What to do with a lemon ruger

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by LyleLovett666, Jun 13, 2012.

  1. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    3,743
    Location:
    Imperial, MO
    Have you had anyone else try to shoot it? The reason Im asking is that your situation sounds like a customer that I had with his P95. Sometimes it wouldn't feed sometimes it would not eject. Cycling by hand it worked fine. I went out and shot it and it worked perfectly. Dont get me wrong here, I dont know your hand gun handling skills but the P95 being a heavy gun and also a large gun is it possible that your are "and this is the new PC term a student in a basic pistol class used" "Yielding to the recoil of the gun"? That is what his problem was. He could handle a handgun but the grip was to large for him to fully control the gun. With the P95 any lost recoil can result in the issues your having.
  2. LyleLovett666

    LyleLovett666 Former Guest

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Messages:
    308
    Location:
    Seattle
    Ya,I had my BIL shoot it and he had the same problems.He's an x ranger who's been shooting his whole life,so I trust his opinion.This was before the last time it was returned.I had thought that maybe I was limp wristing it being my first gun but it shot fine for the firts hundred rounds at my first outing and then began to have problems.After the first trip back to ruger every shot jammed and then last weekend the first two mags(fired through the same mag)went through fine but the third mag(the same mag)jammed after every shot.
  3. LDBennett

    LDBennett Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2003
    Messages:
    6,291
    Location:
    Hesperia, CA
    Repairing any gun via the internet is nearly impossible. Ruger's repair guys obviously did not find the problem. The next step is to take it to a real certified gunsmith and have him inspect and test it. He will probably:

    Inspect the claw of the extractor for proper fit. Only the very tip of the extractor should touch the case. It should be angled so that it is "positive". That is, no other parts of the extractor other than the tip should be touching the case rim. There should also be a tiny chamfer on the under side of the claw to aid the case coming up under the extractor during feeding

    Test the extractor for its strength by placing a modified empty case under it (slide out of gun) and measure the pull force to slide the case down the bolt face to remove the case from the bolt face.

    Remove the recoil spring, load up a full magazine with dummies and hand operate the gun to watch the feeding, extraction, and ejection. This may lead to magazine lip adjustments. While the recoil spring is out the recoil "system" will be checked for burrs or anything that might catch the recoil spring.

    Inspect the firing pin and it associated parts, making sure the firing pin can not stick forward from the hammer hitting it. There could be something in the firing pin hole (burr or just junk) that is catching the firing pin after the hammer hits it.

    A good gunsmith will probably do other tests and inspections as well but all of that is hard to do over the internet.

    As a first gun that has failed it must be frustrating. But stuff happens even at Ruger (probably the biggest gun manufacturer of commercial arms in the world). Persevere and you'll get this gun fixed but do take it to a qualified gunsmith. Ruger and others rarely hire real gunsmiths. They just train assemblers to fix common problems. When a stinker problem comes along the trained assembler is at a loss. I think that is where your gun is at.

    LDBennett
  4. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2009
    Messages:
    1,097
    As post #23 (L D Bennett) correctly points out in a case like this: "Repairing any gun via the internet is nearly impossible." Many here could likely determine the problem in a few minutes if we had your gun in our hands; but such is not possible. This is certainly a problem for you; but it is Ruger's problem, also, if there is a mechanical defect relative to the gun.

    Post #21 (Helix_FR) points out a common reason for semi-auto cycling problems. {I will also add that in the three years that he has been here at TFF, he has gone from being an apparent serious gunsmithing hobbyist to being professionally employed as a gunsmith at a full time, storefront retail firearms business. He likely sees more different things, vocationally, in a week than many of us do in several months.} NO DISRESPECT INTENDED TO YOU OR YOUR "BIL"; but it is not possible for us to know if you and your "BIL" are experiencing operator problems or the gun (which is about as simple and reliable as most boat anchors) has a problem.

    My advice is that if Mr. Lovett is absolutely certain that the problem is a defective P95 pistol, and in no way related to the operators failing to provide sufficient solid resistance [locked wrist(s), stiff arm(s), no trigger jerk] for the gun to recoil against, then he should write a letter to: Mr. Joe Cramer, Director of Customer Service, Strum-Ruger & Co., 200 Ruger Rd., Prescott, AZ 86301; and explain the history of the problem with a link to this thread at TFF. I think that you will find that if there is an actual problem with this pistol, Mr. Cramer will do whatever is necessary to get it "made right".
  5. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    3,743
    Location:
    Imperial, MO
    I agree with HS on this one too. Ruger will make it right but they cant make right on something they can't reproduce. Were you go shoot, is there a range master? Ask them if there is. I respect your BIL's military credentials but I know a Marine Sniper that cant shoot his 1911 to save his life. 2 other things that come to mind with the P series rugers that can cause problems that you described. 1 is a bulged barrel. With the slide off and the recoil spring out- the barrel should slide though the front "bushing" the whole length of the barrel, if not, replace it. Also the ejector. This is the part you push down on through the mag well to remove the slide, the small tab at the top of it which is what kicks the spent casing out should be riding high and almost be touching the top of the notch cut out in the breech face. Ive seen issues were this tab is bent too low and instead of hitting the back of the casing its hitting below or missing completly and the only reason the gun even ejects is under its own momentum.
  6. bobski

    bobski Former Guest

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2005
    Messages:
    947
    Location:
    va., conn., & mo.
    now you know why places like *** ******.commie are in existence.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 15, 2012
  7. langenc

    langenc New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2009
    Messages:
    623
    Location:
    Montmorency Co, MI
    If you belong to a local club take it and let couple others shoot and examine.

    If not a club member-join.
  8. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2009
    Messages:
    6,400
    I admit to not having direct experience with Ruger's repair department (not much ever goes wrong with a Ruger) but I find it hard to believe they would miss a bulged barrel!

    Jim
  9. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    3,743
    Location:
    Imperial, MO
    Though i dont know rugers process for repairs, one would think they would try to reproduce the problem. if they dont experience the described issue why would they look any further. the p series barrel is countoured, some buldges are hard to feel.
Similar Threads
Forum Title Date
Technical Questions & Information Ruger M77 (pre-MkII) variant question Mar 9, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Ruger Quality Feb 14, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Ruger MKI MKII question Jan 20, 2014
Technical Questions & Information SR22 Ruger rifle Jan 13, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Ruger scope mounts Dec 19, 2013