The Firearms Forum banner

Python: nickel or stainless?

10K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  soundguy 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,

Newbie to the forum here. I have a question that I've been unable to resolve on other sites, and a quick search here gave no results.

I have a Colt Python that belonged to my late hubby and which I treasure for sentimental and other reasons. It has either a nickel or stainless finish; unfortunately I don't remember what he said it was and he did not have the box. In checking on Colt's website with the serial #, it was manufactured in 1977. As this info comes from Colt's site, I believe it is likely accurate.

On various websites, though, I've also read that an "S" stamped below the serial # (the S is not part of the serial #, separate from it) means the finish is stainless. My Python has this S clearly stamped below the serial #. I've also read dates given from 1982 to 1985 as the beginning of manufacture of stainless Pythons. Regardless of which of those dates is correct, my Python was made prior to these years--but has the "S" stamped. This is where the conflict arises; both sets of info can't be correct.

From the info I've given (date of manufacture 1977 according to the serial # by Colt) and also the "S" stamped below the serial #, which finish does my Python have?

It doesn't matter to me which it is, but I would like to know for my own information. Thanks so much if you can clarify this for me!
 
See less See more
#4 ·
Depends on its age. Prior to 1981 it would have been nickel. After 81 it could be nickel or Coltguard plated, and after 1984 it would be stainless or super polished stainless.

Edit: Here is a link to look up the serial number: http://www.colt.com/Customer-Services/Serial-Number-Lookup
 
#5 ·
Thanks all!

I looked up the serial # on Colt's website and that's why I think it was made in 1977. I'm confused about the info I've read from other sources that say the "S" stamped, by itself, below the serial # means it's stainless. That info, if correct, conflicts with the year of manufacture.

I'll try to upload a couple of pictures, but they were taken with my phone and might not be the best quality.

Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Gun barrel


The mysterious "S":

Office equipment Electronics Typewriter
 
#6 ·
I have an older S&W .38 Spl that was my daddy's and is nickel finish, and a couple of newer stainless steel revolvers (S&W, Ruger). The Python's finish doesn't really look like any of them. I hope the pictures help. The finish is very shiny and looks pretty much like the picture. It doesn't look either yellowish or grayish to my untrained eye, just a very bright "silver."

Btw, the serial # is 6xxxxE, with the "S" below it.
 
#7 ·
I'm not an expert but I have researched these quite a bit. To my knowledge Colt did not make the Python in stainless until 1983. I have never read anything to the contrary.

The stainless models do have S's stamped usually in 3 places:
  1. Inside the shroud where the ejector rod sits - this "S" will be sideways.
  2. On the center-rear of the cylinder under the ejector.
  3. On the left lower side of the grip frame under the grips
If I'm seeing your picture correctly, the S is not in any of the 3 places I listed. Are there others?

The placement of the S, combined with the age, which I agree is late 70's, makes me think that the S may possibly indicate that it was a special order gun, not that it's stainless. Again, I'm not pretending to be an expert, just someone who likes Pythons and has studied them some.
 
#21 ·
I'm not an expert but I have researched these quite a bit. To my knowledge Colt did not make the Python in stainless until 1983. I have never read anything to the contrary.

The stainless models do have S's stamped usually in 3 places:
  1. Inside the shroud where the ejector rod sits - this "S" will be sideways.
  2. On the center-rear of the cylinder under the ejector.
  3. On the left lower side of the grip frame under the grips
If I'm seeing your picture correctly, the S is not in any of the 3 places I listed. Are there others?

The placement of the S, combined with the age, which I agree is late 70's, makes me think that the S may possibly indicate that it was a special order gun, not that it's stainless. Again, I'm not pretending to be an expert, just someone who likes Pythons and has studied them some.
Good info! Is there any chance that the mysterious "S" could be an inspector stamp or maybe the builder's mark? I work in a production machine shop. When I was a machine operator, we used to stamp our parts for identification. I have a blued Python and it is my favorite weapon. I'm going to look mine over now out of curiosity.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cec2 and jwdurf
#13 ·
Thanks, guys.

I don't know if he had other grips for it, or if he ever had the box or what would have happened to the box if he did. I'm thinking he may have bought it used, but I'm not even sure of that. He already owned this gun when we met, and I don't recall now what all he said about it over the years. He used it in some gun shop matches and said it was very accurate. It was the first gun we ever shot together and he knew I loved shooting it, so he gave it to me some years ago. Of course, he was still "in charge of" it, LOL. I wish I could remember more about it, but I'm awful at remembering details over time.

Its serial # doesn't begin with any letters like the ones y'all have mentioned do. It just starts with a 6 and ends with an E.

I'll get it out and look for the S in the other places mentioned, except I don't want to remove the grips. I don't recall offhand whether there is an S in any other location. I'll update after I take another look at it. Thanks for all the info so far!
 
#14 ·
OK, I've looked at it again, and I do not see any other "S." I don't want to take the grips off, so I didn't check there.

The serial # that has the "S" below it is the one that is on the actual frame. In my photo, I have a piece of paper covering it. (I admit I'm a bit paranoid about what I share on the internet.) These are on the frame. The same serial # is also on the arm (Is that the crane?) that holds the rod and cylinder, but there is no S stamped under that serial #. I can't find one inside the ejector rod shroud. I also don't see an S on the back of the cylinder under the star. My eyes aren't the best any more, but surely I could find it if it was there.

So, from what all of you have posted, it would be nickel finish, correct?

Please tell me more about the "S" possibly meaning special order. What is a special order as it relates to these guns? What would make it a special order that would need to be marked?

