I've used them in my 16's for about 10 years in a non-nitro proofed drilling and a non-nitro proofed combination gun. If you're using black powder, a "square" load for whichever gauge you're shooting with the traditional wad column should give you at least decent results right out of the gate.
If you're wanting to use smokeless, I am of no help whatsoever.
I size them then prime, put my clay dot in, then I put a over shot card in then a plastic wad in,then shot, then a over shot card and glue the card in, Elmer's glue, done.
I've still got some of Dad's old red hard plastic Alcan hulls. I've never reloaded them but a wad card is how you finish them up. I used to make shot shells for my M2 carbine for killing rats on guard duty. I'd drop a bit of wax over the lower powder charge and then another wad of wax over the shot charge. I suppose I could have made some hard carboard wads if I'd tried hard enough to come up with something. No manual for that stuff.
For my old Iver Johnson 44-40 shotgun I take the 44-40 shell put the power in then the plastic shot tube for a 44 with shot in and crimp, works great, the 44-40 is the predasesser to the 410 shotgun. I can't buy ammo for it, so I have to make it.
I wish I could find some 3" brass shotshells for 28 gauge. It might give me the initiative to develop the ".550 Vorlon Express" double rifle that I've mused about, for so long.
Evidently I misunderstood the question. Sized, primed, 70 grs. of Schuetzen Ffg, over powder card, fiber wad, 1 oz. of shot, OSC then covered with waterglass. I tried every glue but epoxy and super glue and none would hold up to recoil in drillings or combination guns. Waterglass does and, it also happens to be historically correct.
How do you prevent your waterglass from setting up in the jar?
I bought a quart jar at the drugstore. Only size they had. I poured an ounce or so into a Dixie bathroom cup and put the lid back on. I worked out of that Dixie cup until what was in there solidified. Then I threw the cup away and poured another ounce or so out of the jar into a fresh cup.
Third or fourth time I went back to that jar to get a new ounce or so into a cup, the top couple of inches in the jar was solid.
I've still got some of Dad's old red hard plastic Alcan hulls. I've never reloaded them but a wad card is how you finish them up. I used to make shot shells for my M2 carbine for killing rats on guard duty. I'd drop a bit of wax over the lower powder charge and then another wad of wax over the shot charge. I suppose I could have made some hard carboard wads if I'd tried hard enough to come up with something. No manual for that stuff.
That's pretty cool ! I have thought about picking up a paper shotgun shell to put on the shelf but keep getting sidetracked . I remember reading that the major drawback of the paper shotgun shells was if they drew moister they tended to swell some then were hard to load .
I still have the 157 primers for the old shot shells, I am using them by putting a plastic straw over the primer and installing in the newer shot shells, that take the 209's, I think I have abound 850 left.
Alpo, it solidified that fast? From your post do I understand this happened in....an hour or so?
I don't know why unless it was open or had a loose cap. I can only assume air got to it over a period of time....I guess. The plastic bottle of about 12 ounces, I think, that I bought 3-4 years ago is still liquid. I was told to shake it up every few days because it will separate and solidify. Then invert the container, then next time you shake it, turn it the other way....which I haven't done for a couple weeks so I better go do it. I know it's still liquid because it sets on my loading bench so I don't forget to shake it up and flip the bottle....most of the time.
No, I'd open the jar and pour a couple ounces in the paper cup then put the lid back on the jar. And over the next day or so I would be able to use what was in the paper cup, until it set up.
So I would stop loading for a while. When I had shot all of them and I needed to load some more, I'd open the jar and pour a couple more ounces into a paper cup, then put the lid back on the jar and work out of the cup for a couple of days, until the stuff in the cup had solidified.
Over a six month or so period I got into the jar maybe four times. And when I went to use it the next time, it was solid.
Nobody ever told me about shaking it up, or turning the jar over. Ah well.
Depends on how they were stored. They were slightly wax coated but if left in high-ish heat the wax deteriorated. I have 4 or 5 boxes from my late father-in-law that are approaching 60 years old and they're like new. I have a bit over 1/2 a box of Winchester, 16 bore, 2 1/2 in. paper hulled shells from the 30's and while the box is about gone, the shells are fine. Dad and I sure loaded a lot of them when I was a kid and they always worked fine. They only went out because plastic is....cheap....and paper was cheaper than brass.
Oh, I went downstairs and my waterglass is fine. I shook it up good and turned over the bottle.
Were I was reading about them swelling some and being hard to load or eject was in France during WW1 in the trenches . Field conditions guess is the wording was looking for . I saw some paper cartridges from 1860s that looked like were good enough to go shoot then and there . Not quite the same thing but your right how stuff is stored makes all the difference .
I was just fortunate a fellow German Gun Collector's Assn. member told me because I certainly had no idea. Evidently it works as I haven't used any in 2-3 years and mine is still liquid.
I haven't ever used waterglass but turning the bottle upside down makes sense to me, it's how I store my bottle of Tru Oil after opening it. Keeping it upside down and shaking it once in a while prevents the top of the oil from getting that dried out "skin".
P.S. carbon dioxide is what makes waterglass harden. Don't blow in the bottle.
I haven't used it myself, but it's sometimes mixed with sand and used in metal casting. After ramming the sand you give it a blast with co2 to harden the mold faster than waiting for it to set by itself.
Water glass is good for a head gasket also, seal it right up
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