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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased some 150gr poly coated lead round nose, a while back, for loading 38 special. The bullet manufacturer recommended a taper crimp. My 38 spl die set only has a roll crimp die, so I started looking for a remedy. My 9mm die set has a taper crimp die, so I checked the manual and the case mouth size is real close, a thousandth or 2. So I seated my bullets without crimping. Changed to the 9mm taper crimp die, ran a round up without the die then screwed the die down until I felt resistance. Gradually ran the die down until I had a nice taper crimp around the case mouth. I did put a light roll crimp on a couple of rounds for comparison. After measuring around the outside of the case mouth there was little to no difference in the measurements. I usually use a roll crimp on my 38/357, but this was the first time I had loaded this type of bullet and was trying to follow the recommendations. The bullets do not have a cannelure, I suppose this is why they recommend the taper crimp, that or the poly coating. Anyway, it seems to have worked. I'll find out next time I go to the range. Anybody else try this?
 

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I don't think I'd load a 150gr 38/357 that did not have a cannelure.. too many options out there with cannelures to go to too much trouble.
 

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I have loaded lots of plated bullets for .357 that did not have a cannular with a slight roll crimp. Just enough to dent the plating but not go thru it, never had an issue with these.
For .38 special any crimp will work as long as it "un-bells" the case enough to fit properly, there is so little recoil the case tension will be enough to hold the bullet in place.

Load 6, shoot 5 and measure the OAL of the 6th.
 

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I use a 9mm hornady seating die for 38 and 357 because it seats bullets better than my lee 38/357 deluxe die set seating die. I use a single station press though.

When I load 9mm cast devistator bullets in 38slp which do not have a cannular I will use the taper crimp option of the hornady seating die to do it with. I have had no issues doing it. My lyman devistator mold drops at .360 so the bullets can be sized for 38 or 9mm. Std 9mm bullets are usually .355 so dont shoot as well from a 38/357 especially with a revolver but they are safe just not as accurate (IMO). Its not suggested to use 38/357 bullets in 9mm though even if resized properly because of the 9mm chamber design and the shape of the typical 38/357 bullet nose is not the same. Using trimmed or same length brass is suggested if taper crimping so the crimps are the same and you dont buckle the brass on the longer cases.

I always crimp in a seperate step and not at the same time as seating the bullet but it can be done with the hornady seating die (OAL is more consistaint that way for me in a seperate step). I use the std lee crimp die when doing roll crimps for all cannalur style bullets in 38/357.

As always - when you pull the reloading handle you are in control of your future and not anyone else. Always use published reloading data and assembly methods and not internet info. The best option is to only use the components as listed in your loading manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do not have a taper crimp die for 38 spl and that is the reason I improvised. Posted for others that want a taper crimp but don't have a die for it. I did put a roll crimp on a couple of rounds for comparison and they were virtually identical. I'm not really worried about the crimp as I loaded 50 with 3.3 gr of WW231 and 50 with 3.1 gr of Bullseye. These are target loads that I will be firing out of a Colt King Cobra with a 6 inch barrel. So there shouldn't be any problem with recoil causing any problems and since these are a new bullet for me, I will be watching closely when at the range. As for not having a cannelure, I purchased these last year at my LGS, just for the above purpose, and at the time bullets were hard to come by. The manufacturer is in Kemp, TX and I ordered 500 9mm and 500 40 S&W, directly from them, took a couple of months for them to arrive. They suggest using cast bullet data for the bullets and a taper crimp die. I was just following their suggestion. I have loaded several calibers that the bullets did not have the cannelure, especially cast bullets, with no issues. Size, prime, charge, stuff a bullet, it goes bang.
 

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I do not have a taper crimp die for 38 spl and that is the reason I improvised. Posted for others that want a taper crimp but don't have a die for it. I did put a roll crimp on a couple of rounds for comparison and they were virtually identical. I'm not really worried about the crimp as I loaded 50 with 3.3 gr of WW231 and 50 with 3.1 gr of Bullseye. These are target loads that I will be firing out of a Colt King Cobra with a 6 inch barrel. So there shouldn't be any problem with recoil causing any problems and since these are a new bullet for me, I will be watching closely when at the range. As for not having a cannelure, I purchased these last year at my LGS, just for the above purpose, and at the time bullets were hard to come by. The manufacturer is in Kemp, TX and I ordered 500 9mm and 500 40 S&W, directly from them, took a couple of months for them to arrive. They suggest using cast bullet data for the bullets and a taper crimp die. I was just following their suggestion. I have loaded several calibers that the bullets did not have the cannelure, especially cast bullets, with no issues. Size, prime, charge, stuff a bullet, it goes bang.
Sorry I had a long write up just above but in short.

When using bullets w/o cannalurs, I use 9mm taper type dies with 38spl and 357 mag reg pressure rounds and dont have issues. As long as the OAL is right and the bullets dont move in the casing while shooting or loading it is fine. They headspace off the rim so it doesnt matter if you taper or roll crimp. I've also used them with no crimp at all and had no issues as long as the case tension is high enough to hold the bullet.

Most rifle ammo is loaded without crimping so its not a new concept.

The rule of thumb is not to roll crimp rounds that headspace on the case mouth. It doesnt mater with rimmed cases.
 

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This problem is why I make about 99% of my own bullets now.
Ps..the cannelure tool I have also helps. ;)
 

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I never understood why people would believe that they have to use a "special " process like using a taper crimp on a bullet that calls for a roll crimp. If the bullet doesn't have a canellue, just use a very slight roll. I just don't get it.













