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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I have a question for the hornady lock and load people.
I got a single stage classic and a set of lee dies. Something I'm confused on is that when I screw my die in and lock it down with the nut,,,,, by the way I have the hornady split die nuts on order to replace the ones on my lee dies,,,,. Anyway with the die in the bushing and locked down,,,,when I go to twist the die bushing setup out of the press my die unscrews. The only way to get the bushing out is to use a pair of channel locks. The video on you tube just shows the guy turning the setup and the bushing and die come out as one. I like the idea of the lock and load setup but if my die always comes unscrewed from the bushing,,,wants the sense??
 

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Try another Bushing,my friend bought a pack of Lock-n-Load Bushings and one of them had the same issues your talking about,the rest seemed fine.
 

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I have about 15 bushings. Some of them can be inserted and removed using just my hand others (most of them) require channel locks to put them and take them out. I think it's a manufacturing tolerance issue. Some bushings are just a little larger than others and require more force to seat and unseat.
 

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The O ring on the bottom of Lee dies is the troublesome factor. Flip the ring so the Oring is upward and there is metal to metal contact. The amount of aluminum (or whatever the non ferrous blend of material) is the big turnoff for the Lee haters, I somewhat agree.
 

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To the O.P.

I reload on the Hornady E.Q. What I am going to tell you is what works for me. Most guys will disagree with me and it's OK to have an opinion but this is my advise. I hope it works and what I am going to tell you works for me. Here it goes.

I ditched the Hornady lock rings for the Lee. For me the Lee's can be tightened by hand and if you need a "Little" more torque then you can use a wrench. However, when the word wrench gets thrown into the equation that is where your problem starts.

If you go into local gun shops where they sell used die sets you will notice that many used reloading die sets are heavily scared from over torquing the dies with wrench's. Many times reloaders tend to reef down on the reloading dies and therefore over tighten them.

If your LNL inserts backing out it is because you are OVER TIGHTENING the locrkings. As a matter of fact the amount of torque that is neded to keep a die in place on the LNL is the same torque (within reason) that needs to be applied on all reloading dies. On the Hornady dies I can literally finger tighten my Lee dies with my fingers and then tighten down the allen bolt and they will remain perfectly adjusted for the rest of the reloading process. Then, once you are done losen the allen bolt on the lock ring and simply loosen the die from the LNL bushing and the die will unscrew without the bushing cominmg out.

If you just want to remove the die/LNL bushing together then just turn the die counter-clockwise and it will slip out without causing the entire threading system to follow but it will still be threaded into the LNL bushing. I believe that is what you are trying to achieve. By not over torquing the reloading die into the press it will unlock and come right out.

If you do get in a bind and the entire die/LNL Bushing/and threads come disconnected together, wrap a shop rag around the threaded piece and gently place it into a vise and clamp onto the threads (you won't hurt the threads) and then take a wrench and losen the assembly. Now you can disconnect everythingand replace the theaded piece into postion and start over. This time don't over tighten the die and you will see that it will work properly like disgned.

Disregard the bushing being bad/ out of tolerance. You will chase your tail trying to prove that theory. What you are experiencing is over tightening. It is as simple as that.

The trick to keep the entire threaded piece to stay put is to not overtighten it in the first place. This is why I use the Lee lock rings becasuse I can literally finger tighten them and when I tear down my E.Q. it comes apart with ease. Try both sets of lock rings w and you will see the simplicity of the Lee lock rings with the o-ring system will work for you.

I am making a series of videos on the Hornady LNL Progresive Press. These videos are going to cover complete setup, trouble shooting, and performance. They will be as detailed as I can get them and I hope they will help you out. I will address the problem you are struggling with in the econd video. The video's appear to be around 30 minutes so they are coming slowly but surely.

I hope this helps you and pm me with any questions. You have a good press and once you figure it out you will be up and running.
 

