

IT stays like a grease but lubes like an oil and protects metal like nothing I have ever seen. A little goes a loooong way. This bottle will last me a long time
 
#33 ·
I put a couple of drops on a shaving brush to coat my rifles and pistols. And yes, a little goes a long way.
I took my chicom M37 12 gauge copy out in the rain last week and took it all apart to let it dry out. Even though I had been handling the gun with bare hands in the rain all I had to do was wipe it down with a clean rag after it dried up. There is still oil on the surface, enough that I did not have put more on. It sticks and it keeps on working even after you give it a work out. I imagine a good parkerized finish will hold this oil forever and a day if it works on plain blued steel that good.......
 
#35 ·
Any particular kind of BB's? I have some copper plated steel bb's but no stainless.
I havnt used it yet on any guns but I did apply some SBGO to the ram on my Lee Pro 1000. I let go of the handle and it just drops down like magic. Tomorrow I will try it out on my 1911's.
 
#36 ·
I just put 5 or 6 of the zinc plated BBs for my sons BB gun in the bottle. It takes a bit before I hear them rattling around in there, but it mixes it up real good.

I put it on all the internal parts on my chicom Ithaca M37 and when I press the disconnector the slide falls all the way down.

Amazing product!!
 
#38 ·
TGC re arabic writing , i aint sure .. they went straight from the Boss of SBGO USA to you folks , I know what the arabic on mine say ;) if you can post a pic i can read it for you

he has a few "sayings" so far that i've seen
Smile Jack! You're on candid camera. Heres two different stickers with the same writing.
 

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#39 ·
Like Boris was saying about haveing a gun out in the rain, it works well. I had my rifle out in the down pouring rain the other day and it got a good soaking (SBGO first, then rain):D, came in and let it dry off a bit and wiped it down and it still had a "film", coat of the sbgo oil still left on it. It just stays on there! It is some good stuff.
 
G
#40 ·
Got it today Shooter.

Question to all the owners...

I don't have any bb's/shot/bearings, etc.
Hat else do you thiink I could use? I could pull the lead on some .22s or would a few small screws work?

Thanks Sam, I'll play with it over the weekend and report back.:D
 
#42 ·
Got it today Shooter.

Question to all the owners...

I don't have any bb's/shot/bearings, etc.
Hat else do you thiink I could use? I could pull the lead on some .22s or would a few small screws work?

Thanks Sam, I'll play with it over the weekend and report back.:D
I would use some galvanized screws before I used a lead pellet........
 
G
#44 ·
I would use some galvanized screws before I used a lead pellet........
Why?

I wasn't thinking of galvanized, as it's just a coating that can flake off. Zinc plated would be better, but then, it's still just a plating. Lead is lead, though it could also leave remnants in the mix. Machine screws should be protected by the lubricant. No?
 
#45 ·
Why?

I wasn't thinking of galvanized, as it's just a coating that can flake off. Zinc plated would be better, but then, it's still just a plating. Lead is lead, though it could also leave remnants in the mix. Machine screws should be protected by the lubricant. No?
I guess you would be good to go with plain ole steel ones too lol. Dunno how it would react to the copper in a brass screw though........
 
#47 ·
Don't mean to hijack anybody's conversation, but, decided not to wait. Just ordered a bottle.
I probably would have never bought a bottle to be honest. Jack404 and Shooter45 are owed by me big time.

The stuff is worth it. Just make sure you either shake it for a loooong time or add something to it to shake around. Once it is mixed up real good and you use it, the other stuff you have will be retired real fast......
 
#48 ·
Mate no thanks needed this way Thank the forum and its bosses for allowing this to happen, and to the memebrs who put it to a decent test ( thats important!!!!) a lot of places would not allow it due to sponsors or "PC ness" etc

I am very happy that other feel the same about the product , yes i sell it , but all i make out of it goes to supplying Aussie troops with the product and a tad on the side for folks who help all our troops ..

so Thanks Again TFF !!
 
#49 ·
Why?

I wasn't thinking of galvanized, as it's just a coating that can flake off. Zinc plated would be better, but then, it's still just a plating. Lead is lead, though it could also leave remnants in the mix. Machine screws should be protected by the lubricant. No?
Bob, try a small section of a wire coathanger to stir. Then wipe the coat hanger on a soft cloth and wipe down the weapon. No waste. :)

I am also very impressed with this product. I put some nuts and bolts in a bucket of water for a couple of days. Took them out, guess what. No rust. Now I know it wasn't a long test but the oil remaining on the nuts and bolts says something for the effectiveness of the product.
It takes a lot of shaking to mix properly, BUT, it protects my expensive weapons so it's worth it.
 
#50 ·
Shooter45

I got the original application still on the XD and it is all right where I put it. Even after 500ish rounds it is doing great. Today I tested it at -23F.

Gun didn't miss a beat. I can wait to do some 100+F tests, but when I do I will let ya know how it does. Might be a good minute before I do though...
 
#51 ·
Boris, may want to wipe it down before you do , one thing i noticed here this winter, oiled and wiped down the flinter and when the weather got hot again it seemed a lot more oil on it than i left , did so with the witness too , so tryed it again ( fully oil free a light wipe down and placed in warm place , seems it do get thinner with heat not a lot but enough to notice the excess ..
 
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