I've loaded a fair amount of lead for my .40 cals, don't recall my last load data though, been about a year since I loaded lead in that caliber. I believe I used clays or titegroup, on the lower end of course. Just plinkin' loads...
I do cast and reload a 175 grain bullet for the .40 S&W. I use a Lee bullet mold and lube it with Lee alox lube & one of the "push through" sizing die things. I have shot those bullets in a Glock, which I sold, and a Sig P250 without any problems. A lead bullet does use a little less powder that a FMJ of the same weight. The only other .40s I have loaded have been with Berry's bullets which are plated and are different weights than this lead one.
Copper clad is plated. Plated are loaded the same as cast lead, except sometimes (often) you can load to the mid-range of jacketed bullets, provided the velocity is less than 1200fps.
Personally, I ONLY shoot cast lead or jacketed and have never had any real accuracy from plated (unless they are Gold Dots or other PREMIUM bullets with very thick plating to the same depth as jacketed).
Normally, lead will take less powder for the same performance.
Normally, if you have the right size lead bullets, accuracy will be as good as the best jacketed.
For .40 and .45, the cost of jacketed bullets is so high that I simply have never wanted to waste my money on them and have always shot lead.
Unless you are trying for a power factor, I find 145-155gn bullets best in .40 and 200gn best in .45 (I judge by accuracy at 25 and 50 yards). Some have great success with 185gn bullets in .45, but I haven't.
I prefer SWC for all my lead shooting.
Be sure you have slugged your barrel and be sure that all lead bullets are AT LEAST 0.001" larger than your barrel's groove diameter.
If you get some leading (commercial cast bullets are very hard and can lead your barrel since they won't obdurate at low pistol pressure--so fit is even MORE important than a softer bullet), get some Lee Liquid Alox and apply a very light tumble lube to the bullets. LLA is very "tenacious" and will seal the bore better than the usual lube used for commercial bullets. I have had this happen a couple of times, so I know it works.
Be sure to flare the case mouth enough that NO lead is scrapped off during bullet seating.
I shoot lead bullets in my 10mm and 40 S&W almost exclusively now.. I have three(3) Lee molds, 175gr TC, 175gr TL SWC and a 175gr TC converted to Hollow Point. Both the TC and the SWC drop at 180gr with my WW alloy. The HP drops at 170gr. It's a good idea to weigh your cast bullets so you can use the correct data.
I lube all my bullets with ALOX and Mineral spirits mix, leading is almost nonexistent. To remove what little lead I do Have I use a bore brush wrapped in Chore Boy all copper pads and the lead is gone in just a few strokes.
No need to guess or extrapolate lead data from jacketed, there is plenty of lead data available. Ramshot and Accurate have quite a bit as does my Lyman 4th Edition.
I push my 10mm lead bullets pretty hard, 8.2gr of Sihouette runs a little over 1200fps in my DW 1911.
I am experimenting with Ramshot True Blue in the 40 with my home cast lead bullets. So far the results are very promising.