[oldmedik]

hi there i have an 870 that a family member has had for a while. at some point the ren choke came out lalala he just kept shooting. he says he didnt know anything about it. now i cant get a choke to screw in. i have cleaned it, can see the threads, but it wont start and screw in. i think the threads are full of lead. i dont have a tap to clean them uo, any ideas. there are no gunsmiths in my area, i do a lot of the stuff for peolpe around here, but have never tackled this. can any one help?


thanx
martin wise

 

[Jim K]

I would try a stiff steel wire brush or use a bronze or steel barrel brush in a power drill. If all else fails, you can buy the tap from Brownells, but I don't think you will like the $160 price tag. You can mail that barrel to a gunsmith or back to Remington a lot cheaper.

Jim

 

[Bindernut]

I usually use a bronze bore brush one gauge larger than the shotgun. I.E. in a 12ga I use a 10ga brush. In a 20ga, I'll use a 12ga brush.

Insert it into the muzzle with a twisting motion. Twist it down about as far as the length of the choke tube threads and pull it back out, all the while still twisting in only one direction. You could also chuck it into a drill as Jim suggests...that'll probably work faster for you since it sounds like you might have a lot of garbage built up in the threads.

I doubt it'll need to have the threads chased with a tap since it's probably just loaded with lead and plastic wad shavings.
If it's clogged with rust, try soaking with a good penetrating oil like Kroil or Liquid Wrench for a few days to loosen up the rust build up. Actually, the penetrating oil will help knock the lead and plastic loose too.

 

[Helix_FR]

I agree with above too but I have seen some threads damaged if shot excessively or with steel shot. Its not expensive to chase threads but sounds like finding someone to do it is the challenge.

 

[oldmedik]

hey thanx guys i will try the drill method by hand didnt work. mr helix i was told that if it didnt work i might could get you to fix it. if the correct size tap is 13/16 32tpi i might order a dottom tap can gett them for 35 bux if that will work

 

[Helix_FR]

No it wont. you need a piloted tap Going in with a standard bottoming tap can cut the threads uneven and since its under sized I can guarantee you it will walk. Doing so can leave a lip from the choke tube when inserted or completely ruining the threads.

 

[Bindernut]

Actually, 13/16" (0.8125")-32 is the dimension used for Rem/Win Choke threads.
Most charts list WinChoke & RemChoke as .814" but my Clymer tap is marked 13/16"-32 and the major diameter of mine is 0.813" (I measured with a caliper...my micrometer set is still in storage)

BUT...Helix is correct that you will need a piloted tap even if you're just chasing @#$% from the threads otherwise it can/will walk on you. A regular bottoming tap won't work.

 

[Helix_FR]

Yep I'm with ya on that too. I just checked mine its .814 on major. .I can fix it for you. PM at ya.

 

[oldmedik]

ok guys, bubble busted, no new tool/toy. any waym after drill, brush, wd-40, it worked. i put a dab of grease on threads of choke, screwed it in and out several times, ran a few patches thru barrel, and put choke in. yay it is saved. hard to find rem choked 20ga barrels.


thanx
martin wise

 

[Bindernut]

hard to find rem choked 20ga barrels.

Glad to hear ya got it cleaned out! They can be a stinker.
BTW, I like to use a little dab of anti-sieze compound on the threads. Pretty sure just oil would work fine too but I've had a couple barrels pass though that had frozen tubes. Just enough rust formed on the threads that they hung up tight enough to strip out factory Rem-choke spanner wrenches. Started using anti-sieze on them after that.

If your shotgun was a 20ga, then you ignore all of Helix and my ramblings about tap thread size though...that was for 12ga. For future reference,20ga is smaller...11/16"-32. I don't have a 20ga reamer/tap setup though, just 12ga.

 

[Maine04657]

I just remove the barrel use hot water simplegreen and a toothbrush.