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Remington 521-T Project

12K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  goofy 
#1 ·
I picked this up yesterday. The 521-T replaced the 521-T Junior Special in the Remington lineup for the less expensive target rifle lineup. It is a 25" tapered barrel, 6 round magazine with Lyman 57RS rear peep (aperture is missing) and Lyman 17A globe front. Manufacture May 1964.

There is much discussion as to whether these rifles came with a front blade sight or it any came with the globe sight. I'm beginning to think the globe is aftermarket.

This rifle was from a Boy Scout shooting program in New York. With all the restrictive laws in the state the rifle program was scraped and the rifles sold off. The Scout program trashed all the magazines and turned the rifles offer to dealers for disposal.

The .5" rear aperture is on order.

Like I said, this is a project rifle with very little invested.

Gun Firearm Rifle Trigger Shotgun


Gun Rifle Firearm Trigger Air gun


The stock is losing it's finish, but is not banged up very much. I think I will strip it and oil it with boiled linseed oil.

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Gun Rifle Firearm Trigger Air gun
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Gun Rifle Trigger Firearm Air gun
Gun Rifle Trigger Shotgun Air gun


The barrel and receiver bluing is good except at the end of the barrel. At least one other front sight has been on this rifle. When the globe sight, or maybe an earlier was added, solder buildup from a previous sight was left on the barrel. Pretty lousy job. I plan to clean this up and touch up the bluing here.
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#2 ·
WHAT A MESS! Whoever did this is not a gunsmith or at least I hope he doesn't claim to be! Someone has put an aftermarket sight on this barrel that required being soldered on. Way too much solde used and did'nt clean up the mess. Later the sight was removed when the globe sight was put on and the excess solder was not removed then either. I plan to heat this up and clean off the excess and then touch up the blue.

Any recommendations before I do it?

Material property Pen
 
#6 ·
Thanks Mike for the recommendation. I have Blue Wonder and Birchwood Casey. Will those work if I heat the barrel with a heat gun before I apply it. If not, I may be making a Brownell order. I have a couple of other items I want to order too.
 
#9 ·
I had been thinking of buying a project like yours that I can learn from from actually doing the work. I would like to learn how blue a gun and strip the stock and refinish it. Please do show us the finish product.
 
#21 · (Edited)
You can sand out the marks starting with 220 grit and work you way up to 320 grit by putting the barrel in a vice and sand like you are polishing a shoe. Move up and down the barrel so you blend in the dip that will be there because of sanding out the marks. The barrel was finished off from the factory at around 320 grit. You can see the sanding marks from the factory in a unsanded area. When you have it down to where you want it go back over it by sanding all the way around the barrel in one motion to give it a "finished" look with no stop and go marks. Then clean and blue. Start off with 3 inch wide sand paper for the file marks and then go to 8 inch wide paper to blend it all. I would sand the whole barrel to make it match over lapping were you sanded and where you are sanding next..
ALWAYS SAND AROUND THE BARREL NOT FRONT TO BACK....
Mike
 
#23 ·
Two coats of boiled linseed oil. I did not sand out the nicks and scratches. This was just a thorough cleaning job. I have not done the bluing yet, so no pics of that. Still deciding what to do. One file cut is deep enough that it will take a considerable amount of metal to be removed to get it out. Maybe just a good sanding with the 320 grit to match factory finish and then blue.

Gun Rifle Firearm Trigger Air gun
Gun Firearm Trigger Air gun Gun barrel
 
#25 ·
Two coats of boiled linseed oil. I did not sand out the nicks and scratches. This was just a thorough cleaning job. I have not done the bluing yet, so no pics of that. Still deciding what to do. One file cut is deep enough that it will take a considerable amount of metal to be removed to get it out. Maybe just a good sanding with the 320 grit to match factory finish and then blue.

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Sometimes you just can not get out all the dings and cuts in the steel. You only have so much steel to work with and you can not take so much off you make it unsafe.
I am redoing a model 10 for Todd and there are some hammer marks that I can not get out because it would require taking off to much steel.
That is just part of the game (So to speak).
Mike
 
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