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If the bullet doesn't have a crimp groove or cannelure to roll crimp into and/ or the bullet is coated and you don't want to cut the coating with a roll crimp ... the Taper Crimp die from a 9X19 set will apply a nice taper crimp to bullets loaded in 38 special and 357 magnum ... simple to use and I've been doing it for years .
I have a 358-124-TC-GC NOE bullet mould designed for loading 9X19 . It drops from mould at .3575 .
Sized .357" and perfect 9mm bullet for 9X19 & 38 super ...size that bad boy .358" and use the taper crimp die from 9mm die set to load 38 Special , 38 special +P and 357 magnum . A nice firm taper crimp holds the 124 gr. bullets in place for all six shots in 357 magnum revolver . The gas check allows +1,000 fps velocity with no leading ... the gas check also helps seating softer lead bullet in tapered 9mm case .
A fellow shooter uses it in his 357 magnum lever action rifle with good results . The flat point is larger than a large rifle primer so it is safe in lever guns and the gas check keeps the barrel clean .
It's a sweet little mould , very versatile and accurate . see it at www.noebulletmoulds.com
Gary
 

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Don't get me wrong, I understand reloading. Been handloading and casting my own for years. I just don't get why people insist on using a bullet that wasn't intended to be used.
 
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Don't get me wrong, I understand reloading. Been handloading and casting my own for years. I just don't get why people insist on using a bullet that wasn't intended to be used.
Agreed. Imho..im not a fan of 355/356 bullets in a 38/357...
 

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Agreed. Imho..im not a fan of 355/356 bullets in a 38/357...
All molds are not the same but my 9mm mold drops at .360 so they can be sized for either 358 or 356. So it doesnt mater which you use them in as long as you size them properly. They dont have a cannalur so Roll crimping doesnt work unless you want to cause the bullet to decrease in diameter. You can use a light roll crimp but they dont finish out as good as a taper crimp does.

If you buy a box of 38spl factory loaded ammo in FMJ most will be a 9mm bullet, have no cannalur, and be taper crimped. They dont shoot worth a hoot but thats what they are. Most of the 357 mag FMJ factory stuff has a cannalur but they dont shoot good either (out of my guns any way).

I prefer cast RFP myself or xtps but sometimes I use those 125g HP lyman cast bullets for my Rossi carbine - with a full charge of LG they stroke out at about 2150 fps and make soup out of anything you hit with them and they are just as accurate as the 125 grain xtps and dont cost .32 each. With a gc they cost about .03 each or used too anyway w/ clean WW alloy.

If your saving money, hitting your target, and doing what you want to do, does it really mater as long as its safe.
 

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All molds are not the same but my 9mm mold drops at .360 so they can be sized for either 358 or 356. So it doesnt mater which you use them in as long as you size them properly. They dont have a cannalur so Roll crimping doesnt work unless you want to cause the bullet to decrease in diameter. You can use a light roll crimp but they dont finish out as good as a taper crimp does.

If you buy a box of 38spl factory loaded ammo in FMJ most will be a 9mm bullet, have no cannalur, and be taper crimped. They dont shoot worth a hoot but thats what they are. Most of the 357 mag FMJ factory stuff has a cannalur but they dont shoot good either (out of my guns any way).

I prefer cast RFP myself or xtps but sometimes I use those 125g HP lyman cast bullets for my Rossi carbine - with a full charge of LG they stroke out at about 2150 fps and make soup out of anything you hit with them and they are just as accurate as the 125 grain xtps and dont cost .32 each. With a gc they cost about .03 each or used too anyway w/ clean WW alloy.

If your saving money, hitting your target, and doing what you want to do, does it really mater as long as its safe.
Okay, I get what you're saying, but why do reloaders think that they need a special crimp die? A roll crimp die doesn't automatically make a hard turn inward.
 

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Don't get me wrong, I understand reloading. Been handloading and casting my own for years. I just don't get why people insist on using a bullet that wasn't intended to be used.
Flexibility ... in these days of shortages you have to be able to use whatever you have or can get .
In my case I have a 124 grain mould without a crimp groove that can be sized .357" for 9mm loading or .358" for 38/357 loading . The NOE 358-124-TC-GC if you know how to taper crimp it is a very versatile bullet design and I use it in 9mm Luger , 38 Super , 38 Special , 38 Special +P , 357 Magnum and 357-44 Bains & Davis ... it can cover a wide range if you know how to use the taper crimp die from the 9mm Luger set .
Gary
 

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Flexibility ... in these days of shortages you have to be able to use whatever you have or can get .
In my case I have a 124 grain mould without a crimp groove that can be sized .357" for 9mm loading or .358" for 38/357 loading . The NOE 358-124-TC-GC if you know how to taper crimp it is a very versatile bullet design and I use it in 9mm Luger , 38 Super , 38 Special , 38 Special +P , 357 Magnum and 357-44 Bains & Davis ... it can cover a wide range if you know how to use the taper crimp die from the 9mm Luger set .
Gary
Again! He didn't need to use a taper crimp die for a freakin 9mm, he could've just used the stinkin die from his 38 set!
I'm done! Y'all pi$$ money away for no reason all you want. It's yours, light cigars with it.
DONE
 

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Hmm.. I just grabbed the first 2 boxes of 38 commercial off my shelf federal jhp and Remington tmjfp. Both cannelured. It's about all the commercial 38 I have..

Wow..sizing 360 down to 356.. I bet for thin grease grooves ( lee micro groove ) that essentially makes a swaged smooth side bullet. I'll stick to application specific projectiles..not making one and coaxing it to fit too many things as a compromise.

Again..a cannelure cutter is a nice thing... All my bullets CAN be roll crimped..;)
 

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Don't get me wrong, I understand reloading. Been handloading and casting my own for years. I just don't get why people insist on using a bullet that wasn't intended to be used.
Perhaps because in these times, THAT bullet is what's available to them?
 
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