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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone please tell me what is a VERY stable gun rest? The $30 one I have from academy is a piece of junk. Its very unstable. I want to get sub-moa groups out to a 100-500 yards with my .223 but the rest I have wont give me the chance. I can send a coyotes head rolling downhill from 250yards but I want to really test the maximum accuracy of the rifles I own. Not my .22's but my centerfire weapons. Thanks for any help
 

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I would also recomend this type of shooting rest, or a sandbag of some sort. Gun rests like the lead sled, and others will cause a gun to shoot to a different POI, than what you get with only the forearm support.
 

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Get a rear bag like this one.

I have a few old leather ones, this one looks like a good one.

These work well. I like to set up the shot just a little high on the point of aim (bulls eye) then I use my none trigger hand to squeeze the base of the bag to raise the butt of the gun to bring the crosshairs down to the bull. Bang.

Don't over pack it with too much sand or it becomes too stiff to do the above.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/679278/caldwell-universal-deluxe-rear-shooting-rest-bag-nylon-and-leather-unfilled

 

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This is the one I use. It is plenty heavy at 20lbs. Caldwell "The Rock BR 1000". Rear bag is a Protektor. The rest has been discontinued but they make another almost like this one.

 

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I use a Caldwell Rock like GunHugger shows for the front, and a sandbag like he shows for the back, only mine is not made by Caldwell. When I am sighting in a scope, I use a Lead Sled.

I like that one gerard built!
 

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For longer shots off the bench, I have a piece of oak 6"x6" about a foot long I put down and lay a sand bag on top of it. For the rear of the rifle, I use one similar like what GunHugger posted a pic of.
 

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That's a fine looking unit you made there!
I was wondering, is there any verticle adj. to the front of it?
The front has about 2 inches verticle adjustment on one side to level the unit side to side, the back end has about 3 inches of verticle adjustment.
The rest has been finshed and used lots since this pic was taken,the straps and butt stock cradle is not shown here. Works really well for sighting in with just two shots
 

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My biggest problem with straping, or locking down a gun when shooting for zero, is that in the field there are no straps, and no way to lock the gun down. Holding it to your shoulder is no where near the same. The gun will now shoot to a different POI.
 

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The front has about 2 inches verticle adjustment on one side to level the unit side to side, the back end has about 3 inches of verticle adjustment.
The rest has been finshed and used lots since this pic was taken,the straps and butt stock cradle is not shown here. Works really well for sighting in with just two shots
My biggest problem with straping, or locking down a gun when shooting for zero, is that in the field there are no straps, and no way to lock the gun down. Holding it to your shoulder is no where near the same. The gun will now shoot to a different POI.
I like the looks of it alot and very nice work!
I'm thinking like Carver...
When I started out shooting a more serious note, the "hold-in-place" devices for the rifles faded with me. I started out with the lead sled that Calwell makes and I still use it to strap a bolt gun in to open bore sight it in.
It seems, and maybe its just the way I got used too, but after shooting one in the lead sled and shooting seveal rounds during the coarse of a day, I'd go to the shoulder and the P.O.I was different

And I reckon too, that I mostly shoot in the field and had to get used to shooting from the shoulder. Most of the time, all I have with me is a trigger stick with a good brace off whatever I have. Mostly, shooting in the sitting position with the trigger stick braced again one of my legs.
 

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I used to use a hikeing stick that is 6' tall, to keep myself from tripping, and falling when walking/hunting in the woods. It makes a good fast rest for long guns, or pistols. My brother bought me one of those fancy trigger sticks, made by Primos, and I love it! Much lighter than my hikeing sticks! 66" when extended all the way.
 

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Thats the same one I use alot, Carver.
I've got a shorter one and it works well shooting from a sitting postion.
One word of caution with the 66" Trigger Stick made by Primos.....(as I found out).
They are made of alluminum and they will bend. They say they will hold, what, 70 or so pounds? Well my first one, and I have NO clue as to how this happened as I seemed to try to always take good care of it.

I came back from a night of coyote hunting a while back and got it out the next day and it seemed to be binding on the bottom section and wouldnt slide in all the way.
Got to looking and it had a "slight" bend/bow in the bottom. (not sure how that happened?) I thought I'd just fix it with some preasure on the bend and almost had it till I went too far. It's standing in the corner now and gotta get it back out and see if I can actually fix it!

***On another note, I have nothing against lead sleds or bench shooting rifle rests at all.
I think its all about a matter of preferance and what type of shooting you do the most of.***
 
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I got mine from a man in PA Made by machinist students at a community college it Cost me $225 and is comparable to rests that cost 3 times as much.

I have seen about 10 Caldwell rests and they were all junk.

"Joseph Cowan" <[email protected]>

Email him it takes about a year to get it but it is well worth the wait.
 

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I got mine from a man in PA Made by machinist students at a community college it Cost me $225 and is comparable to rests that cost 3 times as much.

I have seen about 10 Caldwell rests and they were all junk.

"Joseph Cowan" <[email protected]>

Email him it takes about a year to get it but it is well worth the wait.
I do agree with you that there are "better" rests out there and I have one myself but I don't think the Caldwell rests "are all junk".
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I went to Bass Pro and picked up a caldwell zero max. Cheap rest but VERY stable from my other one. When I get my mig welder replaced Im going to start making different ones. They had a caldwell for about $99 but it has a recoil block like some others and i dont need that. Thanks for the info everybody.
 
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