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1) Lee lock rings are very good.
2) If you need a few more threads, remove the lock ring, remove the O-ring from it, turn it upside down, and screw it back on the die.
3) Some Hornady bushings come with undersized o-rings. This is the "problem" with o-rings. Believe me. The aerospace company I worked for had to individually inspect every single o-ring and we scrapped 50-90% of them for various faults. No body wants a $1billion mission compromised for an o-ring problem.
I found that simply switching to another bushing would solve the problem. Some people make a shim out of beer or soda cans that will let the slightly small o-ring tighten down. Hornady can send you a shim.
For the progressive press, this problem generally shows up with the powder measure. The powder measure is VERY top heavy and can work a too-small bushing loose very quickly.
 

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I can't add to the sage advice already posted, but I would like to add a comment about Hornady and their customer service.

I have the old Pro-jector Hornady press and today I broke the inner spindle on the full length resizing die for .223. It's the decapping/mouth resizing spindle. I called Hornady customer service, explained the part and where it broke and behold, they are sending me a new one out today. In fact, it's the new and improved part from the one I have.

I actually kind of stumbled with my words when she said OK, I'm sending you one out. I was thinking is that it? No more questions? Do I need to send you the broken part? Nope, they're simply sending out the new part. That's what I call honoring your lifetime warranty.

Good job Hornady...

kevinh
 

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I can't add to the sage advice already posted, but I would like to add a comment about Hornady and their customer service.

I have the old Pro-jector Hornady press and today I broke the inner spindle on the full length resizing die for .223. It's the decapping/mouth resizing spindle. I called Hornady customer service, explained the part and where it broke and behold, they are sending me a new one out today. In fact, it's the new and improved part from the one I have.

I actually kind of stumbled with my words when she said OK, I'm sending you one out. I was thinking is that it? No more questions? Do I need to send you the broken part? Nope, they're simply sending out the new part. That's what I call honoring your lifetime warranty.

Good job Hornady...

kevinh
Yes, and I will say that is how Lee and RCBS are. One thing about these companies is they provide good paying jobs and give excellent customer service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know I'm not over tighten the die. I have only figure tightened the lock ring. Even with no die inserted into the LNL bushing I have to take a pair of channel locks to turn it to get it to lock in place and to remove it. With the 3 that came with the press I have one that I can install and remove with my fingers

To the O.P.

I reload on the Hornady E.Q. What I am going to tell you is what works for me. Most guys will disagree with me and it's OK to have an opinion but this is my advise. I hope it works and what I am going to tell you works for me. Here it goes.

I ditched the Hornady lock rings for the Lee. For me the Lee's can be tightened by hand and if you need a "Little" more torque then you can use a wrench. However, when the word wrench gets thrown into the equation that is where your problem starts.

If you go into local gun shops where they sell used die sets you will notice that many used reloading die sets are heavily scared from over torquing the dies with wrench's. Many times reloaders tend to reef down on the reloading dies and therefore over tighten them.

If your LNL inserts backing out it is because you are OVER TIGHTENING the locrkings. As a matter of fact the amount of torque that is neded to keep a die in place on the LNL is the same torque (within reason) that needs to be applied on all reloading dies. On the Hornady dies I can literally finger tighten my Lee dies with my fingers and then tighten down the allen bolt and they will remain perfectly adjusted for the rest of the reloading process. Then, once you are done losen the allen bolt on the lock ring and simply loosen the die from the LNL bushing and the die will unscrew without the bushing cominmg out.

If you just want to remove the die/LNL bushing together then just turn the die counter-clockwise and it will slip out without causing the entire threading system to follow but it will still be threaded into the LNL bushing. I believe that is what you are trying to achieve. By not over torquing the reloading die into the press it will unlock and come right out.

If you do get in a bind and the entire die/LNL Bushing/and threads come disconnected together, wrap a shop rag around the threaded piece and gently place it into a vise and clamp onto the threads (you won't hurt the threads) and then take a wrench and losen the assembly. Now you can disconnect everythingand replace the theaded piece into postion and start over. This time don't over tighten the die and you will see that it will work properly like disgned.

Disregard the bushing being bad/ out of tolerance. You will chase your tail trying to prove that theory. What you are experiencing is over tightening. It is as simple as that.

The trick to keep the entire threaded piece to stay put is to not overtighten it in the first place. This is why I use the Lee lock rings becasuse I can literally finger tighten them and when I tear down my E.Q. it comes apart with ease. Try both sets of lock rings w and you will see the simplicity of the Lee lock rings with the o-ring system will work for you.

