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I have no experience with coconut oil but with castor oil that ratio would be too stiff.
 
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I suspect that is your body heat softening it.....uhhh....that would be the case with castor oil anyway. Those oils have different properties and I'm just plain ol' ignorant about coconut oil.
 
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Discussion Starter #66
I suspect that is your body heat softening it.....uhhh....that would be the case with castor oil anyway. Those oils have different properties and I'm just plain ol' ignorant about coconut oil.
Coconut oil is pretty much the same. It’s kind of like Crisco in consistency and melts fairly easily.
 

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I did not know that about ccn. oil. Castor, mineral, sweet and olive oils are liquids of different viscosities and I just assumed ccn. oil was as well. Eh, you'll know if it's too stiff the first time you use it. After the first shot it won't matter anyway...lol! I think the flash from the barrel cylinder gap melts and/or blows out most of the solids and leaves a....a....an adequate amount of nearly liquid lube over the ball and the cylinder chambers.
 
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Me, I never liked the mess of lube over the ball, I used lubed felt wads. Lots cleaner and never had a chain fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Me, I never liked the mess of lube over the ball, I used lubed felt wads. Lots cleaner and never had a chain fire.
I have lubricated felt wads but I want to try my hand at making some simple cartridges as well. Those eliminate the option of lubed wads and require some bullet lube over the chambers.

Also I plan to use this as gun oil when I clean the thing.

I think I’m definitely gonna need to add more oil. After it fully cooled and hardened, it got really stiff. I can still mold it with my fingers but it’s not as pliable as it was when still slightly warm.
 

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Just use oil after a cleaning. I use the wife's canola oil and I've used her Crisco for lube. I also use her canola oil on carbon steel knife blades after washing them to keep them from rusting, you don't want petroleum oil on knives you use to prepare food with.

I do have a small stash of sperm whale oil, but I save that for my Sharps action. :)
 

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I used good old fashioned soapy water, a little ballistol on a patch every couple rounds made clean up later alot easier. this whole conversation got me to thinking. so i rolled all the across my office to my book shelf (about 3 feet). where i had the the Gun Digest Black Powder Loading Manual revised and expanded edition (long title). Circa 1991 based on the clothing and pictured powder cans im think 60s mabye 70s reprint. Anywho I read through and then read through it again, Nothing, Nada, No mention on cleaning a whole section on lubes and loads but nothing on actually cleaning the only mention was Hot soapy water was the best for removing powder fowling and build up the hotter the better.
 

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Yep Grouse, hot soapy water is the best black powder fouling solvent there is. The hotter the better, but don't scald your hands, it doesn't need to be hot enough to be a danger to you but it does need to be hot enough to be uncomfortable.
 

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Me, I never liked the mess of lube over the ball, I used lubed felt wads. Lots cleaner and never had a chain fire.
I'm with you on that. Home made wads from wool felt soaked dumped into a pot of melted lube. I think I use about 1-2 teaspoons of melted lube for 100 felt wads.

I get the wool felt from ebay, cut wads from it with a suitable hole punch. I see wadcutters advertised, but they are too expensive for me. Best wad punch I have found is a brass garden hose connector with the bit that goes into the hose sharpened with my case deburring tool.

With these wads I don't have the greasy bore butter mess to contend with on my hands or on the gun, and don't have that mess to clean up at the end of the day.
 
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