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Strange Rolling Block???

2K views 53 replies 11 participants last post by  tuckerd1 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm guessing this a #1 1/2. It is smaller than a #1 or #5, but bigger than a #2 or #4. The action is 1.180" wide, ~4.25" long, 25.5" round barrel. This is supposedly chambered in 44-40

EDIT: I realize this is not a 1 1/2, but it is a strange size rolling block smaller than a #1 in a small rifle/pistol caliber.
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#3 ·
The barrel is inside the action so action only holds barrel in place and not the pressure. Im thinking it is fine for shooting as long as the barrel doesn't move around shot to shot.

Maybe its a side ways inclusion stress and not a through crack.
 
#6 ·
Good eye. I didnt see that one. It's a little unusual to see a split or crack down there. Makes me think it has been pieced together from old wasted gun parts.
 
#9 ·
my first thought was i liked this one the best. looks like it may take a few dollars to make it right, too bad!
how long has that 40-65 project been going on? this may be your next money pit. fixing one to make it good to go can be as much of a hoot as a build.
its still early in the game here, just something to get the blood hot.
a good buy, you lucky guy!

rick
 
#10 ·
my first thought was i liked this one the best. looks like it may take a few dollars to make it right, too bad!
Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and let a wall hanger be a wall hanger.
 
#39 ·
There is always more than one way to skin a cat or tighten up a loose barrel, but (and here comes the but) is it worth the cost to tighten it back up and weld it back up and replace the wood and if the bore looks like a sewer pipe re bore or re line and re chamber it? Call me the Anti Enabler, at least on this one. I'd rather instigate a .32-40 with purty wood.
 
#42 ·
On a rebore the bore is reamed out to the next suitable caliber and then chambered and head spaced for the new chambering. Advantage would be no liner that may or may not show up like a sore thumb when you look close at the muzzle or breech, disadvantage would be it will be a different caliber than it was originally. On a reline you ream the bore out big enough to solder or epoxy a liner in the barrel and you chamber and headspace it to the original caliber.
Orange Pink Font Flag Art

A .22 I lined quite a while ago, you can see the liner if you look close, epoxy or solder doesn't blue and it leaves a visible line
 
#44 ·
Rick, if this barrel is a .44-40 it could be rebored to .45 Colt, taking it from .429 grooves to .445 in the bore would likely clean it up and then rifled to .452 groove depth and chambered for the Colt round. The rim diameter is slightly smaller on the Colt so the extractor might cause an issue unless you replace it or build it up.

Dave, I've seen some re line jobs that you couldn't see the line on the muzzle but you could at the breech. There are tricks that can be used on the muzzle, unfortunately I didn't know them when I did that .22, that was the first one I ever did. I think Joe gave me a smoking deal on that rifle (it was free and so was the liner) because he knew I'd teach myself how to line a barrel on a gun that didn't belong to somebody else and I wasn't worried about ruining a customer's gun. I learned later how to peen the muzzle to make the parting line less noticeable and to skim a couple thousandths off the face of the muzzle on the lathe to get rid of the peen marks.
 
#45 ·
Grizz, the one you pictured looks good. I'm trying to figure out how they got such a close fit on mine, and still had room for solder? Heat the barrel, and freeze the liner? But you still have to heat it up to get the solder to flow?
On the re-bore you mentioned above, do you follow the same twist? Or drill the existing bore and twist out before you cut the new one? I've only seen it done once, kinda, I was in Jacks shop while he was doing it, and not paying full attention working on my own stuff.
 
#46 ·
I used a piloted gun drill to enlarge the bore and then reamed it to the size of the liner, the liner was twisted for 1:16 twist. The liner was .375 I spun the liner in the lathe and skinned a couple thou off of it with rough sand paper so the epoxy would stick and I left the muzzle end .375. I slid it in from the muzzle so it slid in fairly easy. I later learned to grind the end of a hardened center punch to a ball end punch to lightly peen the barrel just outside of the liner to make the metal flow toward the liner to close up any gap. Chuck it up in the lathe, dial it to center and skin the peen marks off and crown it while it's dialed in. BTW I use a spider on the end of the head stock and dial both ends of the bore to center before turning the muzzle or the crown. If the muzzle ain't dead nuts on, it might not shoot so good.
 
#47 ·
I forgot to mention, I didn't make the liner, Joe had about 50 of them he got who knows where, they are about 6 feet long and .375 OD and twisted 1:16, once I skinned a couple thou off the OD it slid right in except for the quarter inch or so I left full size, I had to tap it with a leather mallet to get the last little bit in. That's why you can see the parting line better at the breech. If I'd have known about gently peening the barrel, you'd never have seen the line at the muzzle. :)
 
#48 ·
so this is done with the barrel removed? the machining skills needed here are not learned overnight. i have always been fascinated with the knowledge needed in a machine shop. worked in one in Plantation Florida at a very young age. then went to the dark side and became a construction worker. strange how life works out.
thank you

rick
 
#49 ·
so this is done with the barrel removed? the machining skills needed here are not learned overnight. i have always been fascinated with the knowledge needed in a machine shop. worked in one in Plantation Florida at a very young age. then went to the dark side and became a construction worker. strange how life works out.
thank you

rick
#4 Solid Frame re-line
 
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