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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought this revolver from an auction. I don't have it in hand yet but I will this week. I know it is smoke less because the barrel has 22 RIM FIRE on left side and nothing on right side, not sure on barrel top yet. I understand these old 22's are not made for the likes of CCI MINI MAG rounds with their 1270 FPS velocitys. What about CCI STANDARD VELOCITY at 1075 FPS velocitys. I saw some ammo at 750 FPS but it was expensive. I shoot the mini mags in all my 22's, my Marlin Mod 60 functions 100% with it, so does my Ruger 22/45. After i repair, restore this one, it will be my plinker for backyard squirrels, rabbits, and other pests. The only pics i have are auction pics right now. What ammo would you guys recommend for this?
DL
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok so I understand, what do you consider standard velocity LR. 1200 FPS and under, 1000 FPS and under, or 750 FPS and under? I dont want to shoot shorts. Dirty up cylinder fast. I saw that Aquila had a sniper round? 60 grn bullet with a shorter case. Thoughts on that one. Probably made for a fast twist Ruger semi auto silenced pistol or a Special Forces type of firearm.
DL
 

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Standard velocity in CCI is 1070 fps and in aguila ammo it is 1025 fps, which are good, also subsonic ammo will run around these velocities.
 

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Well, going to go against the flow here- I have one very similar- including the .22RF markings. Patent dates on the top rib are in the 1800s, and seems to be made for .22 Short and .22 Long. The Log Rifle cartridge was a little bit later. And there was the original .22 rimfire, and later the HS- High Speed .22. I would not feed mine Mini-mags- pretty sure mine is better than 120 years old BTW, the Stinger not only has a smaller bullet, but a longer case- so OAL in the same as .22LR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Guys thanks for your responses. Got my pistol in yesterday. It is a small frame pistol. Did not realize it would be that dainty, compared to my hands. I have reduced this little revolver to two plastic bags. This revolver has seen better days, not like my 38 large frame that i carry. I have pretty much identified parts needing replacement. Got two screws that wont budge, so a little kro-oil soak is in order. I will sacrifice one screw driver tip to fit that little screw for the cylinder stop screw. The spring does need replacing along with maybe a trigger to get it to lock up good. Another area I see needs work is the barrel lock up. Now since I am no expert does the latch wear are does the frame wear from use or both? Here are the only markings I find. So can someone age this 22 for me, please. Again any and all advice is appreciated.
DL
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I believe mine is a Second Model Third Variation made between 1909 to 1913. Ser# is 401827, so I assume a latter year model? The cylinder and extractor are marked 405 so i assume someone swapped these out over the years. If the bores clean up then I dont care. The extractor spring is good. Hammer spring is good and stout. Hammer nose looks good. SA sear works good and has a flat type spring not a coil. Trigger return spring is a wire spring replacement, factory or home made I dont know. Lifter and hand seem fine, a little loose, but being over 100 years old will do that. So right now my main concern is barrel lockup and the cylinder stop and stop screw. The cylinder latch has a spring and plunger so I guess it is a new style. So experts, gunsmith, tinkerers, how do you tighten this up, curious minds want to know.
DL
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well i found practically new parts today for this Premiere. A barrel latch with no wear. A cylinder stop and screw. The cylinder stop looks brand new also. So does anyone have a correct picture of how this cylinder stop is installed. The original was rusted off pretty good. A place to start. Any help is appreciated.
DL
 

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The bump of the hook comes up through the bottom of the frame. The fun part re-assembling these buggers, is getting the trigger guard back in with the sear and spring in place. Make a "slave pin" just barely less than the width of the trigger guard, and assemble the sear into it. I put a small piece of tape over the front of the sear to hold it back enough to keep the sear spring in place. When you install the rear trigger guard pin, it drives the slave pin out.
Or you can do it the hard way, and invent new cuss words.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah just plain ole round tooth picks. I had trouble with the small sear coil spring but I put some heavy grease on it to hold in place. Now trigger and hammer together getting lifter in the slot and hand in place all at the same time, well I did have a few new words but I got over it. Now this little small frame, I dont know may be some new words coming. These big 71 year old hands arent quite as nimble as they used to be, but I really do enjoy this stuff. As long as i can find the parts I am happy.
DL
 
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