1911 trigger kits

Egw makes the best sears. hammers are best from wilson, ed brown, sti, c&s and egw. sear springs are all about the same to me, its how you tune them that makes them work well. replacing these parts does not guarentee you a great trigger. 1911s need their parts closly matched and tuned to get it right.

 

Are you looking to build a match-grade pistol or just a good solid daily shooter?

If you want a very decent quality drop-in/semi-drop-in kit, check out the Nowlin kits.
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...s/1911-auto-drop-in-trigger-job-prod9578.aspx
I've used the Commander kit on a Springfield and the ProMatch kit on a Taurus PT1911 with good results. Both of them turned out nice enough that I didn't do any fine-tuning or fitting on them other than fitting the safety. (I installed new safetys on both of these pistols since I'm a southpaw and needed an ambi).

I've never used the C&S kits. I'm not impressed with their safety levers though so I really haven't used any of their other parts.

Several years ago, I pieced together a new action for a series-70 Colt with assorted individual parts. Wilson, Clark, etc.
That was my first 1911 job so I spent a LOT of time being mentored through it by a local smith and I botched a couple parts until I got em right. It turned out just fine in the end but was a lot of hand-fitting. Without the proper jigs/fixtures it's pretty tricky, if not impossible, to fit oversize parts to your gun.

Helix is spot on about it not being a real easy job to get a match-quality trigger.

 

i've another thought on this ..

but is the action re setting and the hammer dropping ?

or is the action not coming all the way back , not loading a round ?

 

The Nowlin kits are nice but please note on them that they state 3lbs does not mean you will get 3lbs. Every frame can be slightly different which can alter sear engagement and spring weights

 

On the two that I've used (Taurus and Springfield), all of the parts were direct drop-in. Not as nice and tight as custom-fitted parts...but that's how they size them so they will be drop-in parts with no major fitting needed. You might need to do a bit of minor fitting on your particular frame. I don't really know that much about the Umarex frames so I can't say for sure.
The slightly smaller dimensions ensure drop-in fit at the expense of being nice tight-tolerance parts. Usually, for a ordinary working gun this is plenty good enough.
If you're thinking about target work though, I would do more customized fitting with oversize (not drop-in or semi-drop-in) parts instead.

A very good recommendation before you start would be to check out a several of the AGI 1911 pistol DVDs...or the whole series if you're really inclined.
-First one is by Bob Dunlap. It covers the basics of the 1911 theory and teardown but not much on in-depth parts fitting.
http://www.americangunsmith.com/app/products/view/1/Colt-191145-Auto-Pistols
-Second, and the top recommend on my list is Troubleshooting 1911 Style Auto Pistols.
http://www.americangunsmith.com/app/products/view/191/Troubleshooting-1911-Style-Auto-Pistols. this one is a very good one to have on the shelf for troubleshooting and problems you've got or might have.
-Volume 3 of their full course is the most applicable to the parts replacement that you're planning though. http://www.americangunsmith.com/app/products/view/21/The-Ultimate-1911-Video-Course-Volume-1

Yup. Each frame will mount the parts just a bit differently.
On my Taurus, I got 3.25lb (just under 3.5lb) with a bit of takeup and overtravel. The actual sear engagment travel is nice and clean.
On my Springfield, the pull weight of the 4lb Commander kit actually came out at 4.75lb with a lot of initial take-up and way too much overtravel. I still want to replace the trigger on this pistol yet so the overtravel isn't a problem on it at the moment.

 

I've had two Series-80 style 1911s. Taurus and genuine Colt. I never had a problem with the firing pin safety system on either pistol but I've never done a really light trigger.
My Colt was 4.25lb, built for plate/pin shooting. I polished the factory firing pin safety lever & that's it. Been a few years since I've had this pistol...an ex-GF still owns it though.

The Taurus is quite a bit lighter @ 3.25lb. I tried the Taurus both with and without the firing pin safety parts installed and didn't get more than a couple ounces difference in pull weight or smoothness.
I just polished the factory parts (the original lever and new pins), reinstalled em, and never gave em another thought.