Springfield/Stevens side by side 12 Ga.

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by ShawnDow, Sep 26, 2012.

  1. nmckenzie

    nmckenzie Well-Known Member

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    Shawn:

    Elmer's wood glue is great stuff: I even used it in constructing the deer hoist contraption we've got down in the garage, but for a really thin bearing surfaces such as the side of the stock, AcraGlas is really the only way to go - leastways in my experience. Just a thought on clearing out the residue of someone else's glue attempt, try to get as much of it as you can - widen the crack ever-so-slightly with a single edged razor and use dental picks to probe and clear out, because any that remains is a potential weak spot. Once you're satisfied with the results, blast the opened crack with a drying agent - carb cleaner perhaps, let it dry thoroughly, then go in with the AcraGlas. It comes in both a liquid and gel, but for your purposes I think the liquid would be best. Tape off areas above and below the crack(s), and fill the opened crack (neatness doesn't count at this stage). For stabilizing purposes it'd probably be best if you put the stock onto the receiver (no internal parts installed yet), hand tightened the tang screw, and wrap the stock's wrist with surgical tubing. Having the stock in the position it's supposed to be in while setting up will (should) prevent any movement of wood on one side of the crack relative to wood on the other side. What's to prevent you from gluing the stock to the action? The Release Agent that comes with the AcraGlas kit, with which you will have bathed the receiver before hand. Where's AcraGlas come from? Any number of places - Amazon etc., but Brownell's is probably your best bet for having it on hand and quickly shipped. Once the repair's thoroughly cured you'll want to go in with the stock repair screws. They're not very wide, and the resulting brass colored dot on the stock's surface is really tiny. Something I learned from repairing the stock of my 16 gauge 1915; there's very little space between the receiver's internal moving parts - sears etc. - and the stock's internal surface, so make sure there's no glass residue left on the inside for a sear to bash.

    Spudz
  2. nmckenzie

    nmckenzie Well-Known Member

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    p.s. to previous:

    Bob's Gun Parts (www.gun-part.com/savagestocks/) does have replacement buttstocks and forends. True, they'll require a bit of fitting, as well as outside finishing and such, but at least you have a fallback position.
  3. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    As much as I would like to put new lumber on this SxS.. the S.N. on the fore-grip matches the gun..
    Speaking of S.N.'s.. how old would this thing be if it has a S.N.? I thought those weren't required until the 60's... and if Steven's dropped the Springfield name in the mid 40's?.. what do I have?
    Any way... I still owe this guy 100 for a trade of services/SKS deal we had... And Im looking at an easy $50 in parts that are missing.... and this rust bluing has eaten about 50-75 of the 100... Im passing on the new timber!
    I think by the time I'm done.. I'll be in the clear! The things I do for a battle rifle... Too bad it wasn't an M1!.. oh wait.. Id be in debt for the next 2 lifetimes.
    Ill start cleaning out the old glue from the previous repair tomorrow... need to get my dental pics from my other job (the one that pays the bills and for my gun fixing/ cleaning/ bluing hobby).
  4. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    Holly sugar... my heart stopped when I saw how much AcraGlas is.. I hope King Midas touches this SxS when Im done!
  5. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    Can I use that epoxy to fill in the stripped screw holes for the forearm grip and butt plate? Assuming I put said release agent on the screws.
  6. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    +1 with becoming a gunsmith.. Looked into the AGI courses... I like it.. just need to save up.. Although I did sign up for the mini tutorials they had... and if the main courses are just as good.. Ill be hooked.
    Im seriously considering giving up aircraft MX for this hobby that is consuming me!
  7. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Stripped screw holes in wood can be repaired with wooden dowel and wood glue. just dab some glue in there, drive a glued dowel in and break it off flush and let it set up. Stripped metal screw holes need to be welded up and re D/T.

