What is used to achieve a high gloss finish on a stock?

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by bluesea112, Dec 17, 2007.

  1. bluesea112

    bluesea112 Active Member

    Nov 20, 2005
    West, TX
    Gloss finish on rifle stock.

    Does anybody happen to know what is used to achieve the high gloss finish on a wooden rifle stocks? I have a Remington 742 with a high gloss finish, and the finish is so clear and bright that it looks like it is 12 inches thick. There is a scratch I would like to repair, but I don't know what the manufacturers use. Do they use:

    High Gloss Laquer?
    High Gloss Urathane?
    High Gloss Polyurathane?
    High Gloss Clear Epoxy?
    Something else?

    I would appreciate any help you can give me.


    Last edited: Dec 17, 2007
  2. TRAP55

    TRAP55 Active Member

    High Gloss Polyurathane, then hand rubbed with auto body polish to match the finish.

  3. bluesea112

    bluesea112 Active Member

    Nov 20, 2005
    West, TX
    Thank you for the info Trap55. I really appreciate it.

  4. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

    Dec 20, 2003
    Hesperia, CA
    The king of high gloss stock finishes in the past was Browning. They used two part epoxy paint, I beleive.

    Highly polished stocks are not my preference. I like to use gloss polyurethane. I use enough coats that the tiny holes in walnut get completely filled until the top surface is completely flat. I sand the stock between coats (600 wet and dry sand paper) and know I'm close when the surface after the light sanding using a sanding block backing is completely dull with no holes. I then add the final coat and make it semigloss with 0000 steel wool. A little furniture wax and the stock looks similar to customized gun stock finishes. Much better than full glossy that requires perfect surface to look good (glossy surface makes wavy sanding and imperfections in the wood stand out like a sore thumb).

    But that's just my opinion and yours may differ. You methods may differ too but there is more than one way to skin a cat, as they say!

  5. bluesea112

    bluesea112 Active Member

    Nov 20, 2005
    West, TX
    I agree with you LD. High gloss is difficult to perfect. I think I will give your method a try with the 0000 steel wool after the final coat and furniture wax follow up. Thanks for the reply.
  6. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

    Dec 20, 2003
    Hesperia, CA

    I caution you to allow the polyurethane plenty of time to dry before sanding it....at least 24 hours. This means perhaps a week of coats and sanding as it takes several coats to seal up the tiny holes of walnut. Since you are going to sand the stock you can brush the coats on. Use the sanding to level any runs or brush marks. If the coats (and runs) are not thoroughly dry the polyurethane will ball up when you sand below the dry surface. To minimise the filling of the pores with the polyurethane coats, you may want to start with a coat or two of sanding sealer. But verify that your sanding sealer of choice is compatible with your polyurethane of choice.

    In the preparations before painting, the final sanding should be done after a quick wipe down with a damp cloth. That raises the wiskers from sanding so that the next sanding cuts them off. You may have to do it a couple of times.

    If you want more good ideas on finishing wood get a funiture refinishing book. Gun stocks an very similar to good furniture.

    Goos luck.

  7. williamd

    williamd New Member

    Mar 21, 2007
  8. bluesea112

    bluesea112 Active Member

    Nov 20, 2005
    West, TX
    Thank you for the tips LDBennet. The great thing about finishing wood is that I can stip it and start over if I mess up.
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2007
  9. Millwright

    Millwright Well-Known Member

    Jun 30, 2005
    Repairing the scratch is pretty easy. Use a high gloss polyurethane. Try a test spot in an inconspicuous area first if in doubt as to the original finish. Wet sand with a very fine grit. Use a frayed paper match or a striping brush to 'fill' the scratch. Let dry 24 hrs. Wet sand area level with 600 grit and finish with a good auto/furniture carnuba wax. >MW
  10. Sooner44

    Sooner44 New Member

    Feb 7, 2007
    Tru-oil, the best I found and no yellowing after time
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