Tech Tip - Winchester Model 100

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by CountryGunsmith, Feb 24, 2003.

  1. AntiqueDr
    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 2961
    (8/9/02 6:42:24 pm)
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    Winchester Model 100
    These were sleek little rifles that can shoot really well, but they have a couple of problems inherent to the model that should be avoided.

    We all know that 100's are subject to a recall. The recall involves the firing pin breaking within the bolt causing the pin to protrude from the bolt face. A slam fire (before the bolt goes into battery) can occur. To determine if a particular rifle has had the recall work performed, the bolt should be disassembled. If the firing pin is square in cross section, it is a post-recall part. This recall work is still being done by Winchester authorized repair centers.

    The problem is one I recently encountered on a customer gun. It was locked closed (on an empty chamber). Took some finigglin' and cussin' to get it apart. The trigger housing unit on this rifle dovetails into a slot at the front of the receiver. The rear of the trigger housing unit is screwed up into the recoil block. As these guns wear, they develop slop in the dovetail on the front of the receiver. If the rear guard screw is allowed to loosen, even 1 turn, the rear of the trigger group can drop down far enough to allow the bolt assembly to fail to cock the hammer on rearward travel. The bolt then returns forward, but now riding on top of the uncocked hammer which jams it tighter than a duck's butt at high tide.

    Most of the time, simply keeping the rear guard screw tight (Loc-Tite) works fine. The front dovetail could be peened and/or built-up and recut on extreme cases.

    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    Master Dealer for Kimber, Wilson Combat and Dan Wesson

    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 876
    (8/9/02 6:54:41 pm)
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    I didn't know that!
    "Keep Off The Ridgeline"

    V.I.P. Member
    Posts: 96
    (8/9/02 7:59:19 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Winchester Model 100
    I think we can safely say that the Winchester Model 100 was not designed by John Moses Browning! Ol' John

    V.I.P. Member
    Posts: 165
    (8/13/02 6:39:05 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Winchester Model 100
    I always liked the 100. I can't understand why Winchester ever let that line go and let Remington have the semi-auto market. I think it was a big mistake on their part. I'm surprised that they never reintroduced them.

    They handled a lot better than the 742's and although not lighter, they seemed so. As far as I'm concerned, the 742 series handled like clubs. Lousy balance.

    They 100's had some problems jamming, but most of what I found was faulty clips and poor cleaning.

    I had one at one time that I cut the barrel at 21" and I couldn't beleive how it shot after that. It could drive tacks. I sold it and as far as I know it's still floating around this part of the country. (Maybe I should try to buy it again). I've heard that at times if you cut a barrel at a certain point, it can become super accurate. I guess that's where the concept of the Boss comes in. It tweaks the barrel at a certain point of the whip.

    Any comments on this?

    Edited by: bullelk at: 8/13/02 7:41:03 pm

    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 2969
    (8/14/02 12:22:28 am)
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    Re: Winchester Model 100
    Winchester discontinued the 100 for purely economic reasons. The gun was considerly more expensive to produce than Remington's 740/742 and they were getting hammered on price point.

    A lot of a barrel's accuracy is attributed to its 'harmonics,' or how the barrel flexes during firing. To oversimplify, a barrel of a given thickness has an ideal length where everything is 'right.'

    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    Master Dealer for Kimber, Wilson Combat and Dan Wesson
  2. Basic Black

    Basic Black New Member

    Oct 26, 2006
    New to this forum so pls bear with me. I have a Mdl 100 bought in the early 60's that has been in storage. My problem is that the bolt is now stuck closed. What happened is that "we" tried to check the operation and inserted a empty caseing in to the breach. Now the bolt will not retract, the trigger will not work and the safety is stuck. Any suggestions as to how I should go about fixing this.
    Basic Black

  3. Welcome Basic
    Have you tried inserting something into the barrel and tapping the casing?
  4. polishshooter

    polishshooter Well-Known Member

    Mar 25, 2001
    Too bad AntiqueDoc still isn't around, that sounds JUST like the problem he described up top years ago....That might work, Southern, but the PROBLEM is getting a rod or dowel that is that narrow enough but still take the rapping of a hammer, and NOT bugger up the rifling...

    I have a BEAUTIFUL wartime M44 action that I bought as a "parts gun" for $10 that somebody stuck a jacketed soft point in the barrel near the breach (I never figured out HOW, I kind of think some numbnuts was trying to hammer it in from the OTHER end trying to slug measure the bore size???? With an oversized JACKETED bullet???) They took the steel cleaning rod and tried to drive it out backwards when it stuck, and only managed to drive the threads of the rod into the soft point, and then drove the rod in deeper than the muzzle and STUCK it:mad: and it looks like quite a few "bubbas" tried their hands at driving the rod out since, peening the rod into the rifling, and buggerring it up....:mad:

    I finally cut the last 1" off the barrel, and got the rod out, then used a LONGER rod to drive it out, I'm still wondering if I can salvage it....but I figure saving the rod was worth $10, so I'm even....:D
  5. Basic Black