    I have had good results with gorilla glue on cracked stocks. so long as you can get the glue down into the crack a good ways. Then just clamp it solid and let the glue cure.
  8. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    New Question... while looking up parts for this project..(I'm going by the info you guys gave me of being a model 315... ish.. and in the schematics... they list a cocking lever.. Now I have seen a picture on this forum where its suppose to go.. I don't have a provision to accept this "hook"
    http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=93316&highlight=cocking hook
    Now... do some other "manufacturer" lines based on the same "model" possibly have different components? I dont want to find out I order a safety "slide lever" and get the wrong one..
  9. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Thats what youre up against with these old doubles. Sometimes you just order parts and hope they are right, and if they arent make sure you ordered them from a supplier you can return them to.
  10. nmckenzie

    nmckenzie Well-Known Member

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    My 16 guage is in the X73000 range, and the original owner bought it before WW2. Looked up Springfield Arms Company Model 1915 Shotgun on Google some years back, and the site I landed on said the series was manufactured between 1915 and 1940. Just where yours or mine would fall in that range I can't say, but there are Savage collectors groups that probably could. As to serial numbers in general, it's not so much that many lower end (Sears, Montgomery Ward etc.) .22s and shotguns didn't have them prior to '68, but rather that after '68 they were required to have them. My little Winchester Model '04a single shot, with which my grandfather, father, and eventually myself learned to shoot, doesn't have a serial number. This made for some interesting conversation when we had to stop at Customs and get a Canadian Firearms Permit when driving to Prince Rupert, Canada (where we'd catch the ferry to Sitka) from northern Idaho.

    Spudz
  11. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    JLA.. got ya! I almost mis-read your post.. oops.. I dont have stripped metal.. thanks be to the makers.. just the wood.. it kinda holds the screws.. I assume a hard wood dowel would be best..
  12. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    I believe that series of doubles cocked when you levered the barrel latch open. Which is why that lever is so much larger than a normal one.
  13. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Either or. I use the cheap dowels you buy at walmart, toothpicks, shishkebob sticks and corn skewers. they all work great and the glue makes the hole less likely to strip out again.
  14. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    Have I told you guys, that you are great? I thank you all for your input!
  15. nmckenzie

    nmckenzie Well-Known Member

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    The cocking lever is that Y shaped thingie shown in several of your photos. In the last photo of post 28 it's sitting there with the two mainsprings and mainspring plungers resting against it.
  16. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    Spudz, your correct... and it looks like the underside, at rear of the barrel has a 3/8 inch dia. pin that will pivot that "Y" shaped "thingie" as the barrel pivots breach up or muzzle down.. ketchup/catsup.. And it looks like there isn't a provision for the "cocking hook" on this particular sub model. Also there is also a spent shell push rod that is suppose to push back as the barrels tilt.. but I think a little something is missing at the rear of the fore grip frame that pushes the "extractor" Need to order that!
    And JLA.. I think that lever is so massive as to over come the gigantic spring that returns the lever to the "fort Knox" locked position... Holly cow thats a tight spring!
    Again, thanks!
  17. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    O.K. guys....
    The "clean up" is done... cleaned the barrels, rust blued..grey.. what ever.. I even did the internals... I'm holding off on the stock... its suppose to be a "wall trophy". I know the recoil pad is NOT original... more on that later

    So. I took it to the range today, to function test it... lets just say.. I'm glad that recoil pad was there... both tubes fired together. Felt like a .243 break action actually.

    Any way... When the SXS is empty, locked, and cocked.. it takes about 7 pounds to pull each trigger... and they will release one at a time... regardless of which is pulled first. Now, Why did I get both tubes to fire at once?

    The only thing I can think of (besides this being old) is that the spring that holds the sears in the "engaged" position is slipping out of the groove in the tang that keeps tension on the spring... the stock helps keep the spring in this groove. And the stock is gapped near that area on the tang.

    Whats your thoughts?
    Shawn

    Attached Files:

  18. Randy Bowers

    Randy Bowers New Member

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    Bought a mod. 311 a few months ago and it did the same thing, took the hide off my finger with the trigger guard, it's back in the shop now, will see what happens. And yes, it was quite a surprise....
  19. bntyhntr6975

    bntyhntr6975 Member

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    Lookin good. Ive always liked the older Stevens doubles. Have a .410 311a, 12g 311a, and a Springfield 5100 12g (with wide open 19" barreals). They were built to last, thats for sure.
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