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Machining marks on a barrel hood.

2K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  howlnmad 
#1 ·
RIA isn't really known for their finishing, so I need to know the best way to remove these maching marks.
Cylinder Auto part Metal

I'm thinking some wet/dry emory paper. But what grit to start and the progression .
Advice is eagerly waited upon.
 
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#6 ·
RIA isn't really known for their finishing, so I need to know the best way to remove these maching marks.
View attachment 128278
I'm thinking some wet/dry emory paper. But what grit to start and the progression .
Advice is eagerly waited upon.
Is that the one you were going to order some front/rear sights??? If you got them, how about a pix?
 
#10 · (Edited)
Use the black sandpaper that is for steel.
Put masking tape on the barrel below wear you are sanding in case you slip.
Only sand the direction that you want your final lines to be. The high spots will level out while you are sanding and "Equal" out in height with the low spots.
Do not use anything hard because it will cause "Flat" spots and make it harder to smooth out. (A flat surface will leave flat spots on round surface).
Start and finish with the "Shoe shine method". Moving the point of contact back and forth. (Around the round of the steel with the paper on the steel and your hands holding the paper at 6 o'clock the hands at 7 o'clock then hands at 5 o'clock and so on back and forth). Use a strip of sand paper 2 to 3 inches wide(the width of what you are sanding) and 1 foot long (The full length of the paper). But be careful not to go to far around that you are sanding off the sharp edge below the round of the hood.
You can try 400 grit to start but finish up with 600-800 grit. (Moving up one grit at a time do not skip up) Remember you will be leaving cut lines while you are sanding so stop when you are close and move up to a higher grit so you end up level and polished with no cut lines..
You can go up to 1000 grit if you want a no line smooth finish.(Polished).Take your time it will smooth out and even out this way.
But I fear all you work smoothing this out will end up with lines in it from the barrel function when firing.
Mike
 
#12 ·
Mike, I beg to differ. I work steel "every day," and I polish it to a mirror finish. Remember- I both refinish guns and expensive cutlery.
I hesitate to give much advice about working with one's hands, because you never know what people are capable of. With your method, unless he is experienced, sharp edges will be rounded off, and more metal could be removed than necessary.
With my method, he could leave flat spots-but only if he is inept or ignorant. If the flat surface is moved with the contour of the barrel, there will be no flat spots. It is common knowledge to polish at 45 degree angles to grind lines-at least until those lines are gone.
And, gdmoody is correct!
 
#14 ·
After hours of consideration and talking to friends, I have decided to go with gdmoodys suggestion. It ain't broke and it's not a high dollar firearm, I have put the "idiot mark" on it and the finish wasn't the best right out of the box. I only have a few firearms that I worry about the appearance, and this isn't one of them. So, sorry to start any disagreements and I appreciate all the advice, but it's going to stay as is.
 
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