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Feed Problems with a Jennings .22

55K views 33 replies 14 participants last post by  gdmoody  
I recently bought a couple Jennings .22 auto pistols. One is fairly new with black grips, nothing fancy. The other you can tell is much older with wood grips. The wood gripped gun has a feeding problem for some reason. It does it with all different ammo and with both mags that came with the gun. Sometimes it will feed fine and other times it hangs up with FTE, and will also catch spent round as it feeds the new round. Is there anything that i can do besides get rid of it?

BTW I have been a lurker for a few months but finally took the time to sign up! I have already learned a great deal here and cant wait for whats to learn from now on!
Zach
first try disassembling it, cleaning it really good, then oiling it. The first time mine acted up, that fixed it. If it still acts up, the gun needs a new SLIDE. Mine is at the point, it needs a new slide.

The slides on J22's are soft aluminum alloy, eventually the bolt face of the slide gets worn and pounded in from the hardened barrel breach, and starts having feeding/extracting/ejecting problems. What happens is, the slide starts moving to far forward when closed, and the extractor is forced outward to the right, disengaging the case head rim.

Then it doesn't extract. The force of firing may blow the empty shell out of the chamber and backward, but it sits inside the gun or stovepipes, and jams the gun, because it doesn't hit the ejector rod squarely.

If you change the slide, change the extractor claw too. Save the old stuff for comparison.

You can buy them at Numrich online. The slide is about $25, the extractor around $4.

For $35 the J22 will be shooting again. But keep in mind, the slides on those guns are totally sacrificial, i.e. the more you should them, the faster the slide wears out and has to be replaced. The slide starts to bow on the right side, and the snout of the slide starts to bend upward slightly, as they get worn. That's how bad my J22 is now, after about 2000 rounds.

if the slide was hardened steel, they'd last forever. But then they'd be a $300 gun, instead of the $75 gun they were new.

They are worth fixing because for a short barrel 22, they are quite accurate, and a handy little pocket gun. Just don't carry one with a shell in the chamber. I carry one while fishing, loaded with shotshells, for snakes. It's like a little shotgun.

The previous warning about closing up headspace on a worn early slide, is CRITICAL. I have one that experienced that problem. I had 2 slam fires just chambering a round from a fresh clip, fortunately the gun was pointed in safe direction both times, by instinct and habit, and the bullets just went in the ground. I also had a few CHAIN FIRES i.e. 2 or 3 shots going off from one trigger pull, because the closing up of headspace causes the gun to slam-fire. To clarify, the bolt face begins to wear, and the flat distorted bolt face, fires a fresh round upon chambering it, without the firing pin.

Another mistake made with these guns, is using a stronger slide spring. That makes the slide slam forward even harder, wearing it out sooner, and making the risk of a dangerous slam fire even more likely. Use the weakest slide spring you can, that will still make the gun function. A weaker slide spring, will allow shooting lower velocity ammo, and be easier on the relatively soft alloy slide.

FWIW, my Jennings has s/n 500,xxx range and still had the defects, and slam fires/chain fires. A new slide will fix the problem, but being soft aluminum alloy, eventually the new slide will also wear. The new slide will just last longer than the old slide did pre-70,xxx serial number. I have heard stories of the old slides starting to malfunction after only 50 rounds, i.e. one box of ammo.

A good approach for these guns would be, start with headspace on the high side- as the headspace closes up with slide/bolt face wear, rather than opening up like most other guns do.
 
after the range test.. I was givin my certificate and sent home.. the other guy had to stay untill he could get some shots on paper. so far hea had almost non staying on a silo target all day.

IMHO.. it likely was more of the operator than the tool error.. but still.. I got a good laugh that my pawn shop 150$ gun with basic ramp milled sites was doing much better than the expensive yuppie model.. :)
My observations exactly- amazing how accurate the Haskell is, it has so much meat in the slide and frame, it's inherently sturdy.
 
