450 crown/muzzle brake question

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by zkovach, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. zkovach

    zkovach Well-Known Member

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    i currently have an 11 degree target crown on my barrel, if I put a muzzle brake on it will it change accuracy? If yes would a clamp on brake alleviate that issue? This is a bolt action set up. Any info is very appreciated.
     
  2. PRR1957

    PRR1957 Well-Known Member

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    More than likely that it will affect the accuracy of your gun. It may improve, but more likely degrade the accuracy. Adding a weight to the end of the barrel will change the harmonic of the barrel when the gun is fired.

    If you hand load your ammo, you have the ability to tune your gun again through adjusting your powder charge up or down. (Make sure your not already at a max charge. If so, only down) Also try adjusting the bullets seating depth in or out. (Make sure your not already to close to the rifling.) Or, go to a lighter or heavier bullet. Trying a different gun powder could also help.

    As far as attaching the muzzle brake. I'm not a fan of clamp on type. They have a habit of loosening up do to the expansion of the the barrel when it heats up and then cools down. Now if the last three or four inches of your guns barrel is not tapered, you mite be able to move the clamp on type fore or aft to maybe help tune the barrel much like the tuneable muzzle brakes on the Winchesters or Browning rifles. Be careful though that you have enough of the clamp on the barrel to make sure it doesn't come off when fired.

    A better solution is to have a comptintant gun smith thread the end of the barrel to attach a screw on type of muzzle brake. If done right it will stay on the barrel. Make sure use LOCKTITE 2620 or 272. This will assure that it will not come off the barrel.

    Another solution to help manage recoil, is to go with a stock that has less drop in comb on the butt stock. This will make the gun recoil back more in line with bore of the gun. The Pachmayr Decelerator Pre-Fit butt stock pad is something else to consider. If they have one for your gun, all you have to do is unscrew the pad from your gun and screw on the new one. I installed one of those on my Remington 700 VS in .308 and can shoot that gun all day long.

    I hope I didn't inundate or intimidate you with all of this info, and I'm sure some one else will chime in with something I didn't think of.

    Best of luck taming the beast.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2017

  3. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    You may want to quiz any gunsmith who is going to install a thread-on muzzle break. All bores at exit are not necessarily on the same centerline as the outside of the barrel. If the gunsmith uses a die to thread it it will follow the outside diameter of the barrel. Even if he cuts the threads on a lathe, if he does not center the barrel using a four jaw chuck and indicate on the bore then the mounted break may not share the center lines with the bore.

    This is critical because often the bore of the muzzle break is very close to the diameter of the bullet. If the two center lines are not coincident (bore and break) then the bullet will hit the side of the brake and totally screw up the accuracy of the gun. Nothing is more inaccurate than a marred bullet.

    With a clamp on muzzle break there is no way to make the centerlines of the break and the bore coincident.

    Maybe my concerns are over done about the importance of coincident center lines but the above is what I would worry about. My experience with gunsmiths I have used is that they are parts changers with little ability to do accurate machining. My Chinese lathe is not capable of doing an adequate job so I would never take on mounting a muzzle break on any of my guns unless I verified the centerlines to be coincident and I had a good die as my lathe is not good at cut threading to an exact stop point (hey...it was cheap and it worked for years on motorcycle parts). There may be other ways to do it but I'd want the gunsmith to explain them to me in detail before giving him the task.

    LDBennett
     
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  4. zkovach

    zkovach Well-Known Member

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    Well given how it's shooting now and it was an expensive rifle, it's probably best to leave well enough alone. Thank you Guys for the well thought out info!!!
     
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  5. Twicepop

    Twicepop Well-Known Member

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    Something else about muzzle brakes that I discovered by accident. I have a Savage 110/112 single shot that was originally chambered in .220 Swift. For a scope I had a Bausch & Lomb 4000 series 6-24 with the utra fine cross hair and quarter minute dot reticle. I rebarreled this gun to 6.5x55 with a muzzle brake, and shot it a few times and put it away. When I got out the safe the next time, the horizontal cross hair had broken, and kind of looked like a loose droopy hair inside the scope.
    I contacted B & L (then totally owned by Bushnell) about the scope, and they said to send it back for replacement. They sent me a Bushnell 4200 series (these took the place of the B & L), 6-24 scope in replacement. In the waiting period I mentioned this to a buddy that I shoot with, and he said this isn't an unusual thing to happen in guns with muzzle brakes and fine cross haired scopes.
    So a 6-18 Burris went the 6.5x55 and when the replacement scope arrived, it went on a .223 and hasn't given any problems for several years.
     
  6. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    What is common is for an air gun to break a cross hair. Scopes are made to resist recoil but airguns recoil in both directions and the forward recoil part may break the cross hairs of a centerfire scope not designed for that forward recoil.That is why there are scopes expressly for air guns.

    The muzzle break, as I understand it, only reduces recoil and does not make recoil go in the opposite direction like an air gun. So I think there must be something different that happened to the poster's gun/scope.

    Another failure of cross hairs I had was on a 50BMG gun with a brake. It was not the recoil that got the scope (rated for 50BMG!) but the scope slipped in the rings and the scope turret hit the rings. Millet gladly replaced the scope leaving me with an extra set of rings. To finally stop the slipping I had to lap the rings to the scope tube diameter (with a fixture I made on my lathe), use four rings, and LocTite the rings to the scope (purple for minimum hold). Scope no longer moved in recoil.

    I avoid cheap scopes after my bottom of the line Tasco rattled one of its rear element loose while on a 22 (What???). My go-to scope today after years of Leopold and Burris scopes is the Bushnell Trophy series. I find them to be the best scope for the least money of the many I have bought over the years. For my hi-power varmint style scopes I normally buy, I can get a Trophy scope for under $200, depending on the power. I don't care how good a scope is reported to be, I'll never pay in excess of $500 for a scope. I literally can not see the difference. But hey, that's just me. Buy whatever you fancy.

    LDBennett
     
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