I was recently given an Italian reproduction black powder revolver in 44 caliber. Gun is one of the better repros and in great condition except the nipples have been hammered out of shape (repeated dry firing would be my guess). Despite various solvents etc., I have broken two nipple wrenches trying to get them out so I can replace them. New cylinder is available ($85) but it seems like there should be some simple trick to get them out. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Kroll oil is your friend in these situations. Soak the cylinder, nipple area, well and let it sit for a day or too. Black powder corrosion is hard to get past but it can be done.
A good home made penetrating fluid is a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone, put the cylinder in a disposable container like a plastic butter dish and submerge it in it and put the lid on it to keep the acetone from evaporating away. Let it soak for a couple of days. Next try striking the end of the nipple wrench with a small brass hammer, the impact can help loosen the corrosion. If you don't have a nipple wrench you can make one from a small deep well socket using a small grinding tool like a Dremel to cut a slot in the sides that fits your nipple. If all else fails or you break the top off of the nipple you can use a drill and an easy out.
It will help to put the cylinder in a vise with soft jaws rather than trying to hold it in one hand and trying to use a wrench with the other hand.
I haven't fired a black powder revolver for more than 30 years. With cleaning them after firing with hot/soapy water and a good drying - I was always a little edgy about the water thing. Here is a question - maybe not necessary - but still wondering:
After the usual hot water cleaning, would it make sense to lightly grease the threads of the nipples to make sure they don't rust in-place? I used to use WD40 because of it's water-displacement properties, but always had the nagging worry about possible rust.
I haven't fired a black powder revolver for more than 30 years. With cleaning them after firing with hot/soapy water and a good drying - I was always a little edgy about the water thing. Here is a question - maybe not necessary - but still wondering:
After the usual hot water cleaning, would it make sense to lightly grease the threads of the nipples to make sure they don't rust in-place? I used to use WD40 because of it's water-displacement properties, but always had the nagging worry about possible rust.
WD 40 after the hot soapy water wash to drive out the moisture followed by a good oil treatment and a little grease on the threads is also a good idea.
Try the penetration oil thing then put the cylinder in the freezer over night. A little heat at the nipples wouldn't hurt either.
Buy a properly sized easy-out at the hardware store. Clean out the hole in the nipple with a drill, and then insert the easy-out. Turn the easy-out with vise grips.
same issue with an old muzzle loader. It had been loaded since the 70's they thought. finally got the load out and soaked the nipple breach for several days. Tried about every thing.
I have a small butane torch with a pencil point flame. Heated the nipple and it came right out,
One more thing. Remove and clean the nipples after every firing. Apply anti-seize (a.k.a. shotgun choke lube) to the nipples' threads before reinstalling. Birchwood Casey makes choke lube that I like, but there are other brands.
I don't know why, but many people are sure that nipples tighten up when the gun is fired. And many brand-new Italian reproduction revolvers come with their nipples way over-tightened. With a new revolver, my first order of business is to remove the nipples and replace the originals with bronze Ampco or with stainless steel nipples - sized for #11 caps (rather for #10 that seem to come with Italian revolvers). I always install nipples to be just snug, not overly tight.
Thanks for the tip. I have given up and local gunsmith is trying. In the meantime I am looking for a replacement cylinder (everyone seems out of stock).
Go to an auto parts store an buy spark plug anti seize grease for the threads on the new nipples. It is formulated to not melt at high temperatures. This is what I use when installing the barrel nut when building AR's.
Did not read all of the replies so maybe this has been mentioned.
After soaking the nips in whatever solvent you choose, place it in a vise and add some heat to the area of each nip, in succession as you work on it, using a heat gun (not a torch as these are hard to control). Once the area around the nip has been soaked and then heated try the wrench again and add some mild (mild) percussions to the tool to set up a vibration. Just a suggestion.
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