I saw this on a website and thought the guy had a good idea. I decided I might be able to make this from scrap materials I had. (I am a avid pack-rat). I am not equipped to make this of metal as I viewed it, so I made it out of scrap wood and a piece of 1"X1" aluminum. As in the photo, load a brass case into a hole drilled into the aluminum. There is a hole drilled in each end of the aluminum block to expose about 30 or 40% of the neck end of the brass. An "axle" hole is drilled all the way through at the center. There is a round wood "handle" to spin the block from the hole in the one end ..... to the other end.
1. Start by loading brass into the top hole, with the aluminum block on an angle, about a 10 or 2 o'clock position, rotate the block by turning the handle till the "NECK only" of the brass is being targeted by the tip of the flame from each burner tip.
2. When correct temperature is attained, (discussed later), rotate the block to about the 4 or 8 o'clock position. The heated brass will fall out and the other end of the block will be in position to load the next brass case.
NOTE: There was a lot of "adjusting" (removing wood or adding shims etc), to get the burner tips and the flame tips THE SAME distance and angle from the case NECK!!
NOW the discussion really begins! 1. Correct Temperature for annealing, 2. to cool in water or not. I read a lot of articles and there may be conflicting information out there so I am hoping that a few of you will voice your opinion on this matter and come to an agreed conclusion.
Here is what I did, and I am NOT saying this is perfect. It just seems to work for me.
I bought some "pricey" 750 degree F Tempilaq, a temperature sensing liquid. You might do searches for the cheapest. That stuff is a PIA to remove. Look at the photo and notice a small thin spot, painted on the case side. I stayed away from the neck and the shoulder as it is very hard to remove.
Info I read was; annealing brass happens at 800 to 900 degrees F. SO.. when my spot of 750 degree Tempilaq starts to turn a tan color at the side of the case, at the shoulder bevel, I rotate, and dump the brass out onto an old hand towel. Load the next brass case and continue. CAUTION: Never overheat the brass on the sides, especially near the head.
That is why I put 750 degree Tempilaq on the side up next to the shoulder.
(To cool in water, or not?)... The sources I referenced said that brass being different than steel, water cooling will neither hurt or help the annealing results. It CAN stop heat from migrating toward the head. I personally do not worry about this because I remove from the heat as soon as the Tempilaq starts to change at the edge of the side and shoulder. That is my decision BUT you need to search info yourself, for your own safety.
Indy Bob
PLEASE SEE PHOTOS ATTACHED.
HINT: Don't gob on Tempilaq..use a thin coat.
Use denatured alcohol and/or 0000x ultra fine
steel wool to remove.
1. Start by loading brass into the top hole, with the aluminum block on an angle, about a 10 or 2 o'clock position, rotate the block by turning the handle till the "NECK only" of the brass is being targeted by the tip of the flame from each burner tip.
2. When correct temperature is attained, (discussed later), rotate the block to about the 4 or 8 o'clock position. The heated brass will fall out and the other end of the block will be in position to load the next brass case.
NOTE: There was a lot of "adjusting" (removing wood or adding shims etc), to get the burner tips and the flame tips THE SAME distance and angle from the case NECK!!
NOW the discussion really begins! 1. Correct Temperature for annealing, 2. to cool in water or not. I read a lot of articles and there may be conflicting information out there so I am hoping that a few of you will voice your opinion on this matter and come to an agreed conclusion.
Here is what I did, and I am NOT saying this is perfect. It just seems to work for me.
I bought some "pricey" 750 degree F Tempilaq, a temperature sensing liquid. You might do searches for the cheapest. That stuff is a PIA to remove. Look at the photo and notice a small thin spot, painted on the case side. I stayed away from the neck and the shoulder as it is very hard to remove.
Info I read was; annealing brass happens at 800 to 900 degrees F. SO.. when my spot of 750 degree Tempilaq starts to turn a tan color at the side of the case, at the shoulder bevel, I rotate, and dump the brass out onto an old hand towel. Load the next brass case and continue. CAUTION: Never overheat the brass on the sides, especially near the head.
That is why I put 750 degree Tempilaq on the side up next to the shoulder.
(To cool in water, or not?)... The sources I referenced said that brass being different than steel, water cooling will neither hurt or help the annealing results. It CAN stop heat from migrating toward the head. I personally do not worry about this because I remove from the heat as soon as the Tempilaq starts to change at the edge of the side and shoulder. That is my decision BUT you need to search info yourself, for your own safety.
Indy Bob
PLEASE SEE PHOTOS ATTACHED.
HINT: Don't gob on Tempilaq..use a thin coat.
Use denatured alcohol and/or 0000x ultra fine
steel wool to remove.