    Basic Black New Member

    Oct 26, 2006
    Tks Southernshooter. Would you try using an aluminum cleaning rod or would a piece of wood dowling be better? Really do not want to screwup my dad's 100, it means a lot to me.
  6. stash247

    stash247 New Member

    Oct 18, 2003
    Central Texas
    Black, a solid piece of brass rod, as big as will fit in the bore without binding, and a bit of penetrant, like 'Kroil', would be my first attempt; the rod should be only a couple of inches longer than the barrel, and flat on both ends.
    Pour a tablespoon of the penetrant dowh the bore, from the muzzle, and keep the muzzle elevated, for 12 hours or so, before proceeding to attempt to drive out the case, with the rod. If it's simply a stuck case, because of the case having been fired in a different chamber, it will be a walk in the park. The clost fit of the barrel keeps the brass from feexing as you tap on the rod, getting every bit of force to the head of the case; the brass won't harm the bore in any way.
    Re read the thread starters original post, if it does not come out and open after six or seven whacks; could be, it's not a stuck case tying up the rifle.
    Good luck!
  7. Basic Black

    Basic Black New Member

    Oct 26, 2006
    Stash247, Tks for the advise. I will try your suggestions this weekend while I am away hunting and let you know how I have made out. By the way, the replies on this forum are quite a bit better and with no sarcasim, which is opposite to the other forum's that I am a member of. Again Thanks .. Black
  8. polishshooter

    polishshooter Well-Known Member

    Mar 25, 2001
    Oh don't worry, Black, stick around for a while and you'll see PLENTY of sarcasm....:cool:

    We just wait until we know you better and you're a member of the "family," THEN we get vicious:D :D :D

    But don't worry, you aren't the ONLY person who has noticed it, in fact, this forum was started 5 or 6 years ago just FOR that reason, a handful of people that knew and respected each other from one of "those" forums where EVERY thread eventually got into pee-up-the-wall contest, "I know better than you," name calling, with trolls always lurking in the wings waiting to pounce:mad: ....

    We all vowed THIS place would be different, and it IS...and all the mods and admin try to keep it that way...

    We get into MANY "hot disagreements," we just try to do it with a LITTLE restraint and class.....and USUALLY succeed....:p

    But thanks for the comment just the same, we try!

    LIKTOSHOOT Advanced Senior Member

    Apr 26, 2001
    I sugest you re-read Doc`s advice. (and I will add this---if anyone out there owns the .308 version-I`m sorry, this was the black sheep of this run)

    What has more than likely happened is what Doc has described.
    The hammer has followed the bolt forward, the hammer now is wedged behind the bolt holding it closed -think of this like a wedge driven in from behind. Getting it out of a sealed action.

    Whacking it ain`t gonna work unless you hit it hard enough to break the hammer and anything else connected to that area.

    Yo uhave got to get the receiver loosened up or trouble will be your last concern after something inside snaps after you whack it!!

  10. arctic338

    arctic338 New Member

    Oct 29, 2006
    Barrow, Alaska
    We had the problem Doc mentioned on my Dad's 100 last fall. As Doc said it takes a lot of finiggilin to get it apart but we finally made it. Don't think I would start banging on it. Once you get it apart check the firing pin spring also. Good luck, they are great guns!
  11. Basic Black

    Basic Black New Member

    Oct 26, 2006
    Tks to every one for their suggestions. I used an Aluminum cleaning rod and insterted it in the barrel, then while pressing down on the bolt/lever I tapped the rod with a hammer. Lo and behold, the caseing popped out. No damage done. Again Tks to everyone. BB
  12. zrk.shortmag@gmail.c

    zrk.shortmag@gmail.c New Member

    Nov 22, 2008
    how does a person fix the mag jamming problem
  13. Mayor Al

    Mayor Al New Member

    May 8, 2011
    Southern Indiana
    Today, May 8, we had the same issue with a Model 100 (308) that is described above. We hand-inserted a laser boresight device shaped like a cartridge case but of lite-aluminum. When the bolt closed on it it jammed, Bigtime !!. We finally used a cleaning rod down the bore and hammered it pretty damn hard, while pushing on the operating rod to clear the jam. This did work, but it destroyed the Bore-sight device. I will get another, but I will be careful to load it and keep the empty mag in the gun to prevent the bolt from closing on the chamber during the boresight exercise.

    Is there any history of the Model 100 doing this to regular ammo? or is it just with the empty case or irregular stuff like the bore-sighter???

    Any other feedback on use of the Model 100 in 308 for Texas Hog Hunts. This will be my first Hog Hunt, and the gun is new to me. Thanks for any and all feedback.
    Mayor Al
  14. jhawk

    jhawk New Member

    May 15, 2011
    I've had a 100 for some time now, and have never had it jam on factory stuff. The problem with ammo jamming usually involves reloads of once fired brass that isn't properly full length sized. A semi-auto just doesn't have the camming strength of a bolt gun to yank those tight fitting or too hot loads out of the chamber.
    But to be safe, check the items mentioned by Antique Dr regarding the action screws.
    As to the hog loads: whatever shoots best in your gun. Despite what you may have heard, hogs (even Texas porkers) aren't cape buffalo. Core-lokts will work in .308. But if you are willing to pay the "insurance", you can't beat Barnes Triple Shox in Federal Premium. Just be sure to test them in your rifle before the hunt.
  15. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

    Dec 6, 2009
    Many rifles will jam if closed on a fired case, especially one that was not fired in that rifle. The case swelled when fired, and then jams when forced into the chamber. It doesn't happen with unfired cases or when firing. It is just bad luck that the boresighter was the right (or wrong) size and jammed in the chamber. A little light oil on it might have helped prevent the problem.

    When loading for any semi-auto, you should full length resize and use the special sizing dies that are a bit smaller than the standard.

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