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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been reloading for several years. I've been shooting my Marlin Lever Rifle. My first time reloading 30-30 and I managed to trim my cases to 2.016". I realized that per my Hornady manual, I should have trimmed to 2.029". I am loading 170gr. InterLock bullets with a crimp ring. Should I:
- Charge my cartridges, set my noses to the (recommended) 2.53" COL with no crimp, and shoot them individually (not from the magazine)?
- Charge my cartridges, set my noses to the crimp ring, crimp them and go with the shorter overall length?
- Use lower powder loads?
- Punt and pitch my brass?
Thanks!
 

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I would load them as usual and shoot them. My Speer manual shows the trim to length as 2.030 but I can't really see 13 or 14 thousands of an inch causing any problems. I do think I would go with the 2.53 OAL with no (or very little) crimp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would load them as usual and shoot them. My Speer manual shows the trim to length as 2.030 but I can't really see 13 or 14 thousands of an inch causing any problems. I do think I would go with the 2.53 OAL with no (or very little) crimp.
Kinda what I was thinking.....
I appreciate your advice!
 

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I have this when I convert .284Win to 7.5Swiss - the cases are a tad short in the neck. They shoot fine. Should work fine in Thutty-thutty too.
 

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I have this when I convert .284Win to 7.5Swiss - the cases are a tad short in the neck. They shoot fine. Should work fine in Thutty-thutty too.
Unless used in single shot mode or in a bolt action or a single shot, 30-30 ammo needs cannelured bullets and a roll crimp. This is because in tube magazine lever rifles magazine tube spring pressure and recoil will push the bullets back into the case.
 

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I've been reloading for several years. I've been shooting my Marlin Lever Rifle. My first time reloading 30-30 and I managed to trim my cases to 2.016". I realized that per my Hornady manual, I should have trimmed to 2.029". I am loading 170gr. InterLock bullets with a crimp ring. Should I:
- Charge my cartridges, set my noses to the (recommended) 2.53" COL with no crimp, and shoot them individually (not from the magazine)?
- Charge my cartridges, set my noses to the crimp ring, crimp them and go with the shorter overall length?
- Use lower powder loads?
- Punt and pitch my brass?
Thanks!
You didn't state how many cartridges were effected, but if the were mine I'd use them and shoot them. Mark these cases and load them separately from the ones trimmed properly. All that is need is a minor die adjustment to be able to get the proper crimp. Or trim all you cases to that length adjust the die only once to the slightly shorter case and be done with it. When you get a different lot of brass to work with, adjust it back. For the minor difference in the case length, I wouldn't change the load data.
 

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You didn't state how many cartridges were effected, but if the were mine I'd use them and shoot them. Mark these cases and load them separately from the ones trimmed properly. All that is need is a minor die adjustment to be able to get the proper crimp. Or trim all you cases to that length adjust the die only once to the slightly shorter case and be done with it. When you get a different lot of brass to work with, adjust it back. For the minor difference in the case length, I wouldn't change the load data.
I quit at 40. (I figured that was enough) :(
Good Advice. Thank You for your response.

Unless used in single shot mode or in a bolt action or a single shot, 30-30 ammo needs cannelured bullets and a roll crimp. This is because in tube magazine lever rifles magazine tube spring pressure and recoil will push the bullets back into the case.
You are exactly correct. I totally agree.
TY
 

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I'm with Howlin' - Load them and shoot them. They'll grow if fired and resized often enough.

They *should all be trimmed to the same length* and crimped. Most of the time, case neck tension is plenty enough to hold the bullets. If it were me - I load them up and fire them as usual. If any bullets seat deeper into the cases from recoil in actual use - then I'd consider it a problem.
 

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Kinda what I was thinking.....
I appreciate your advice!
You may get a little extra "drek" around the chamber neck, from the gap, but it shouldn't be a problem, all the same I would use mild loads, The .30-30 is known to "stretch" a bit on resizing, so full length sizing would probably be a good idea, and may stretch you back to spec. The brass on .30-30 cases is thin and easy to work.
To prevent that from happening again, I suggest you look into one of Lee's excellent caliber-specific case sizers, these work great in my battery operated screwdriver that has a 1/4" hex shaft for the bits, the Lee sizer plugs right onto it, and you can't trim too much off the neck with them. They have a pin that goes thru the primer hole which butts onto the steel case head holder, with the cutter head on the opposite end, and it can only go into the case neck the correct amount. (Of course always deburr the necks, inside and out afterwards--) I use these on all my rifle and pistol cases, and they are really ingenious and foolproof. One case head holder works with hundreds of cases, you just buy the caliber specific, screw on case head holder, (comes with the caliber cutter), and they are very inexpensive.
 

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I was just going to tell you that you need a good crimp on your 30-30 because of your tube magazine. But I just noticed you have been told that. But they will shoot fine.
 

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Unless used in single shot mode or in a bolt action or a single shot, 30-30 ammo needs cannelured bullets and a roll crimp. This is because in tube magazine lever rifles magazine tube spring pressure and recoil will push the bullets back into the case.
Yep, standard procedure, no problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank You All for your input.
Looks like I may be able to save a few bucks.
I'll load 'em and shoot em". I'll not push the loads too much.
 
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