Also, does the nickel require any particular types of solvents or such? I've not actually cleaned this gun because I've not fired it since my husband died, but before I put it away several years ago I did run a damp patch (Hoppe's?) through the chambers and barrel, then a couple of dry ones. The best I remember it wasn't at all dirty, at least not more than a tiny bit of gray. Hubby kept his guns in good shape. Then I ran a lightly oiled patch (Rem Oil probably) through them followed by a dry patch. I wiped the outside down before putting it in the case. I hope all of that was okay. When I did that, I was probably under the impression it was stainless.

If I'm not mistaken, I think I read somewhere that regular Hoppe's can damage nickel. If that's so, what should be used when it eventually needs cleaning again? I don't have any plans to fire it again, but you never know, and it will go to one of my sons someday. They'll shoot it for sure, at least a few times.

Also, someone mentioned that it's worth a good bit, which I know the Pythons do bring good prices. I would never sell it, but I have 1 Python and 2 sons, and no other gun that really is comparable to it. (My next best gun is a 4" 686, very nice despite the dreaded lock, but certainly not a Python!) I probably need to buy another good Python somewhere, so for comparison purposes it would be good to know a ball-park figure for this one. What do y'all think, not being able to inspect it of course? As far as I know, there's nothing wrong with it, but it has been used normally while my hubby was alive. I don't trust myself to buy a used gun, but I may try to get the boys to start looking around for one. About how much damage to my bank account to buy something comparable?

Sorry for all these questions, but I'm curious about the "S", and also I don't want to ever do anything that would harm this beautiful gun. Your advice and info will be greatly appreciated.

I'll wipe it down again and put it away. I do know enough not to leave finger prints on it!
 
#19 ·
Thanks, rcairflr. I sure do wish I had one each for the boys.

Do you know anything more about the "S" or special orders?

Also, what cleaners would be safe to use on the nickel?
Shiny nickel guns are very corrosion resistant if the finish is undamaged. Trouble is its pretty easy to damage if treated like other guns. Nickel plating is applied over a copper plating. Bore solvents such as the old tried and true hoppes remove copper. Many claim it's fine to use any cleaner you wish ,just be sure to remove all of it. Trouble is there is more than one way to end up leaving some unnoticed here and there till the gun is pulled out later. For a fine example such as yours I would not risk exposing it to such a possibility.
I do not own nor have owned a nickel gun. I am told that a product called M pro-7 is a good choice for nickel firearms even older fragile colt coatings.
 
#17 ·
Nothing magical about cleaning a stainless gun. Use a cleaner such as Hoppes #9 on the inside of the barrel and cylinder and a good gun oil for all the outside. Keep the oil application thin, you don't want it running everywhere
I never use anything to clean my firearms other than cleaning patches, fiber brushes and q-tips. Never anything that could cause damage such as bronze bore brushes and definitely nothing steel. For cleaning the barrel use a plastic or carbon fiber bore rod, again don't use steel.
Keep the firearm stored in a temperature controlled and dry place and re-oil every 3-6 months if not being used.
 
#18 ·
That's what I do on the stainless steel ones. But this one isn't stainless; apparently it is nickel plated. From what I've read, anything with any ammonia in it or that will work on copper deposits isn't safe to use on nickel, which would seem to rule out almost everything. What do people use on nickel plated ones? Thanks
 
#20 · (Edited)
I think it is nickel not stainless. And solvents like Hoppe's may damage some nickel finishes. Here is a pdf with cleaning info: http://www.coltcollectors.com/assets/careandcleaningofcoltfirearms.pdf

And here is a link to Colt's Archive site where you can order an Archive Letter from Colt that will detail the manufacture info on your specific gun. Might be worth the $90.00, it adds provenance.

http://www.colt.com/Customer-Services/Archive-Services

As to value, I don't see any good pythons for less than $3k anymore here in CA. Prices vary regionally.
 
#23 ·
Great info, thanks again to all of you.

I decided to call Colt, and y'all are absolutely right about the "S" mark. The Colt customer service rep was very helpful, and immediately said the S is just an assembler's mark, with basically no other meaning. He said some Pythons have them, some don't, for no particular reason. Mystery solved!

I did not see a need to mention that some of the stainless steel ones also have "S" marks, although in other locations, which was what caused my confusion. All that is history at this point.

While I had him on the phone, I did ask what would be a safe cleaner to use on the nickel Python. This was a little like picking a splinter out with a needle, but I finally got a specific answer. I guess they don't like to name names or something. He first said, "Any good gun oil," and I said, "But I mean for cleaning the bore and chambers." Then he said, "It's best to clean it as soon as possible after firing it." I said, "Yes, but with what?" He said, "Don't use anything with ammonia in it." I said, "That's what I've read, but most of them seem to have some ammonia, and I've read that most of the ones I've heard of are not safe to use on it. Can you tell me what IS safe to use?" I guess he figured I wasn't going to hush up, because then he said, "CLP doesn't have any ammonia; you could use that." I counted that good enough and thanked him kindly.

I called before I received these latest replies, so I didn't know to ask about M Pro 7.

I think there's some Breakfree CLP in the closet somewhere. I guess I should find it and use a little of it on the Python just to be safe, as the last time I probably ran a damp Hoppe's (maybe the Elite?) patch through the bore and cylinders, before using a tiny bit of Rem Oil on a patch. I don't have any of the M Pro 7.

All of you have been very helpful to me, also for the links and regarding its value. Many, many thanks!
 
#24 ·
2500$ seems to be going price here.

I have a shooter grade I got for 2000 that has been refinished ( very good job, really hard to tell ). The royal blue never leaves the safe, and the nickel is an older 4" with a little holster wear on the bbl nose. I dont fire either of those.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top