Warthog Trigger Adjustment

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by F500, Oct 24, 2007.

  1. F500

    F500 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2007
    Messages:
    3
    OK, I am generally a smart guy, but I may have done something dumb.

    I just bought a Para-Ordinance Warthog. A tiny 10+1 .45 SAO. I read through the booklet first, nothing on the trigger. Specs: Trigger pull 4-6 pounds. And on the neat, cut-out trigger there is an allen bolt, with a wrench in the box.

    Ding! (completely sober) I can adjust the trigger pull from 4 to 6! Let's play with this! Screwed in a modest amount, no change I can feel. Screwed out a modest amount, no change. At one of these extremes, the trigger would not fire. . . Set back to where my memory said the bolt was initially.

    Dry fired quite a bit, dis- and re-assembled several times. Hit shooting range, put 70 rounds of the (customers on forum) recommended rounds through it.

    Wonderful pistol! Beautiful, small, mild kick, etc. But the trigger is a bit rough. . . Enough to impair my aiming. email to Para-Ordinance, get back:

    "The trigger adjustment is for over travel. Be very careful how much you tighten the over travel screw. If you tighten it too much, you can get light or no firing pin hits.

    Also, if the over travel screw is too tight, it can damage the sear."

    I'm not sure what "over travel" is. Any ideas on how to adjust other than "not too tight?" Do I just need to put a few hundred rounds through this still-tight pistol?

    Thanks!
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2007
  2. inplanotx

    inplanotx New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2002
    Messages:
    8,889
    Location:
    Texas
    The over travel adjustment stops rearward movement for the trigger during firing. This adjustment needs to be made very carefully. As the factory told you, too tight and no firing pin hit. Too loose and you screw up the sear face causing a rough trigger pull. With the 70 rounds, you could have possibly caused damage to the sear.

    Now, to adjust it, tighten it up until when you pull the trigger, the gun will not let the hammer fall. Then, using 1/8 - 1/4 turns at a time loosen the screw until you see the hammer fall and do not feel any scraping of the sear against the hammer. When you get to this last stage, put a drop of loctite over the screw and leave it alone.

    The only way to get a lighter trigger pull is by a competent gunsmith familiar with the 1911 style pistol. It requires spring settings and polishing the sear, hammer, disconnector and trigger bow. Without the proper jigs and tools, you will screw up a good pistol.

    IPT
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2007
  3. LDBennett

    LDBennett Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2003
    Messages:
    6,291
    Location:
    Hesperia, CA
    The ideal trigger has little creep (motion of the trigger before the hammer drops to fire the cartridge), a light pull weight (tactical guns need about 3 to 4 lbs for safety reasons), and very little over travel (the travel the trigger makes after the hammer drops). Ideally you touch the trigger then increase the force from your finger and the gun goes off, while the trigger never moves perceptably. Some triggers have a takeup stage that is very light (usualy called a two stage trigger). The trigger easily moves to the spot where you start adding force.

    What you adjusted is the overtravel. No gun is "ideal" and must have some minute amount of creep for safety (more creep=more sear engagement=more safe). No gun can have zero overtravel. The trigger must reset itself and that can not happen with zero overtravel.

    To repeat inplanotx's adjustment process, you adjust the overtravel to the point where the gun will JUST not let the hammer drop. Then back the overtravel adjustment out at least 1/8 turn and 1/4 turn is probably better.

    Reducing the trigger overtravel has NO effect on the trigger pull level. That is controlled by hammer spring, sear spring, and the trigger return spring. The creep is controlled by the sear engagement in the hammer and lots of creep is lots of engagemetn but also lots of safety (its harder for the sear to get knocked off the hammer if the engagement is large). To some extent the pull level is also controlled by the sear engagement especially if the angles are such that the hammer has to be moved against its spring to release (called hammer camming or cam back).

    The easiest way to a good trigger on a 1911 based gun is to install "drop-in" after market trigger parts, like the trigger, the sear, the hammer, the sear/trigger spring, and the hammer spring. The sear angles of these parts are done correctly and safely. The sear engagement is adequate and safe. And the trigger pull is lightened by all the reduced power springs. But get all sear, hammer and trigger parts from the same manufacture as all are made to work together. Mixing after market parts could get you an unsafe trigger system.

    LDBennett
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2007
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