Staining question

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by PharmrJohn, Aug 8, 2009.

  1. PharmrJohn

    PharmrJohn New Member

    Jun 15, 2009
    Western Washington
    I am getting my boy and I our first .22 rifle. The obligatory Marlin-60. It is used and needs some work on the wood. So I want to sand it down and re-stain it. The sanding part is easy. No problem. But what kind of stain do I use? Any suggestions?
  2. kingchip

    kingchip New Member

    Jul 2, 2009
    Marble Falls, Texas
    Man, I would just strip it and then tung oil it. I do that with all of my rifles. I just like the look. I don't do shiny.

  3. artabr

    artabr New Member

    Last edited: Aug 8, 2009
  4. swanshot

    swanshot Active Member

    Yeah, I would go with this advice. If it's a nice piece of wood, or you want to do a really good job of it, you can go the whole oil finish.
    Oil finish is time consuming, but not difficult.
    If you want to go with a stain, it depends what the wood is. Chances are it's beech, or ash. If so then a walnut stain is as good as any.
  5. pawn

    pawn Active Member

    Jan 31, 2007
    Crossville, TN

    Unless the stock is in horrible shape, just rub it down with a stripping agent. Then stain as you like and finish it off with tung oil. I would go with about 5 coats. Apply tung oil, allow it to dry, lightly scrub it with 000 steel wool, then rub all surface areas with a tack cloth to remove the residue. Repeat with the next application of tung oil. Do this as many times as you like. :)

  6. Tom Militano

    Tom Militano New Member

    Feb 26, 2007
    Jacksonville, AL
    I'll go along with everybody else on this, don't sand it down, strip it if your have to refinish the stock.
  7. +1 strip it.

    When I was a kid, I made the mistake of sanding a Springfield rifle stock. By the time I got it even, I'd removed so much wood that the butt plate was too big etc etc, changed the feel of the forearm etc.

    I wish I'd of been given the advice given on here so far.

    I'd add this option too. It sounds cheesy, but Minwax has a finish stain called Gunstock #231. It actually really does, with several coats, leave an old school dark red-ish Winchester looking stain.
  8. Suicide*Ride

    Suicide*Ride New Member

    Apr 6, 2009
    Golden, Colorado
    While I agree w/ everyone's advice, I'd like to add my own.

    I once bought a sad excuse for a shotgun from a co-worker. A Stevens 311B 12ga SxS that had spent most of it's life behind the seat of a pickup for roughly 25yrs., along w/a tool box, tow chain, rusty tire chains (snow), jumper cables, etc.

    Needless to say the stock had more than a few dents & sanding didn't rid the wood of the worst damage, so after staining w/ dark walnut I tried some satin urethane. Steel wool between coats & WOW! Some wood looks better just stained, but once in a while a thick clear coat really brings out the grain that would otherwise go unnoticed.

    I've seen some furniture that looked awesome plain (dark walnut, cherry, etc) but sometimes the wood is dirt cheap, like some of the junk that can be found on walmart specials or has severe damage & warrants the need for a clear coating. The stock on the Stevens was very cheap & pretty soft wood so the urethane added extra protection from nicks & dings.

    John, just remember that I said satin finish & not gloss! If you really want to see the finish I'm talking about, let me know & I'll take & post some pictures of how it turned out. The urethane coating was an extra pain, but worth the trouble. I don't regret spending the time saving that old shottie.... it is a point & shoot clay pigeon buster from he**!! ;) :D:D:D

    SR :)
  9. PharmrJohn

    PharmrJohn New Member

    Jun 15, 2009
    Western Washington
    Hey, thanks guys......this is going to look good.
  10. TheGunClinger

    TheGunClinger Well-Known Member Supporting Member

    I agree with the strip it, light sand and tung oil.
  11. topper

    topper New Member

    Aug 2, 2006
    deep in the woods
    i done my marlin 60 by sanding throughly to the bare wood (original finish was crappy) and applied 10 seperate coats of hand rubbed boiled linseed oil. each cost must dry 24 hours and very very lightly sand and apply another coat. a lot of work, but makes a very nice finish you can be proud of. and linseed oil is cheaper than most other finishes. use only BOILED LINSEED OIL, it dries much faster than regular type.

    Keep the chamber fully loaded!
  12. 45nut

    45nut Well-Known Member

    Jul 19, 2006
    Dallas, TX
    This really works and looks good. :D
  13. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    I apply stain to gunstocks with a sponge. I used to use a cloth, then some one said a sponge was better, and it is so. Work quickly and evenly.
  14. Bobitis

    Bobitis Guest

    I'm with topper on this one.
    I've heard lotsa good stuff on tung oil, but never tried it.
    I've done a lot of wood with linsead oil, and its always turned out beautiful.
    As he said, 'boiled' and hand rubbed. Hand rubbed is VERY important. The heat from the rubbing conveys the oil into the grain of the wood, thereby bringing out its character. If done properly, your hands will get cramps in them. It's serious work that's well worth the results.
  15. Yeah it does. I have some Winchester-colored cedar furniture in the bedroom thanks to it.;)
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