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Birchwood Casey

705 views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  goofy 
#1 ·
The new used stock I got for a 243 was in very good shape other than a few dings. I had just a small amount of Birchwood Casey here so tried something. Where the ding's were the finish was also peeled up a bit. I took a bit of 400 grit sand paper and got all of the peeled stuff off. Then took the same piece of paper and dipped it into some Birchwood Casey and rubbed it on like I would a new finish job, rub in circles. Where I did it you can't tell the ding was ever there in the first place! I don't use 400 grit sandpaper to re-finish but I do use 400 grit wet and dry paper.
 
#2 · (Edited)
What Birchwood Casey product did you use?.
They make so many different things.
If you are talking about Tru-Oil be careful because this will cause some finishes to bubble up and peel. And will not set up on other types of finishes. You should use the type of finish that is already on the wood to do what you did. And just the way you did it.
Mike
 
#3 ·
I've used Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil, with some success. I've also used Formby's low-gloss Tung Oil with good results. I use a little on the palm of my hand and rub it into the wood until I feel it getting hot. Makes your hands messy - but gives a good, lasting finish.

For any really deep holes or gouges that can't be steamed or sanded out I have an old trick I've used for many years. After I sanded the stock as smooth and clean as I can get it (without making a toothpick out of it) - I wipe down the stock and give it a gentle sanding with 400 grit paper. I carefully save that clean sanding dust in a small envelope.

I use a product like Crazy Glue, and put a small amount into the hole or gouge - maybe a drop or two depending on the hole. Then I sprinkle a little of that dust onto the glue and let it set-up. Sometimes I get a tiny wisp of smoke as the glue interacts with the dust. I repeat this until the void is filled, and just a 'little proud' above the surface. Then I carefully sand it flush with the surface and finish the stock as usual. The filled holes and voids will look like natural knots in the wood. The repairs last **forever** (I've had repair jobs over 40 years old that are as good today as when I did them).
 
#4 ·
I am now writing a article for TFF and this will be in it.
When a dent or scratch can not be lifted out and you are going to use tru-oil for a finish you can save the sanding dust from a fine sand paper sanding and use Tru-Oil to fill the scratch with a tooth pick and add the dust to the oil. This will take a few times to fill but make it higher then the surrounding area. When dry sand smooth. This can take a stain if you are using one. And when you coat the rest of the stock it will blend in.
Mike
 
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