A friend asked me to get the rust off the hammer of his Blackhawk. One side must have been laying against a water magnet, that side was coated in fuzz. The hammer is white steel, probably not stainless and not blued. It is not mirror smooth polished but has very fine grinding marks. I have rubbed it down with 0000 wool soaked in Corrosion-X. The metal still appears stained. Do you think the corrosion-x will continue to remove the stain or do I need to keep going? Can I remove the stain without polishing the metal? I do not want to change the original finish. Thanks!
Fuzzy rust on a. Ruger Blackhawk trigger.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Re: Fuzzy rust on a. Ruger Blackhawk hammer.
Okay, here is a photo. The hammer is white steel with no blueing. With the hammer back, you can see where the rust stained the portion of the hammer that was outside - the metal is clean where it was inside. Ideally, I'd like to get it stainfree without removing the hammer or polishing it.
Thanks again.
Okay, here is a photo. The hammer is white steel with no blueing. With the hammer back, you can see where the rust stained the portion of the hammer that was outside - the metal is clean where it was inside. Ideally, I'd like to get it stainfree without removing the hammer or polishing it.
Thanks again.
Attachments
![IMG_0223[1].jpg](/d3/attachments/144/144436-7f372767e09a87fc68b0efb698b8a6f2.jpg)
Joined
·
3,588 Posts
I'm not familiar with corrosionx, but if it will remove rust staining it will remove bluing (which is another oxide surface just like rust).
That looks like one of the models with a "raw" hammer sides but the edges are blued.
Looks to me like there is just enough pitting to keep it from cleaning up with just steel wool.
To clean that up, you will need to remove the hammer from the frame. No problem there...a simple job that is outlined in the owners manual.
https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/blackhawk.pdf
You need:
-A couple sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper (400 or 600 grit).
-A flat surface to use as a working surface. (a glass kitchen cutting board works great and is about the perfect size, but any good flat piece of glass will work)
-a bit of water
-your choice of gun oil
-Paste type floor wax to help seal the metal afterwards (optional)
Remove the hammer from the pistol.
-Take a sheet of wetordry and lay it on the glass surfacing block and wet it down with a little water.
-Lay the hammer on the paper and using very light pressure sand with a straight line motion in the same direction as the existing marks. Check your progress frequently...you don't want to remove too much metal, just enough to clean up that pitting and haze.
-Repeat for the other side of the hammer if needed.
-Wash the part in hot soapy water to remove any stray grit and dry well. Pay attention to the sear notches...you don't want to leave some grit in there and give the pistol an unintentional trigger job.
-You can either finish the job with a coating of oil, but I prefer to use paste type floor wax to seal the metal. It's not a permanent seal but is tougher than just a thin coat of oil.
Reassemble and be more cautious about where it gets stored the next time.
That looks like one of the models with a "raw" hammer sides but the edges are blued.
Looks to me like there is just enough pitting to keep it from cleaning up with just steel wool.
To clean that up, you will need to remove the hammer from the frame. No problem there...a simple job that is outlined in the owners manual.
https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/blackhawk.pdf
You need:
-A couple sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper (400 or 600 grit).
-A flat surface to use as a working surface. (a glass kitchen cutting board works great and is about the perfect size, but any good flat piece of glass will work)
-a bit of water
-your choice of gun oil
-Paste type floor wax to help seal the metal afterwards (optional)
Remove the hammer from the pistol.
-Take a sheet of wetordry and lay it on the glass surfacing block and wet it down with a little water.
-Lay the hammer on the paper and using very light pressure sand with a straight line motion in the same direction as the existing marks. Check your progress frequently...you don't want to remove too much metal, just enough to clean up that pitting and haze.
-Repeat for the other side of the hammer if needed.
-Wash the part in hot soapy water to remove any stray grit and dry well. Pay attention to the sear notches...you don't want to leave some grit in there and give the pistol an unintentional trigger job.
-You can either finish the job with a coating of oil, but I prefer to use paste type floor wax to seal the metal. It's not a permanent seal but is tougher than just a thin coat of oil.
Reassemble and be more cautious about where it gets stored the next time.
If that were my rev an I wanted to clean it up a little. I would get me 3 or 4 emery boards an some duct tape. Leave the hammer in the rev. an tape anywhere you might scratch rev..........That hammer looks like it was sanded on a belt sander before assembly. Do the same with you emery board sand in one direction so as to match the sanding marks from the belt sander. You probably won't have to go very deep. If when done hammer looks out of balance mask an do other side....... The worst thing that can happen is you have to send back to mother ship for a fresh Hammer.......Redworm
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!