[TRIGGER PULLER]

I just purchased a H&R PREMIER 32 S&W 5 shot revolver. After looking at the wealth of fine information on this forum about different gun markings and location of such, I have a 7th variation. SN 484XXX is on the front grip frame and under the grip panal. The gun was in good shape and function except the cylinder had some rotational free play. I ordered a cylinder stop from Numrich Gun Parts along with a schlematic of an "exploaded" parts view. The problem is it dos'nt show the parts in proper order of assembly. The original cyl. stop was flat, either bent or broken. I installed the stop with the bow "bump" up. On single action cocking, as the trigger pivots back, the stop bow drops down. Is this correct? There is a moment between the stop dropping away and the trigger half bump engaging the cylinder groove where nothing is holding the cylinder in alinement. Is the stop installed wrong or do I have a trigger problem? Any info and/or pictures would be greatly apreciated.
Thank You!

 

[Empty_Holster]

Our resident expert on these guns died last year. RIP

However, I also have an H&R .32 S&W handgun and according to the expert they all free-wheel. I know mine does - until you pull the hammer back with your thumb or with the trigger. Then it locks up tight!

I got mine years ago when my parents very elderly neighbor died and no one wanted it. It came with two full boxes of ammo. I have not fired it!!

Good luck with yours.

BJ

 

[TRIGGER PULLER]

Thanks for your reply. I'm sorry for your loss. Serching for info on this pistol is how I found The Firearms Forum. Other than looking at the gun and scratching my head, most of what I know about this revolver and the 32 s&w
came from the info shared on this site. So thanks to everyone for your wealth of knowlege. And thank you Conman for your sevice to this country.

 

[fichinstuff]

I have one of these too. I just picked it up recently. Of course it says 32 cal S&W ctge on the side of the barrel but I realize that is the ammo it needs. I see no other markings on it except the number 488 on the cylinder and the serial on the butt #292488.

How do I know it is an H&R? It is a top break gun with a hammer (not dbl action) the barrel is 2½" and it has the circled target emblem embossed in the top of the grips.

Any info on value, or year or anything would be appreciated.

 

[fichinstuff]

Here is the pic.

 

[45Auto]

Triggerpuller: It sounds like the cylinder stop is working properly on your revolver. If it locks up and lines up the chamber with the barrel when the hammer falls then it's ok.

Fichnstuff: Yes, you have an H&R Premier. The name should be on top of the barrel rib unless it is worn off.

 

[fichinstuff]

45 AUto: It is not obvious that there is wear that would have removed the H&R. I have been all over this gun and cannot find their name anywhere.

 

[fichinstuff]

The serial numbers all match so I doubt that it is a Repro barrel. I have had the cylinder off and the grips and do not see H&R anywhere. Can you advise?

 

[fichinstuff]

I am starting to think something bad happened to this gun, like a hacksaw! I can see the remains of "ms co" on the very end of the barrel. It is intriguing because if somebody cut it down it was a long time ago. I also have not seen any of these without all the stamping going almost to the cylinder. This one has none. The slot for the "disc sight" is there but no disc.

I hope this isn't a loser.

 

[fichinstuff]

HERE ARE SOME BETTER PICS

 

[RJay]

Yes, sometime in the past your barrel was cut down. probably from 6 inches. The target grips are H&R and the markings that remain are whats left of the H&R name.

 

[TRIGGER PULLER]

The cylinder stop engages the front of the cylinder and locks the cylinder solid with the hammer down and the trigger forward. As soon as I start to pul the hammer back and the trigger starts to rotate back, the stop drops out of the slot and does not reapear until the hammeris down and the trigger is back in the foward position. (I know I'm repeating myself,sorry) I know the stop has to disengage for the cylinder to rotate to the next chamber, but what holds the cylinder in alighnment at full cock? It appears that the hammer bump rotates upinto the back of the slot but with those HUGH milled scallops, there is'nt a whole lot of slot to engage. Three of the slots lock in
pretty solid, but the other two have moderate side play. I'm wondering that since the orig. stop was flattened coul the hammer bump ue flattened or damaged also. The problem is I've never seen a proper functioning example to know what to look for. Oh well, I'll call Numrich and order some parts and stare at it and poke around until either the light goes on or I build a display case for it.

 

[45Auto]

There are two cylinder stops. One is the sheet steel thing you replaced, which holds the cylinder when the trigger is all the way forward. The other cylinder stop is part of the trigger body which rises from the bottom of the frame as the trigger is pulled all the way back. The hand and the trigger body hump/cylinder stop locks into the cylinder notches at full cock, which is when the trigger is all the way back. Sometimes, the hump on the trigger body can seem to be too short to lock up all of the chambers. This is sometimes caused by a cylinder pin that is bent up too far away from the lower frame. It could also be caused by an improperly installed replacement trigger.

I hope this is of some help.

 

[45Auto]

As to the other H&R, I must agree with RJay. Someone cut down the barrel. However, it does appear to have been professionally done, with a nice looking crown. It is possible that the long barrel was cut back because it had a bulg, such as might happen if the revolver was fired with an obstruction in the end of the barrel. An additional issue is the barrel latch screw which has been replaced with a rivet of some sort. While this might work ok, it's not all that professional.

 

[fichinstuff]

Thanks for the insight on Trigger Puller's and my issues. Can you tell me what my gun is worth? I was going to sell it for $90 if I could but now I am thinking more like $75. Am I off? It is still a shooting gun that is 90+ yrs old.

 

[45Auto]

fichinstuff,

Your cut down revolver is not much of a collectors item anymore. As a shooter, it's worth whatever someone will pay for it. If no one will give you $75.00 in your area, then drop it to $50.00 and see if anyone will buy it at that price.

 

[fichinstuff]

So I sold it for $85. I feel good about that.