Broken casing in chamber

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by Raven1, May 10, 2009.

  1. Raven1

    Raven1 New Member

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    I was shooting my 22 Hornet. When I ejected the casing it broke off. Know I have about 7/10 of the casing up in the chamber. I didn't realize it till I went to put the next shell in, which wedged the first one in tight. Any ideas on how to get it out.
     
  2. Ed K

    Ed K Member

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    I can't help with problem but Id'e like to know what your shooting I just got a TC contender with 22 hornet bbl. and several other cal's.bbls. havent shot it yet but maybe tomorrow.
     

  3. USMCSpeedy

    USMCSpeedy Member

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    They make broken shell extractors for different calibres that were designed for this type of thing. I do not recall if the have one for 22 Hornet off the top of my head though. I have also heard that you can use a long wood screw of the appropriate size and just screw it in so it grabs the brass and then pull it out. I haven't tried this mind you and it sounds like if you weren't careful you could damage the chamber. I would see if anyone has an extractor for it. Possibly one for a 223 might work.
     
  4. Raven1

    Raven1 New Member

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    Got it out. I'm shooting reloads.
     
  5. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    Raven1:

    You need to determine why the case separated. The Hornet is a fine little cartridge that does not take to hot rod'ing. If your loads are anywhere near max you need to look for excessive pressure in loads tested at lower levels than what you are currently shooting.

    For others who want to know how to get a separated case out of a chamber, the first attempt should be an oversized cleaning brush. You push it in from the breech end, just far enough for the brush to be in the case remains. Then reverse the pull on the cleaning rod and the brush bristles will lock into the case and grab it allowing you to pull it out.

    That didn't work? Then find a common tap size that is smaller than the chamber but bigger than the inside of the stuck case. Thread the tap into the case till it catches by several threads. Then use a cleaning rod stuck down the muzzle resting on the tap. Gently tap the free end of the cleaning rod and the separated case will come out with the tap. I recently had to use this method (recommended by a good gunsmith) on a relic 303 Brit Enfield and it really works as does the brush method I had used multiple times before on other guns. (I tend to re-use brass too my times for some calibers and occasionally pay the price).

    LDBennett
     
  6. tony fifer

    tony fifer New Member

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    i am having the same problem in my 7mm ultra mag and cant figure it out im not loading it to the macs i think its the casing but not shure if any one can help let me know thanks
     
  7. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    tony fifer:

    Belted magnums (is that what you have??) are only good for a couple reloadings before the head separates from the case body. It is because the case headspaces on the belt and the chambers are long. When fired, the case expands to fill the long chamber and eventually (about 3 reloads) stretches and separates the head of the case from the body.

    You can limit the reloads and just dump the empties or you can size them such that you only push the shoulder of the cases back a couple thousandths or you can forget about owning any of the belted magnums, as I have. I have a 7mm Mag and it is tough on cases. I try to not full length size the cases but case life is only marginally improved. I'll not have another belted magnum cartridge gun.

    LDBennett
     
  8. accident

    accident Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I can second that emotion. Joe
     
  9. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

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    For starters, the 7mm UltraMag isn't a belted magnum. It's one of the big fat buggers that Remington based on the .404 Jefferies case.


    As for why the cases are splitting...
    Does the rifle do it with factory ammo, reloads, or both?
    The RUMs are big high-pressure cases, but like an AckleyImproved version of anything they're fairly straight-walled and sharp-shouldered so case life should be normal to better than average...in theory. :)
    If the chamber is a bit oversize or your cases are being sized back a bit too far, then it is fairly certain that you'll get case head separations. Without more info it's hard to pinpoint a cause.
    If it's happening with factory ammo too then I would contact the manufacturer or at least set up an appointment with a gunsmith that has a set of headspace gauges for the cartridge.
    One of my coworkers has a .300RUM...similar to the 7mmRUM. It doesn't get fired much so he's not real sure on case life yet. He replaced a .30/378Weatherby which IS horrible on cases (typical belted magnum?) and throat life.




    Welcome to TFF Tony!
     
  10. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    you could go with 416 rigby :)
     
  11. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I know there are un-belted magnum cartridges. At one point in time I was searching out what I though a better choice: 9.2 x 63. But I could not really find a need for it so I let the idea go. My thumper cartridge currently is 35 Whelen in a Remington pump. It is loud and pushes hard.

    Belted cases are a solution to a non problem that has unintended consequences.

    LDBennett
     
  12. m77user

    m77user Well-Known Member

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    Although I do not have the wealth of knowledge that many members on this forum have, I have experienced a case head seperation with an 30-06 necked down to 6.5-06. My fault as I did not do an adequate inspection of the rounds that came with the rifle when I purchased it.

    If, LD, or anyone else with the knowledge would care to explain how to check for an incipient head seperation , it may save some future frustration before the case has seperated.

    Thank you in advance. Dave.
     
  13. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    m77user:

    The reloading manuals show you how.

    You take a piece of steel wire like welding rod, sharpen the end and bend it over at a 90 degree angle such that the bent wire will fit through the mouth of the case. You lower the bent end until it reaches the bottom. You then scrape the inside wall of the case with the point. An incipient head separation will make itself known by the feel of the wire as it is scraped along the inside wall of the case. It usually happens in about the bottom of the case about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the rim. But not always.

    Sometimes there will be a bright shiny area about 1/4 inch up from the bottom of the rim on the outside of the case wall. That is where the case is stretching to cause the separation.

    Not all reloading manuals cover everything about reloading, especially the details like this. That is why it pays to own several manuals and read and understand each and every one.

    LDBennett
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2014
  14. m77user

    m77user Well-Known Member

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    Thanks LD. I do not have any welding rod but I will use a straightened paper clip. It should do the same thing. Dave.
     
  15. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

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    Yup, a straightened out paper clip is what I use for checking for possible case head separation. If you wnat a little better feel with it, take a side cutter andnip a bit of the end so you have a nice sharp edge instead of the squared off end that the clip was made with. That'll let you find those little divots inside the case easier.

    Besides in the reloading manuals, I think if you dig around in the old posts in the reloading forum I believe there's a thread that has some pictures of sectioned cases showing that thinning. It might've been on another forum but this is my usual hangout so I'm pretty sure it was here.
    This page http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/05/reloading-case-head-separations.html has some good pictures of cases going bad too.

    LD, sorry if my post this morning sounded a little grouchy...it does look that way rereading it tonight. Hadn't finished my morning caffeine injection yet and was sort of rushing to get off to work. :)
    My intent was to clarify that the RUMs aren't belted mags so as not to lead Tony Fifer astray wondering what belt was being talked about. Belted or not, they're still big hotrods that suffer similar problems as the traditional belted mags do. Not to mention they're awful hard on the shoulder! Had a chance to put a few rounds downrange with the .300RUM and I was satisfied after shooting a couple 3-shot groups. I'm glad I don't hunt with one. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2014
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