I am making a series of videos on the Hornady LNL Progresive Press. These videos are going to cover complete setup, trouble shooting, and performance. They will be as detailed as I can get them and I hope they will help you out. I will address the problem you are struggling with in the econd video. The video's appear to be around 30 minutes so they are coming slowly but surely.

I hope this helps you and pm me with any questions. You have a good press and once you figure it out you will be up and running.
 

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I know I'm not over tighten the die. I have only figure tightened the lock ring. Even with no die inserted into the LNL bushing I have to take a pair of channel locks to turn it to get it to lock in place and to remove it. With the 3 that came with the press I have one that I can install and remove with my fingers
OK, that is good. Here is what you need to do. Place the LNL bushing half way into the LNL threaded piece that keeps backing out. Then take a pair of channel lock pliers and snug the threaded piece back in and you will be good to go. The LNL bushing can be used as a tool to tighten the inner threaded piece back in. After that it should stay put and you will be good to go.

I made a video on what you are trying to fix because it seems to be a reocurring issue on some preses. I will try to post it up on youtube if I can figure out how to.
 

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i hate lee lock rings. i repalce them with rcbs any time I use a lee die. seems liek their orings differ from batch to batch.. some are so loose they are useless.

luckilly the proce of bulk lock ringgs from another brand are cheap eno=ught that using a lee die is still a money saver even if I have to double nut it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, that is good. Here is what you need to do. Place the LNL bushing half way into the LNL threaded piece that keeps backing out. Then take a pair of channel lock pliers and snug the threaded piece back in and you will be good to go. The LNL bushing can be used as a tool to tighten the inner threaded piece back in. After that it should stay put and you will be good to go.

I made a video on what you are trying to fix because it seems to be a recurring issue on some presses. I will try to post it up on youtube if I can figure out how to.
Please do.
Still sort of confused when your talking the inner threaded piece. Here it is again what I'm seeing. I thread my lee die into the LNL bushing and lock the nut down so it wont move. I then install the LNL bushing into the press but I have to take a pair of channel locks to completely turn the LNL bushing all the way in. When I go to grab the edges of the LNL bushing to twist it out ,,I cannot do it unless I use a pair of channel locks on the bushing edge itself. If I try to hold onto the top of the die itself and turn it the die comes out and leaves the bushing in the press. I then again have to use channel locks to loosen the LNL bushing so I can remove it.

Are we all confused yet? I certainly am!!
 

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I've never had a problem with the die coming loose in the bushing. It is the bushing coming loose from the press. It happens most frequently with the powder measure. Again it's the bushing coming loose from the press not the powder measure coming loose from the bushing.
 

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i'm following ya.

the bushing locks into the press stronger than the die into the bushing.. thus you cannot use the die to remove bushing and die as a unit.

that's another reason I like the rcbs lock rings. they have a nifty slide over wrench that slips down over the die and the lock ring and turns it out without touching the die itself.

as to your snug bushing problem.

is it doing it on all your bushings.. or just 1?
 

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I use the LEE lock rings all the time. They are by far easier to use. I bought some of the Hornady lock rings to try out. They are useless! I have tightened the set screw for the ring and the lock ring still travels on the threads of the die. And I tightened the crap out of them. I have never had a LEE lock ring back off on me. Guess I have been one of the lucky ones.:dontknow:
 

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half of mine have orings soooooo loose they fall out of the lock ring.. and these aren't used sets.. all new.

( does anyone buy a used lee die set? what could they cost? 5$ :) ;) )

I still like the value of the die though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i'm following ya.

the bushing locks into the press stronger than the die into the bushing.. thus you cannot use the die to remove bushing and die as a unit.

that's another reason I like the rcbs lock rings. they have a nifty slide over wrench that slips down over the die and the lock ring and turns it out without touching the die itself.

as to your snug bushing problem.

is it doing it on all your bushings.. or just 1?
Out of 3 bushings that came with the unit only one can I insert and remove without channel locks.
To make things really clear to everyone. Lets take the dies out of the picture all together. I cannot tighten the LNL bushing into the press by only using my fingers. On two of the three I have to use channel locks to completely turn it all the way in until it locks
 
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