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I have an H&R Top Break .32 with the following markings:

barrel rib:
HARRINGTON & RICHARDSON ARMS CO.
WORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A.

left barrel: 32 S&W CTGE

Which I believe makes it a 3rd Model AUTOMATIC EJECTING 4th variation (1916 - 1924)

I need any information on where I may find an ejector for this model. The one in it is worn and is allowing the hand to over travel and not properly advance the cylinder all the time. Does anyone have any idea where to find parts if possible?

My gunsmith says he could TIG it and then redo the engagement teeth on it, bit the cost would be far over the value of the revolver. Am I SOL on parts and should I just make it a display piece? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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You can try

www.gunpartscorp.com

and see what they have.

Your gunsmith is correct on the value and I advise not spending any money on that old gun. They were inexpensive guns and intended for limited use; when (not if) they wear out or break, they are generally not worth fixing because as soon as one problem is fixed another crops up. I think it is time to give the old gun an honorable retirement as a wall hanger.

Jim
 

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hello my name is flex i have a old H&R break revolver the makings show
On the barrel:
HARRINGTON & RICHARDSON ARMS CO.
WORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A.

On the side 22 rim fire i need a new cylinder for it and i am wondering where i would be able to perches this piece and also what is the right model of it if you need any pictures just say so and ill upload them....... thanks
 

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hello my name is flex i have a old H&R break revolver the makings show
On the barrel:
HARRINGTON & RICHARDSON ARMS CO.
WORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A.

On the side 22 rim fire i need a new cylinder for it and i am wondering where i would be able to perches this piece and also what is the right model of it if you need any pictures just say so and ill upload them....... thanks
We'll need pictures to ID which model the gun is. We'll also need the serial # too. Normally pre-1940 serial numbers are worthless on dating the gun, but sometimes they help.

H&R made tons of models, and those models had several variations.. ID'ing the model and variation will make it possible for us to find which cylinder that you need.
 

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Another place you can possibly get the parts from is MiGa Gun Parts in Georgia. They have a lot of hard to find parts. Just send them an e-mail and ask them if they have it. They respond quite quickly also.
 

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Hello! Cool forum ya all have here, I'm stoked to be a part of it now. I recently purchased a H&R 38 S&W. It's in pretty decent shape. The research I've done tells me its a Second Model (Black Powder) It's Nickel, 3 1/4" Barrel, Auto ejecting, 5 shot, Target Logo black hard grip, Harrington & Richardson Arms Company Worechester Mass U.S.A. Pat Oct 4 1887, May 14 & Aug,6,89 on top of the barrel with no cal on the left side. Ser# hidden under the cylinder = A74525. I of course have a question or two, maybe three. 1. Should the hammer hold in the single fire position? This one will with coaxing of the little tab behind the trigger in t he back of the trigger guard. I took it apart and saw no spring in there to make the single fire action happen. 2, Of course id like to find parts, the tabs on the back of the cylinder are worn more than I'd like. and looking for a spring for the single fire option...if in fact my theory is correct that it should have single fire in addition to double action. 3. black powder....can this be safely shot with smokeless powder? if not at all, what is your black powder grain recommendation and bullet type? and reloading recommendation? this is a very cool gun and I'd hate to not be able to plink with it. If Its recommended to not use, I will let it go as I don't collect guns for display.
 

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Hello! Cool forum ya all have here, I'm stoked to be a part of it now. I recently purchased a H&R 38 S&W. It's in pretty decent shape. The research I've done tells me its a Second Model (Black Powder) It's Nickel, 3 1/4" Barrel, Auto ejecting, 5 shot, Target Logo black hard grip, Harrington & Richardson Arms Company Worechester Mass U.S.A. Pat Oct 4 1887, May 14 & Aug,6,89 on top of the barrel with no cal on the left side. Ser# hidden under the cylinder = A74525. I of course have a question or two, maybe three. 1. Should the hammer hold in the single fire position? This one will with coaxing of the little tab behind the trigger in t he back of the trigger guard. I took it apart and saw no spring in there to make the single fire action happen. 2, Of course id like to find parts, the tabs on the back of the cylinder are worn more than I'd like. and looking for a spring for the single fire option...if in fact my theory is correct that it should have single fire in addition to double action. 3. black powder....can this be safely shot with smokeless powder? if not at all, what is your black powder grain recommendation and bullet type? and reloading recommendation? this is a very cool gun and I'd hate to not be able to plink with it. If Its recommended to not use, I will let it go as I don't collect guns for display.
Yep, you have a 2nd model, 3rd variation, made in 1893.

1. If it has an exposed hammer - the hammer should have a single action option(manual cocking). Sounds like you're missing the sear spring(sold out at Numrich).

2. If you mean the ratchet on the extractor that the pawl pushes against to rotate the cylinder - Numrich is sold out of them too. If you do find one elsewhere you'll need to get it "timed" by a gunsmith.

3. Absolutely NO smokeless at all. Topbreaks are inherently weaker than solid frame guns. For BP loads - it is easier than loading smokeless.. You don't even have to measure the powder. Just fill the case to 1/16" to 1/8" below the mouth of the case with FFFg black powder. Then seat a 148gr +/- 10gr bullet on top of it. You want a softer alloy bullet, and one with little bearing surface. Too hard of a bullet and too much bearing surface will cause the frame to stretch with older topbreaks. If you've never loaded BP before there are a few things you must keep in mind:

A. air space in the case is bad, very bad - so a minor compressed load is ideal.
B. you might want to open the flashhole a little for your BP loads - but you'll never want to use those cases for smokeless later.
C. you will want to clean the hell out of the cases because the salts will embed into the brass and cause it to get brittle.
D. since BP works at lower pressures it wont expand the brass to seal the chamber as well as smokeless - so you'll be doing more cleaning. You can anneal the brass some to soften it to allow it to expand(typically isn't worth doing with small handgun cases.
 

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Knight0334, THANK YOU!! Awesome guidance! I looked on Numrich, but have not found the parts, I'll keep looking. I understand what you mean about the timing, I took the cylinder apart, and it really only fits correctly one way. On the Bullet...I take it .38 Cal? I was understanding these are a bit larger than 38 Special? Or is that just the casing?, Also, The primer...standard pistol primers? I think I'm hooked on these guns, I will look for a smokeless version so I can plink and have brass to reload with BP as you mentioned. I did read some of the past guidance from one of the members you mentioned, it was heartwarming to see him giving guidance up to the end. This is a great forum with good people, and yes RIP to the mentors you mentioned.
 

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.38S&W uses a .361" bullet, where as .38Long Colt, .38Spl, .357Mag, .360DW, .357Max, and .357SuperMag all use .357" jacketed and .358" cast bullets.

However, lots of folks have had decent results using 148gr hollow base .357"-.358" wadcutters because the base expands to the larger bore, and it is made of softer lead.

You don't want the heavier 180gr or 200gr .361" bullets that are meant for the sturdier Webley revolvers. They will cause too much breech thrust and frame stretching, especially on weaker BP frames.

Primers - standard small pistol primers will do just fine. But as I mentioned before, with BP you sometimes need to widen the flash hole a little bit to help get the BP to ignite reliably. ...but if you use those cases with widened flash holes with smokeless you can get excessive pressures on the primer - ruptured primers, flattened primers, ejected primers, etc.

If you go looking for a smokeless gun - the easiest way to ID a smokeless gun is to look for the caliber designation being stamped on the left side of the barrel. I know left-right is all in perspective, so - hold gun in right hand like you were to shoot it, aim away, then look at the side that is towards your left hand.
 
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