If it was mine i would incase it in acrylic. and use it as a papper weight.
had one when i was 19 by the 3rd clip the slide came flying off.
Never again will i by a cheep gun.
once you take the slide off, and understand what's going on and why, it's actually pretty easy to fix. The slide and rails need to be greased, and the extractor to barrel, and headspace tuned up. Then it's no different than any other, just the lifespan of the parts is shorter.
 
yup.. it's 'heft' and weight actually let you keep / put more shots on target with lower time between fireings, when doing rapid fire test.. the gun simply weighs a ton and don't recoil much.. thus less correction for followup shots needed.. :)
yeh I take the Haskell out shooting with my kid, he calls it "the brick" because it's as heavy as a brick
 
had a jenning .22 like the wood grip one you mentioned, carried it for 2 years as a plink and snake gun. always jammed unless you used CCI hyper velocity in it, got so i could keep the shots inside a 8" paper plate at 30 feet. was deadly on a snake with birdshot, but jammed every shot..not enough uumph to the shotshell to cycle properly. wore that gun out with over 4000 rounds through it! then traded it for a Jennings .32 which I later sold for $50..hated that .32....
if you cut a few coils off the main slide return spring, to lower the pressure, it will eject with even the lowest power 22 LR or shotshell loads.

I think they put the strongest spring in to handle the most high powered loads, but that means the tension is too high for std. loads

high end semiauto firearms have adjustments for different level of power loads
 
i have one of these bought many years ago also. I small part was lost while field cleaning once. Is there anywhere I can send the gun to have the part replaced?
if you sent it out, it would have to go to an FFL to be repaired, because legally you cannot ship a handgun to another resident to fix. And in some states, it has to be shipped from an FFL, to an FFL.

I would go to Numrich, and just buy the part. They have most of the parts. I just bought a slide, extractor w/spring, and mainspring from them.
 
Welcome to TFF, Chadk; post #16.

Go back up this thread to post #2 and follow the link. There is an exploded drawing in thew manual.

Numrich Gun Parts has parts.

In consideration of the fact that there was a lawsuit verdict of over $30 Million, around 2003-04 concerning a Jennings designed pistol, where the gun-shop that sold the pistol got hit with $5 million of the verdict; few gunsmiths are willing to work on them. I will neither work on one or transfer ownership of one, unless someone in FL wants to give one to me in FL, when I am there.
the gun shop had to do something to the gun, to get blamed, because by law FFL's have immunity from anything that happens from use of a firearm after they sell it. If they changed the gun in any way, or added a feature, aftermarket clip, sights, or did a trigger job, etc. then they may be liable. Or if they could prove they had knowledge of the defect and still sold the gun, maybe.

if it was a J22, probably a slam fire, or chain fire, or carrying it with safety off and it fired and shot the guy carrying it.

I have had $1500 high end Sako rifles, $200 Mossberg shotguns, and $50 Jennings J22 pistols all slam fire on me, for various reasons- worn hammer springs, defective sears, worn bolt faces, etc. Fortunately I had the muzzle pointed in a safe direction at all times, and the shots went harmlessly downrange or into the ground. Any firearm can go off accidentally, they are not foolproof.

The main 16 inch guns of the USN battleship Iowa misfired and killed everyone in the turret, that was after they modernized the entire ship for millions of dollars. It had a crew of over 1000 highly trained sailors on it. Didn't matter...

It happens. Firearms can be inherently unpredictable a tiny percentage of the time, due to various mechanical defects as the gun gets older and parts wear. Keep the muzzle pointed down and away, in a safe direction, and when it happens to go off accidentally, no one gets hurt.
 
yeh a Haskell can be used as a club practically....or a bludgeon

I like mine. Cheap stuff that works well means someone did more with less. But I may sell it someday soon to use the money towards a nice 1911.
 
So it is basically an early version of a hi point?
by what I can glean, yes. Supposedly the Haskell is in one of the old Terminator movies being worn by the adult John Connor in one of the film sequences.

a reliable 7 shot, 45 auto for $160, how can one go wrong ?

there's 2 ways to make something stronger, use better material, or make it bigger. With the Haskell, they made it bigger.

the mainspring is so strong it's difficult to pull back and chamber the first round, you really have to grab it tightly, but with all that spring pressure it'll chamber anything. And they feed-fire-eject remarkably well. What's even more amazing to me is, how accurate it is.

http://www.gunsamerica.com/91022207...222079/Guns/Pistols/Hi-Point-Pistols/Hi_Point_Haskell_m_JS_45_45_ACP_pistol.htm

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