stuck case

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by Road America, Jun 29, 2012.

  1. Road America

    Road America Member

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    I managed to rip a .222 case in half inside my nice Redding sizing die. The top half is stuck in there (of course). Any ideas on getting it out without wrecking the die, or should I just buy a new one.
    Those cases had been fired a LOT of times (too many I guess) in my Ruger #1. I tossed the whole mess of them out now, but I was one pull of the handle too late!
    Jim S.
  2. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    not familiar with that die.. but if it has a removeable decapper.. take that out and see if you can get a tap in there to bite into the case innards and yank it out
  3. Alpo

    Alpo Well-Known Member

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    You say you "ripped it in half". Is that true, or just annoyed writing? If you pulled the shellholder through the rim, so there is no way to get hold of the case, but the actual head of the cartridge (with the primer pocket and flash hole, etc) is still there, they make "stuck case removers", which will take that case out.

    If you did, in fact, "rip it in half", so that the neck and shoulder section is stuck up there, and the bottom of the case and the head are not in the die, then I believe you are hosed, and the only solution is another sizing die.
  4. Road America

    Road America Member

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    yup, it's ripped in half - only the upper half is in there. The part that came out looked like a 9mm pistol case.
  5. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    use a point nose oring pick.. poke in there and pry up a lip an bend it up and work around. that brass sounds soft adn thin if it ripped.. you should be able to peel it out.
  6. Skipper

    Skipper Active Member

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    Shoot some Kroil in there and use an oversized bronze brush to pull it out.
  7. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    as a last option setup an electrolysis bath.. make the die the work pice / negative.. use a 6v 2a bat charger.. use sodium carbonate as the electrolyte.. put a copper wire into the bath and hook + clamp to that as the anode... cook a bit. iron will not be harmed. but don't do this if a stainless or chromed die..

    brass and aluminum and copper on the work piece will be eroded.. should flake and become brittle.

    I imaging you could also drop the die in a glass of amonia for a week and damage the brass that way too.

    ps.. if you take the decapper out.. do you have access to the bottlenecked top of the case? perhaps something you could slip a dowel into to tap on.. after penetrant oiling of course?

    might also boil a pot of water and drop it in and fish it out and hit it with the dowell.. the die will have a different thermal propertry than the brass and shrinkage and expansion forces should help free it up ditto with a propane / butane torch with a pencil tip.. just be carefull.

    go at it with the idea the die is a loss.. but use techniques that will not mar the die walls, but will degrade brass or copper or tin.. and thus soften or embrittle the case to make it easier to remove. I restore antique tractors and routinely have to remove stuck fasteners, sleaves and bushings without maring parent bore.. some similar tricks to theis

    good luck
  8. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    2 other thoughts hit me... if you again, have access to the top bottleneck.. get a 10d or similar nail.. crush the top in a bit.. grind nail head to fit into die if needed.. push nail down thru case mouth so that head bottoms against top of crushed case.. not try to yank out the bottom some mre.

    lastly.. another long shot.. take some 1/4" copper tube.. tin the top 1/4" using that pencil torch flux and tin the inside of the brass a bit. be carefull.. don't tin the die :)

    stick pipe up in there and hit it with the heat thru the top. ideally you are soldering the pipe to the innards of the shell up near the shoulder and not anywhere near the ripepd portion and the die. now let it cool a bit and start gently work that copper pipe.. the heat and whatnot should break it free..


    post back
  9. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

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    Lot of interesting ideas; especially from soundguy. One of them should work.
  10. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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    Before you go poking, prying and spraying lube in there, put it in the freezer. Let it sit until it is good and frozen, the case should come out with relatively little effort.
  11. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    here's another one on that idea.. soak the die in water a few minutes.. now freeze for a couple hours.. then allow to warrm up.

    cap action will draw water between case and die.. then as fereezing it will expand and shrik brass.. then it will fall out once melted..
  12. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

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    RoadAmerica let us know what worked for you.

    P.S. There is almost a 2X difference in the thermal expansion/contraction properties of steel and cartridge brass. I would try post #10 with an oversize bronze brush, first, and #11, second; if necessary.
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2012
  13. ozo

    ozo Well-Known Member

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    Alpo...what's up with you lately ?????
    "Is that true, or just annoyed writing?"--alpo

    Your sarcasm is negative and far from wit.
    Please refrain if wish to slam and criticize.....
    this is a family channel....geez

    Newcombers here will run to somewhere else if they
    see you post in this manner....it is a 'borderline' attack
    in the least. Seems frequent, from you, these days.....
    Disgusted....
  14. CCHolderinMaine

    CCHolderinMaine Well-Known Member

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    Of all, I say try this first....
  15. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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    Did you get it out? If so, How?
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