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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello. i have loaded black powder bird shot in plastic hulls but never buck shot. i have some 0-buck and #1 buck to load. i have some primed cheddite hulls and plan on using a fold crimp on these. just wondering if anyone has done this and what load worked best for you. I do not plan on using any plastic wads, just nitro cards and fiber wads. all my buckshot has been coated in lee alox.
 

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Why do you lube your buckshot?
 

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I would read this before you load anything. Especially the part about it causing rust if you don't clean everything right afterwards.

black powder in shot shells for buck shot
http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html

That being said I love doing it in my 10 gauge. Never tried it in anything else. Since its a single shot break action I can just run the hose down it after shooting. :D
 

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Grump, thanks for that link.

In that article there is a reprint from a 1931 American Rifleman. Check these prices. Aaahhh, the Good Old Days. :D

>It doesn't take much machinery to load brass cases. They have or used to have a little rammer that placed the wads. On one end of this was a pin which pushed out the
spent primers. You can take a light hammer and a stick with the right shaped end and
drive the new primers in. Then you have to use black or semismokeless powder, not
high priced; main cost is the shot. Don't know what that is, about $3 for a sack of 25
pounds,
I guess. Primers used to sell at $1.10 a thousand; about twice that now, I guess.

Wads are regular black edge, cheapest you can get, and should be 11 gauge. You need a powder and shot measure. Shoot 3 drams of black powder and 1 1/8 ounces shot. If you shoot the shells until they expand and get too tight to go in and out of the chamber easily, then you can get a shell reducing die from the Lyman Gun Sight Corporation, Middlefield, Conn. Shells are driven into this and come out the same size they had when new. No trouble about this kind of loading. The cartridges are not fit for actual game shooting; too much smoke, and you have to look for the brass case every time you shoot - cannot afford to throw away a case that might cost you 10
cents,
for all I know. I haven't bought anything of this kind in a long time. All I know
about it now is that the loading is very simple; so is repriming the shells, and the gun is not going to be hurt if you refrain from putting shells into it that are too tight.

================================================

Scanned from The American Rifleman
The Dope Bag
November, 1931 Page 44<

Last brass cases I bought were right at a buck each. 3 dollars a sack for shot. Primers 1.10 a thousand. Not a hundred - a THOUSAND.
 

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shot will run you many $$ nowadays, standard is approaching $50/25lb bag and about half that for reclaim.

primers are commanding at minimum $30/brick but more likely around $45/1000

but the methods never change and brass cases certainly are a great thing for black powder, magtech has 'em all.

buckshot loads don't make much difference other than the space it takes up per weight; generally you need more room for buckshot weight being equal to birdshot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
OK, so from what I get it seems 12 #1 buck is 480 grains or 1.1 ounce. So 82 or 85 grains of FFg BP and 12 #1 buck with Nitro card and whatever wadding it takes to get a good crimp in my plastic hulls (one time throw away hulls). Seem about right? As for the lube on my buckshot, I always lube lead buckshot or bullets. A habit I got from loading pistol bullets to reduce leading. I really got into this as there is no smokeless powder in the gun stores anymore. I have been on the list for over a month and they don't know if or when they will get any. Since I do have a single shot and a double gun I thought I would give BP a try. I used to use BP and Pyrodex in my muzzleloader but Pyrodex turned the bore green by the time I got back from the range/woods. I thought BP would be more corrosive but in my case it didn't seem that way. Pyrodex seemed a bit harder to clean also. Maybe it was just me. Anyway, see anything wrong with my figures above? And to you Old Grump: I would love to have a 10 ga. always wanted a 10 ga double. I don't think anyone makes one any more do they?
 

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Hogdons 1971 black powder manual lists for 12 ga 3 dram (82 grains) with 1 1/8 ounces of shot for 2 1/2 inch length shells and 3 3/8 drams (92grains) with 1 1/4 ounces of shot for 2 3/4 inch shells. All Powder is FFFg.
 

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Pyro is easy to clean but I think you're going to find that alox and bp fouling don't mix well and will be very hard to clean.
 

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For something a little different, there is a guy on you tube who cuts the shell off at the top of the base. After inserting in the breech of a single shot, he muzzle loads it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i didn't think about the alox and BP. that is a very good point.I have never used FFFg, how does it differ from FFg?
 

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i didn't think about the alox and BP. that is a very good point.I have never used FFFg, how does it differ from FFg?
Its a finer granulation which will give you a little more powder when measured by volume. It also burns a little faster.
 

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And to you Old Grump: I would love to have a 10 ga. always wanted a 10 ga double. I don't think anyone makes one any more do they?
My gun is a single shot H&R ,ode; 176 with a 36" barrel. It is so much fun to shoot it should be illegal but it is a bit pricy when you pull back on that trigger. It has a full choke and does not shoot buckshot well but #3 steel shot and anything smaller makes beautiful patterns. The only double barrel guns I have are a pair od antiques that I won't shoot and a 12 gauge Amadeo Rossi SA. Overland model.

First double barrel gun I ever shot was a 10 gauge, in fact it was the first shotgun I ever shot, knocked me on my keester and broke my nose. As far as double 10's Dixie gun works sells a black powder muzzle loader Pedersoli Double Barrel 10 Gauge Shotgun for $1095. Since you want to shoot black powder there you go, its already set up for it.
 
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