Want a 1911 I think.

Discussion in 'The 1911 Forum' started by MichSteve, Nov 26, 2010.

  1. Teejay9

    Teejay9 New Member

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    I'm having trouble with this statement, John. Are you saying that's where you put your thumb, on TOP of the safety while firing? :eek::eek: I do believe you would injure yourself if that's what you mean. When shooting a 1911, I always grip the gun naturally, BELOW the safety.
    Also, I don't know why some people experience "hammer bite." I've never had hammer bite. Are their hands so fleshy that they puff over the spur on the grip safety? Please elaborate. TJ
  2. fleetwood_captain

    fleetwood_captain New Member

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    Can't say I've ever had a problem activating a beavertail safety on a 1911. Unless of course I was making the mistake of trying to decock it one-handed. :p

    The 1911 is a great platform, but remember that a "mil-spec" 1911 it is a hundred years old and is designed to be used in a specific way.

    First, it has a fixed extractor and should only loaded from the magazine. Racking the slide and inserting a round directly into the chamber will force the extractor to contort and bend around the round casing rather than slide in seamlessly between the shell and the recessed extracting rim. This will cause the weapon to wear out prematurely.

    Second, it is a traditional single-action without a firing pin safety. This means it should be not be decocked as if it were a modern Sig 220 or a double-action revolver. The 1911 was designed with a trigger/hammer block so it can be carried "cocked and locked" safely so that its "ready to rock" when needed. Lowering the hammer gently on a live round will prevent the trigger from firing a round when squeezed, but the gun could theoretically generate enough firing pin inertia to fire the round should the hammer be struck with significant force (like if the gun is dropped).

    Double-action pistols and double-action revolvers have safety mechanisms built in to prevent the gun from firing with the hammer lowered on a live round unless the trigger is completely depressed. The 1911 has no such features, as John Moses Browning designed it to be carried either unloaded or cocked and locked. Although the colt series-80 firing system does include a firing-pin safety that prevents the firing pin from striking the round unless the trigger is pulled, these are uncommon and are generally shunned by 1911 aficionados as the series-80 system is said to detract from the performance of the crisp traditional trigger group.

    If you want an old-fashioned "man's gun", then a 1911 is a very good way to go. Colt is the original US manufacturer, and is generally considered to be "the real thing". Most would say Kimber is the next best, if not better, American Equivelent.

    Systema, Springfield, and Taurus make nice South American clones. Asian clones like Armscor and Rock Island Arms are considered fine by some. Canada’s Para-Ordinance clone is considered either brilliant or terrible depending who you ask. And when money is no object, firms like Les Baer and Wilson make guns that shoot better than most people can aim.

    Considering you have the money to spend on a Quality 1911, I'd point you toward a Colt as they generally have the best resale values.
  3. Alpo

    Alpo Well-Known Member

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    Teejay, I know people that advocate just what John said. 'Course, I also know people that advocate resting the thumb on the recoil shield when firing a double action revolver. But hey, whatever works for them. Like you, I keep my thumb down.

    As for hammer bite, I guess it might be "fleshy hands". My Systema bit me, until I took a file to the back of the hammer spur. But my Gold Cup and my 1918 re-issue, both of which also have traditional "non-beavertail" safeties, don't bite. My Hi-Power bites me. Hell, my wife used to be bit my my 1903 Pocket 32. Concealed hammer, but it still bit her. Best I could figger out, she would hold the gun a little high, so that the fleshy part of the web actually would go into the space between the grip safety and the frame, at the top. Then after firing she'd relax her hand and the safety would spring back and pinch her.
  4. RunningOnMT

    RunningOnMT New Member

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    Since the thread has already drifted a bit...I was fairly recently taught a new grip for me by my LEO CCW instructor and I love it. Left (weak) hand thumb straight up resting lightly against slide, right thumb over first knuckle of left thumb. This grip gives you a higher center of gravity and with a little practice a much better feel. Before you say that there is a risk of causing malfunctions by impeding the slide, I challenge you to press as hard as you can with thumb against slide and TRY to make it malfunction..it ain't happening.
  5. dragman

    dragman New Member

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    I have a few 1911's and I like them all for different reasons. look at all your needs and work from there. I only have a few suggestions for you: if you want resale value buy a colt!!! best priced 5" colt IMO is the Combat Elite two tone at $959 Best 4" would be an of the commanders and a 3" would be a defender or New Agent. All those guns are just under $1000 and will always be worth close to it.
    If you want the best quality "cheaper" 1911 I would and have bought RIA's I have one that has a trigger just as nice as any of my colts or kimbers.

    Just my .02
  6. hogger129

    hogger129 Active Member

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    Citadel, RIA and STI are all good 1911s if you don't want to spend a ton of money.

    I used to have an RIA and traded it for a Loaded Springfield simply because I wanted a bunch of the options I'd add later anyway.

    I think STI does have a model with a bunch of the bells & whistles and from what I hear it's pretty nice. Just gotta look around and ask.
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