I picked this up yesterday. The 521-T replaced the 521-T Junior Special in the Remington lineup for the less expensive target rifle lineup. It is a 25" tapered barrel, 6 round magazine with Lyman 57RS rear peep (aperture is missing) and Lyman 17A globe front. Manufacture May 1964.
There is much discussion as to whether these rifles came with a front blade sight or it any came with the globe sight. I'm beginning to think the globe is aftermarket.
This rifle was from a Boy Scout shooting program in New York. With all the restrictive laws in the state the rifle program was scraped and the rifles sold off. The Scout program trashed all the magazines and turned the rifles offer to dealers for disposal.
The .5" rear aperture is on order.
Like I said, this is a project rifle with very little invested.
The stock is losing it's finish, but is not banged up very much. I think I will strip it and oil it with boiled linseed oil.
The barrel and receiver bluing is good except at the end of the barrel. At least one other front sight has been on this rifle. When the globe sight, or maybe an earlier was added, solder buildup from a previous sight was left on the barrel. Pretty lousy job. I plan to clean this up and touch up the bluing here.
WHAT A MESS! Whoever did this is not a gunsmith or at least I hope he doesn't claim to be! Someone has put an aftermarket sight on this barrel that required being soldered on. Way too much solde used and did'nt clean up the mess. Later the sight was removed when the globe sight was put on and the excess solder was not removed then either. I plan to heat this up and clean off the excess and then touch up the blue.
Looks like you got your work cut out for you tuck. Can't wait to see it when it's done. I have never used Boil Linseed oil. Can it be applied over a finish, or does the wood have to be stripped down?
I love those guns.
The front sight was a dove tailed post sight.
Looks like it will be a blond wood when you strip it. Blond wood looks great when it is not stained.
Have fun with it.
May I suggest using Brownells 44/40 instant gun blue.
That matches the blue best and holds up better then cold blue.
Mike .
Thanks Mike for the recommendation. I have Blue Wonder and Birchwood Casey. Will those work if I heat the barrel with a heat gun before I apply it. If not, I may be making a Brownell order. I have a couple of other items I want to order too.
I will second Mike's recommendation of the 44/40, it is some good stuff. The only thing that I don't care for is that to get your money's worth, you need to be able to use it up quickly. It will crystallize and get hard as a rock after opening if not used in a reasonable amount of time.
I had been thinking of buying a project like yours that I can learn from from actually doing the work. I would like to learn how blue a gun and strip the stock and refinish it. Please do show us the finish product.
Tuck, nice looking walnut stock. As far as the Birchwood Casey blue. I've done several guns with it with great results. I polished up the metal to a mirror finish and made sure it was clean.
You can sand out the marks starting with 220 grit and work you way up to 320 grit by putting the barrel in a vice and sand like you are polishing a shoe. Move up and down the barrel so you blend in the dip that will be there because of sanding out the marks. The barrel was finished off from the factory at around 320 grit. You can see the sanding marks from the factory in a unsanded area. When you have it down to where you want it go back over it by sanding all the way around the barrel in one motion to give it a "finished" look with no stop and go marks. Then clean and blue. Start off with 3 inch wide sand paper for the file marks and then go to 8 inch wide paper to blend it all. I would sand the whole barrel to make it match over lapping were you sanded and where you are sanding next..
ALWAYS SAND AROUND THE BARREL NOT FRONT TO BACK....
Mike
Two coats of boiled linseed oil. I did not sand out the nicks and scratches. This was just a thorough cleaning job. I have not done the bluing yet, so no pics of that. Still deciding what to do. One file cut is deep enough that it will take a considerable amount of metal to be removed to get it out. Maybe just a good sanding with the 320 grit to match factory finish and then blue.
Two coats of boiled linseed oil. I did not sand out the nicks and scratches. This was just a thorough cleaning job. I have not done the bluing yet, so no pics of that. Still deciding what to do. One file cut is deep enough that it will take a considerable amount of metal to be removed to get it out. Maybe just a good sanding with the 320 grit to match factory finish and then blue.
Sometimes you just can not get out all the dings and cuts in the steel. You only have so much steel to work with and you can not take so much off you make it unsafe.
I am redoing a model 10 for Todd and there are some hammer marks that I can not get out because it would require taking off to much steel.
That is just part of the game (So to speak).
Mike
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