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Discussion in 'Competition Shooting Forum' started by Scalloper, Jan 5, 2019.
What is you shooting setup? Lead sled, dual bags etc etc.
I have this for a front rest and a bag I squeeze for a rear rest.
Can be too much finger on the trigger, pulling the weapon sideways.
i have the answer but it most likly wont get responces or recieved. run into this many times and even had it my self once. all of the above reply can help but that is just helping some and not getting rid of the problem. your barrel has tention in it that so when it is heated up it goes toward the leaste tention, so there fore it walk under warming to the least tention in the barrel. easy fix that cost about 110 dollars. cryo genic treat the barrel and no more walking and the result will be tight consistant groups. do send you barrel with the action on to a cryo treatment co. that charges more tahn 110 dollars. they all use the same cryo genic treatment machines. it will do two things to your barrel take the tention out of it and make the barrel much more wear resistant. the bore will be more slippry. usually most get 100 ft per second out of the barrel when they recieve it back. ive seen many barrels cured of this problem by what ive replyed. most likly this advice wont be recieved. never can figure out why but if it is you wont be disappointed. this part of the reply can be deleted if the moderators want. i use cryo plus which can be found on the internet. they are fast in turn around and reasonalble in price. im about to send my sons 7mm mag barrel and action to be cryo treated by them as it will make a really good shooter in to a much better one. again this will solve you problem now lets here from the naysayers.
Your breathing, trigger control and recoil management all play a part in the horizontal. Take a short video of yourself shooting and post it. No way to be sure without seeing what you are doing.
If I were betting on it, I'd say high spot in the side of the barrel channel. If it were the wind, unless the wind was very constant the whole group would have movd but I doubt spread like it did. Rings and mounts, not a clue. I've never had a problem with them before. I know a guy that did and his group was all over the paper. Stress relieved. Maybe. I had a rifle in the late 60's that wasn't but as I understand it they are all relieved today. Cryo. Not a clue. Never have tried it. I get most every rifle I load for shooting somewhere uder an inch and I'm a hunter, all the accuracy I need. My biggest grouping rifle goes 1 1/4" @ 100yds but it has a badly pitted barrel from old caustic primer's. My best rifle's generally run right at 1/2" to almost 3/4". The rifle that won't shoot doesn't come around very often. Must say I check bedding on every rifle I ever get. Barrel for me is generally always free floated. I check that with min two sheet's of typing paper. Dollar bitt can work but tolerance is kind close. In the action with the rear screw tight I slowly loosen the front screw and any movement at all between the barreled action and stock get the action bedded. I have never pillar bedded but one of these days will try it but even then the action will be bedded.
I use diamond's for for aiming points also. I do that the keep the crosshairs on each point. Rifle may not be perfectly level but it is in the same position every time.
All my trigger's are at 3# except the Mossberg Partiot's, they are less. I think a good excerise for trigger control is dry fire offhand with a quarter balanced on the end of the barrel. The idea is to dry fire without knocking the quarter off the barrel. And when firing, pretty important to pull the trigger straight back.
If your a hunter, breath control may not be all it's cracked up to be. reason is if your excited or have winded yourself climbing or running, breath control is pretty much out the window. The OP was using a rest and the rest you use in the field is very important. Forget gizmos like bi pods and learn to position shoot. Seldom is there a good reason not to get the best position to rest. Most people I've watched over the years were clueless about shooting position, in fact in the service I found most people couldn't dry fire without knocking the quarter off the barrel. That light trigger you have is useless if you can't control it! Trigger control is very important. Shooting position is alsy very important. Shoot from prone and use the method above about closing your eye's while aiming at the target. You wonder off target and your body is not properly aligned. If your shoot right handed and in prone the cross wire's drift off to the left you have stress in your lower back. Releave the stress bu moving your feet in the direction you drifted. Works in every position and doesn't take long to just drop into the right position.
Last problem might be shooting at 200 yds to develope a load. Think about the center and lower load, for 200yds they are not all that bad but at 200yds, the position the bullet hit's the paper is much more evident. Try shoting at 100 yds and then when the load is good move to 200 yds. At 200 all the fault's in shooting, rifle and shooter are going to be multiplied! The center and lower group at 100 yds both look like they would be under an inch! One last idea. When yu shoot at 200 yds, use a larger aiming point. What looks fine at 100 yds can dissappear at 200yds. I believe the reason we don't seem to shoot as well at longer distances is the aiming point get's smaller as it get's farther away! I make my own target's and adjust the aiming point for the scope I use.
Many years ago shortly before hunting season's opening day I purchased a Rem. 700 in cal. .308.
I hurried and free floated the barrel and resealed the channel. I did not bed the recoil lug.
With a known accurate load I hit the range and that rifle shot horizontal groups. What I discovered was that the barreled action would shift in the stock so that the barrel would hit the stock in the channel. No matter how tight I made the action screws the steel shifted in the wood stock. I made up some shims to fit the recoil lug mortise and stop the shifting. That rifle then shot easily into an inch at 100 yds. After the season ended I did bed the lug.
As others have mentioned I also believe breath control, trigger pull weight, trigger squeeze technique, optics having secure mounting and more influence accuracy. One last thing, in my opinion firing 10 shots or two five shot strings is getting that pencil weight barrel too hot for good accuracy testing.
I own a Romanian PSL that strings horizontal shot groups bad. Everyone tells me it is normal for those guns because of the thin barrels. So I don't shoot more than two rounds at a time between barrel cool downs. It's just a fun gun anyway & don't plan to use it in competition or hunt with it. So as long as it hits the gong the first couple rounds it's fine for me.
You have several things going on here. You have both vertical and horizonal issues.
No one knows how fast your shots are. The time between strings. Each shot should be called to benefit any solving of your issues. Guess`s are all you can obtain without these questions being addressed.
Example; do you break cheek weld between any shots.
Sounds like worth a try to me. The problem he's talking about is a barrel that needs stress relieved I think. I thought all rifle's for a long time now were stress relieved. If your's isn't, it will play h*ll with you!
custom barrels usually are, never a over the counter one. the problem with over the counter guns is this, now and then and more now than you think, they make a barrel and a good one from a bent bar that has been straightened. well the memory of the bend is in the steel. when heated up it bent to the bend it was. cryo treating will cure it right now. plus you usually get 100 ft. per sec. out of the barrel faster , the bullet. the barrel will last longer also. if your going to keep the rifle, cryo the barrel and action. all olympic rifles are stress relieved. they use the sonic method. does the same thing.
I'm with catman. As it heats up the harmonics change. All barrels whip around like a wet noodle, just a matter of how much. Deep freeze that sucker and make sure the barrel free floats and the lug is bedded securely