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That would have been better, more clear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just my opinion here, I don't understand why you'd want to go through the effort of hand loading black powder for your .38 and not do it right. Just buy the correct brass

$20 for 100 cases
Starline Brass 38 S&W Unprimed Bag of 100 - Graf & Sons

And the correct bullets at $40/500
MISSOURI BULLET COMPANY CAST 38c (.361) 145gr RN .38 S&W 500/BX - Graf & Sons

And have yourself a lifetime supply?

I have two old IJ's I occasionally shoot and it's fun. Enjoy bringing that old girl back to life.
He has two antique pistols, one is a Smith & Wesson chambered for .38 S&W the other one is in .38 rimfire
I have. ! And 38 S&W brass is Expnsive over here in my part of the world.
9 MM rimfire shotgunshells can be made functionable ( Now i'm mixing the threads again). I'v done it.
To even buy a bullet over here i need a license, and everything cost me.
I'm Not looking for the optimum solution but the most practical.
I Have found it now and i can give more info. on this if anyone want to hear.
P. S. "The only lifetime supply is the supply that you can provide yourself"
 

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Boy, it’s been a couple years since we talked about this. Glad you found a workable solution and I believe at the time we couldn’t tell where someone was from. Also don’t recall your mentioning your location. In any event, sounds like you’re good to go. My point in saying “you’ll have a lifetime supply” was that I’m pretty confident the gun(s) would shake apart long before you wore out the brass. Straight wall cases take a loooooong time to fail and with the little “bunny fart” loads you’ll be using in a 38 S&W your grandkids could be using them. Now that may be an exaggeration but you probably understand the point I was making.
Happy Shooting
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Boy, it’s been a couple years since we talked about this. Glad you found a workable solution and I believe at the time we couldn’t tell where someone was from. Also don’t recall your mentioning your location. In any event, sounds like you’re good to go. My point in saying “you’ll have a lifetime supply” was that I’m pretty confident the gun(s) would shake apart long before you wore out the brass. Straight wall cases take a loooooong time to fail and with the little “bunny fart” loads you’ll be using in a 38 S&W your grandkids could be using them. Now that may be an exaggeration but you probably understand the point I was making.
Happy Shooting
Thanks for being there and fast also. Yes i have used Fiocci 38. spl. Wad Cutter brass, trimmed down to right lenght. Shell casing is thinner so to avoid a too big bullet expanding the casing too much. 38Spl. was too thick walled so they didn't chamber in 38 S&W chamber. Wad cutter brass works good but somewhat more pressure lost backwards. I hope they expand a little, after some reloading. I use about 3-4 grains of black powder. Not very much but not a heavy load (I Think).
 

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If you’re not you may want to anneal the cases. 38 Special brass will be thicker the further toward the base you get. Annealing will help soften things up and could help prevent case splitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
If you’re not you may want to anneal the cases. 38 Special brass will be thicker the further toward the base you get. Annealing will help soften things up and could help prevent case splitting.
That's why i use wadcutter brass. It come from factory with a very light load ( The shell is thinner).
I'll keep it this way now for a while. Then, after some reloads i'll see what happens.
It's not the optimum solution but it work.
I have some American"Starline" brass also but it's 50 c. apiece.
 

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Now that’s a little odd. I wouldn’t have thought the brass any different regardless of the bullet being used. Be kind of expensive to have to reset all the tooling not to mention manage the inventory producing two types of 38 Special brass. If you have a chance how about posting a picture of the head stamp?
 
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