the ugly duckling...........help please

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by old semperfi, Dec 10, 2011.

  1. old semperfi

    old semperfi Active Member

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    i live in southern indiana,old country boy at hear
    i just bought another firearm,it is probably the best deal i ever made,and the worst rifle i ever purchased.its a thompson hawken 50 cal percussion.the gun was i think a kit gun put together by a three year old or someone newly blind. to say the gun was mistreated is an understatement,i paid only twenty dollars.i have refinished many guns before but this one has the side plate even on one side and too far inletted on the other.the difference from one side to the other is close to one quarter inch,the barrell is inletted at the tang also close to a quarter inch if not more.what i need is what to use as a filler that can be filed or sanded fairly easily.my thoughts are jb weld,fiberglass,or possibly wood putty,any idea what i need.the gun as is looks like it was stored in an active flue pipe on a wood stove and then put in the bottom of a lake for a few months to cool down.keep in mind that the stock has been oil soaked and i will remove as much as possible to get a clean dry surface.i must also reblue the barrell and ideas on that. old semperfi
  2. Hawg

    Hawg Well-Known Member

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    Acraglas on the wood. Have the barrel professionally reblued
  3. AL MOUNT

    AL MOUNT Active Member

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    Cleaning my Thompson in The Foothills of the Ozark
    Make a lamp outta it... :D
  4. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    wood putty needs support as its too brittle

    Acraglas is way better ,

    JB ?? its good but on wood? it can go funny if the woods not sealed , i think ( unsure) the solvent bleed into the wood so it dont set right ..

    here i use a two part epoxy but your then time limited to get in in place before it set's , but then you can sand it drill it and even tap it ( though i prefer to inset a threaded tube to fit the screw if i need a screw and that screw will be removed occasionally)

    good luck eh

    the Birchwood casey blue kits are brilliant now days , lots of work but it is rewarded

    it's the first time i've had tank quality finishes from a store kit , i'm doing a LE jungle carbine at the moment with one , 4-5 years ago i'd never have got a store bluing kit , but the new formula , heck swallow old time pride its cheap and works well if you do the need preparation
  5. Diamondback

    Diamondback Well-Known Member

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    2nd the acraglass. Permanenet solid , can be drilled, sanded. Be sure to use the release agent on all metal parts. Real bummer to remove once it sets.
  6. old semperfi

    old semperfi Active Member

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    i live in southern indiana,old country boy at hear
    where can i get the acraglass and release agent,i chked midway and they dont carry it. old semperfi
  7. Inthewind1976

    Inthewind1976 Member

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    Brownells, or most any neighborhood gun shop - not sure about the "chain giants" like Dicks or Dunhams. Acraglass is the way to go. Ive used it quite a few times - it works as an epoxy if you are gluing and pinning a cracked stock, and its fantastic for bedding the recoil area of a bolt action for accuracy. Its really just a two part epoxy, which frankly, is all that JB is too. But Acraglass was pretty much designed to be used for firearms, and especially wood stocks. It also works very well when bedding an action to a synthetic stock. I usually put two or three coats of the release agent on any parts that will contact the epoxy, but that you dont want to permanently glue together. Let the release agent dry for a little between coats. I have seen one mauser rifle that was glassed to a synthetic WITHOUT the release agent. An old time gunsmith DID manage to get the metal outta the plastic, but the stock looked like someone used a hatched to get it out; lol. Its one hell of a permanent bond.
  8. StoneChimney

    StoneChimney New Member

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    Best way to separate a barreled action that has been Acraglassed without release agent is to freeze the hell out of it. Have fixed a couple of customer DIY's like that.
  9. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

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    Make sure to use the release agent and you won't have a problem.

    But, for the problems you describe, I would not bed the parts into the Acraglas, I would put it into the holes, let it harden, and then rout it out with a Dremel tool to the right size and depth, drilling where needed. (Use a mask, latex gloves and goggles and good ventilation to keep fiberglas particles away from your face and skin.) That way you don't take a chance of getting Acraglas into the lock parts or screw holes.

    Jim
  10. swiftman

    swiftman Member

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011
  11. okie headhunter

    okie headhunter New Member

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    i use paste wax. johnsons makes it for wood floors. i could how shoe polish would work.

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