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I've recently acquired a M&P 9 2.0 in 9mm and have been viewing instructional videos of semi auto hand gun cleaning and there seems to be no end to the different cleaning, lubricating chemicals that these guys are using and they all seem to be partial to what they use. I'm using Hoppes No.9 as a bore and slide cleaner and Rem Oil as a lubricant mainly because that is what I have always used on my shotguns with good results. I'm more concerned about what to use as a cleaner on the top part of the non metallic frame. I was told by the dealer not to spray a lot of any kind of cleaner into all of those little holes and crevices as it would gum up the works eventually. What do you think FF members?
 

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GUNZILLA
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The problem with applying cleaner or oil is that many people will not wipe off the excess stuff. It's like mixing water and dirt and you come up with mud. I don't know your level of experience but you don't have to soak the gun in cleaner or oil. I recommend that you just put a couple of drops on your patch and rub off the residue wipe it dry and than a couple of drops of oil on a patch again and do the same thing. I like to leave a little oil on the metal parts of the gun, when it is in the safe to protect it from rust, but when I shoot it I wipe off the oil first with a dry rag. I clean my guns with ballistol you can use it on anything and lubes the gun as well so it is safe to use on the non-metallic parts of your gun.
 

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I use Mpro7 cleaner and Umbrella corporation lube. I am a minimalist in regards to cleaning and lube. I will clean the parts that get dirty and I will lube the rails, lugs and noticeable friction points. I wipe off composite parts, I dont spray them with anything.
 

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Do NOT spray a cleaner on a polymer gun that's not approved for polymer use either. I was used to using a polymer safe cleaner and accidentally picked up some that wasn't while not paying attention. I almost melted the mag well and trigger guard of a Marlin Camp 9. Yeah, that's sickening.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The problem with applying cleaner or oil is that many people will not wipe off the excess stuff. It's like mixing water and dirt and you come up with mud. I don't know your level of experience but you don't have to soak the gun in cleaner or oil. I recommend that you just put a couple of drops on your patch and rub off the residue wipe it dry and than a couple of drops of oil on a patch again and do the same thing. I like to leave a little oil on the metal parts of the gun, when it is in the safe to protect it from rust, but when I shoot it I wipe off the oil first with a dry rag. I clean my guns with ballistol you can use it on anything and lubes the gun as well so it is safe to use on the non-metallic parts of your gun.
Thank you for the good advice. I have never heard of ballistol, where can I get it?
 

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I use CLP, Hoppe's and Lucas Extreme. The biggest thing with striker fired guns is to keep the striker channel clean and dry.
 

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Ponycar17, you were reading my mind Sir. I already had a comment in mind about melting the mag extension on the Camp9/Camp45. They are notorious for that, if people do not use the correct cleaner on that particular plastic.
 
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You have to be careful with that poly-stuff. The first I heard of to use that were the M16s ("Matty Mattells") during the 'unpopular war'. We found out what certain chemicals do to polymer materials - like the butt stocks and hand guards on our M16s. The G.I. stinky Bug Juice (Insect Repellant) had to be applied to anywhere the mosquitos could bite. We found that when you applied it with your hands - then picked up and carried your M-16 that the "plastic' would start to melt. You cold see the black stains from the plastic on your fingers and palms. Did the same with any plastic (watch lenses, eyeglass frames etc.) There are a lot of chemicals that do the same with polymers.

Don't give me any of that CHEAP crap!. I prefer GENUINE Plastic.
 

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Yep. GI Bug Juice, any DEET product will melt plastic big time. I used to manage a very large Outdoor Adventure Equipment Store. Every so often some Joker would squirt a whole bottle of DEET on the pile of orange plastic trowels we sold, to bury your business. It would melt the whole pile.
 
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Well it's a long way to the nearest store for gun oil and I ran out. So on the outside I'm using WD-40 and inside, sewing machine oil. Getting low on it but have some 3 in 1 in the shop if I need it. For the most part I believe oil is oil!
 

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When I am cleaning a very dirty gun I spray them down with WD-40. I then wipe them down and may do it again if still really dirty. I then re-clean them with Hoppes #9. I then use rem-wipe and Lucas gun oil. I know everyone hates WD-40 but it cleans a gun fast. If I am shooting my shotgun in the rain I spray WD-40 and wipe it around. It keeps it from rusting.
 

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Don, just a heads up. I also used to use WD-40 on occasion. I stopped because quite a few people I know and respect, have told me that WD-40 eventually "Gums Up," and somewhat solidifies in Firearms. I have not used WD-40 on my Firearms in years. I use 3 in 1 oil, and Rem-Oil, spray and liquid. I have also heard that some people swear my Mobil One synthetic.

What do I know? Trapman told me - "Your Target was not that good anyway." 😂
 

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Well it's a long way to the nearest store for gun oil and I ran out. So on the outside I'm using WD-40 and inside, sewing machine oil. Getting low on it but have some 3 in 1 in the shop if I need it. For the most part I believe oil is oil!
No WD 40! ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Don, just a heads up. I also used to use WD-40 on occasion. I stopped because quite a few people I know and respect, have told me that WD-40 eventually "Gums Up," and somewhat solidifies in Firearms. I have not used WD-40 on my Firearms in years. I use 3 in 1 oil, and Rem-Oil, spray and liquid. I have also heard that some people swear my Mobil One synthetic.

What do I know? Trapman told me - "Your Target was not that good anyway." 😂
I had a state cop tell me that he also used Mobile 1 on his side arm with good results.
 
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