Trigger work???

Discussion in 'Centerfire Pistols & Revolvers' started by tom vito, Nov 7, 2005.

  1. tom vito

    tom vito New Member

    Nov 1, 2005
    Hi all,

    I'm new her, but have been around firearms since I was about 5, now I'm 35. I have a very cheap Talon Industries 9mm, the company is no longer in business, and I need to lighten up the trigger pull. Right now it must be about 20 lbs., much to heavy for an accurate shooting. Now I would assume that I would need a lighter spring, but what else would I need to look for or do?

    I have a full machine shop, and lots of mechanical ability, I just need pointed in the right direction.

  2. Deputy Dawg

    Deputy Dawg Active Member

    Welcome to TFF, someone here should be able to answer your question.

  3. Welcome to our nightmare! ;)

    Throwing time and money into a cheap firearm with problems confirms the old adage - "You Can't Make a Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear". These type of guns are crudely made and in many cases you can't do anything about it. The problems you will find in your gun will consist of rough casting, poor (if any) machining, crudely made (usually stamped) trigger linkage and a generally poor design. Your trigger's problem could be the friction from rough parts and rough surfaces inside the frame from casting. It could be a poorly laid-out trigger design that has little or no mechanical leverage - or both - a hundred other things.

    If you are wanting an inexpensive, knock-about handgun to plink with, I suggest trading your Talon for a High Point. While High Point's aren't pretty, they carry a lifetime warranty and have a better trigger than what you have now. Jusy my $.02!
  4. tom vito

    tom vito New Member

    Nov 1, 2005

    THanks for the reply. really the only reason that I was willing to but any effort at all into this handgun, was 1) it is laying here doing nothing, 2) it also came with a "lifetime" warranty, I just didn't know that meant the lifetime of the company :p , 3) it is just something that I can try to correct without having anything lost if no improvements are made. The only loss I would have is my time.

    But thank you for the thoughts of poor design and poor casting. These are things that I would have never thought off, at least not right now. :D

  5. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

    Dec 20, 2003
    Hesperia, CA

    Several things make the trigger pull heavy. A few are: a heavy hammer spring (or striker spring), a heavy sear spring, friction in the pivots, draging of the moving trigger components on the frame, friction as the sear slides on the hammer (or intermediary sear), and sear angles that make the hammer/striker move to the rear too much as the trigger is pulled.

    Trigger jobs are a safety issue and should not be attempted without knowledge. Add to that the fact that most trigger jobs require some modification of the sear and/or hammer surfaces and angles. Cheap guns often have non hardened surfaces on those parts or hardening that is too shallow to allow much material removal to make the angles correct. In general it is not a good idea to mess with a cheap gun as they can become a safety problem.

    I do my own trigger jobs and have for years. I recently took the AGI Trigger Job Course and learned how to do it right after about 20 years of doing it wrong. It is not tough to do but it must be done correctly or safety becomes an issue. The course is pretty expensive to buy to do just one cheap gun. If you have asperations to become a real gun tinkerer or even a gunsmith it is worth it, otherwise it is not.

  6. Tom,

    I understand completely, a gun that isn't fun is a piece of junk collecting dust. LDBennet's post must be considered as gospel in this situation, though. Safety is the final word here and must be considered before everything else.
  7. tom vito

    tom vito New Member

    Nov 1, 2005
    I totally agree that safety is mine, and should be everyones first concern. I was just looking at ideas as to how much might be involved in fixing the hunk of junk. And to see if any of the "fixing" could be done by me.

    Thanks for the replies,
  8. stash247

    stash247 New Member

    Oct 18, 2003
    Central Texas
    Tom, Trigger pull is based on only two issues; geometry, and friction.
    Look at the firing mechanism from a step or two back, draw a dimensioned picture, and compare it to the actual pistol. Most autos have heavy triggers due to the wrong angle in the sear notch of the hammer or striker, causing the trigger to compress the hammer spring, before release, (this is a trigger that 'stacks', or gets heavier as you pull it) or due to lousy design geometry, period.
    In the first case, you can correct the angles. This may require re-hardening the hammer, or striker, possibly the sear, but is 'doable', at home.
    If the problem is one of leverage, arising out of lousy design geometry, the (?) gun is, at best, a paperweight, as relocating holes, pins, etc, amounts to more work than building the pistol.
    I'll offer, as well, that the 1911 is available in 9mm, with a factory trigger in the 6# range, and can be reliable, with 3# or less of effort, should one spend some time/money, on the issue.
    My choice is the 1911, in part, because all the 'issues' were addressed, and worked out, before I was born; you are in the chute, on this one, so make an informed decision!
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