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Discussion Starter #61
Leaving a C&B revolver loaded over a long period of time isn't a mystery. Load as normal...you could put a card wad between powder and ball but as it's going to get crushed it's both meaningless and does nothing. Don't use a lubed fiber wad, the lube will contaminate at least part of the powder. Use a lube over the balls, just use a heavier lube. I have taken to using the same lube I use for BPC bullets. It's a little stiffer and doesn't melt as readily. Paint clear fingernail polish over the caps and your done.

This stuff ain't rocket science....
I’ve seen a few videos where they make a lube from beeswax and lamb tallow. They claim the lamb tallow doesn’t go rancid but I still can’t see a meat byproduct being a good long term solution. I’m wondering if you could do the same with a vegetable shortening or if there would be some other synthetic option.

And it may not be rocket science but they did try to use BP to make rockets at one time! :eek::D
 

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You could probably use a few drops of melted pure bees wax over the ball, it won't go rancid and won't melt and would make a watertight seal.
 

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I have to remind myself I've been doing this since about 1975 and what I take for granted isn't necessarily common knowledge....

Mutton tallow won't go rancid. I used the same batch for rifle patches for...10-12 years. Other tallows will and I can't tell you the difference. Deer is particularly bad about going rancid I thought. Bear grease keeps almost as good as mutton tallow and I've been told that tallow made from 'coon fat is very similar to bear fat.

You can use a mixture of 40% bees wax and 60% of any natural oil...olive, castor, sweet, mineral and I expect any of the nut oils but I've never tried them. I use Castor oil simply because it's always available and cheap. You might have to juggle the percentages to get the consistency you like or, mix a couple batches, one soft for bullet lube and a stiffer one for over the revolver cylinder chambers. That's how I accomplish both end.

And, some still use a form of BP for toy and not so toy rocket propulsion.
 
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Discussion Starter #64
I have to remind myself I've been doing this since about 1975 and what I take for granted isn't necessarily common knowledge....

Mutton tallow won't go rancid. I used the same batch for rifle patches for...10-12 years. Other tallows will and I can't tell you the difference. Deer is particularly bad about going rancid I thought. Bear grease keeps almost as good as mutton tallow and I've been told that tallow made from 'coon fat is very similar to bear fat.

You can use a mixture of 40% bees wax and 60% of any natural oil...olive, castor, sweet, mineral and I expect any of the nut oils but I've never tried them. I use Castor oil simply because it's always available and cheap. You might have to juggle the percentages to get the consistency you like or, mix a couple batches, one soft for bullet lube and a stiffer one for over the revolver cylinder chambers. That's how I accomplish both end.

And, some still use a form of BP for toy and not so toy rocket propulsion.
I hadn’t thought of castor or mineral oils.

I was also contemplating coconut oil. My wife uses it a lot for cooking and it has about the same consistency as Crisco when it’s cool. It’s also good for your joints if you use it in place of butter.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Well, it’s ordered.
Finally went with the steel frame Remington 1858 in .44 caliber. Ordered everything but the caps and black powder. Those I will try to source locally.
 

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I’ve seen a few videos where they make a lube from beeswax and lamb tallow. They claim the lamb tallow doesn’t go rancid but I still can’t see a meat byproduct being a good long term solution. I’m wondering if you could do the same with a vegetable shortening or if there would be some other synthetic option.

And it may not be rocket science but they did try to use BP to make rockets at one time! :eek::D
Bore Butter and Wonder Lube 1000 are both made with lambs tallow with a little bit of something to give it a nice smell and a little color. Bore Butter uses mint oil and yellow coloring, I have a tube of bore butter that is nearly a decade old and it isn't rancid.
They didn't just try to make rockets with bp at one time, they were very successful at it for centuries.
those bottle rockets we light off on the Fourth use it today.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Bore Butter and Wonder Lube 1000 are both made with lambs tallow with a little bit of something to give it a nice smell and a little color. Bore Butter uses mint oil and yellow coloring, I have a tube of bore butter that is nearly a decade old and it isn't rancid.
They didn't just try to make rockets with bp at one time, they were very successful at it for centuries.
those bottle rockets we light off on the Fourth use it today.
Interesting about the scents. I can’t imagine a BP gun smelling minty fresh. :D

When I was referring to rockets, I was talking more about the kind that launch people into space. I don’t think those attempts were very successful. :confused:
 
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Thompson Center Bore Butter is both scented and colored, Wonder Lube is unscented and not colored.

I think modern solid fueled rocket boosters use potassium perchlorate (sp?) instead of potassium nitrate in the mixture, but then, I'm not a rocket scientist. But I have seen some spectacular rocket explosions on the you tube of both solid and liquid fueled rockets. Those rocket jockeys had a pair of big brass ones to ride on one of those "controlled" explosions into outer space. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Our shop has powder, bullets, caps and molds in stock and I think they have a few revolvers. I can't post a link to it on open forums, against the rules, but someone else like @sharps4590 can. Or you can send me a PM. Powder and caps do have a hazmat fee so local purchase of it if you can find it local will be more cost effective.
Holy cats that place is fast! They already put the order together and sent me the tracking #. Said it should be in UPS’s system by tomorrow morning.
 

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The only time we're slow is if you ordered a custom made barrel or rifle and I have to make it, or if it's out of stock and we have to wait on a supplier.
Sadly, health problems have put a halt to my rifle building and have slowed my work in the barrel shop. but I still make a darned good barrel :)
 

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Discussion Starter #72
The Remington and all the accoutrements I ordered along with it arrived today. I forgot to order a powder measure. :( The flask I ordered measures out a 30 grain charge but then I started reading about not loading a BP gun directly from the flask. I’d like to keep my hand attached. I guess I’ll have to get one ordered.

Kudos to Suzi and her team at The Gun Works Muzzleloading Emporium for getting the order shipped quickly. Everything was correct and I’m a very happy camper. :)

I did manage to find a bottle of Pyrodex FFFG substitute and 2 packs of 1075 Dynamit Nobel caps at the LGS here in town. Neither was my first choice but they’ll work. At least it saves me hazmat fees.

The gun itself is very nice. It’s the steel framed Pietta version imported by Traditions. I’ve seen a lot of complaints about Traditions revolvers not being up to snuff even compared to other Piettas but this one appears to be very well made. Everything works as it should and the fit and finish is more than satisfactory. (At least to me.) My one complaint is that it came covered in that darn packing grease everybody loves so much. :rolleyes: I’m gonna have to soak it in alcohol or something to get it all off.

Taking inventory, I still need a powder measure, some Ballistol and a small dowel to make sure the caps are seated. I also want to get some beeswax and either coconut or olive oil to make some lube. I got lubed patches but I want to try making paper cartridges at some point. Those will need separate lube.

Now if I could just get time to go shoot the thing!
 
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Willie, you can load a revolver straight from the flask. I don't know anyone who doesn't. You'll dump the powder charge, seat the ball, repeat. Smear your lube over the front of the cylinders, THEN cap the nipples. You're pouring it into an empty chamber and hopefully you didn't cap the nipple first!!!
 

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What is the dowel for? Isn't there a little "cutout" or rounded indention on the frame that allows the cap to be put on the nipples with your finger? It has been over 35 years since I shot a cap and ball revolver, but I seem to remember that!
 

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You're right about the Colts, George. They have that groove milled into the boss of the recoil shield. I don't know about the Remington's.
 

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Grizzley1 says 10's are best. Maybe I have different sized nipples.
So, is one nipple bigger than the other or...........??

Sorry folks, it's the end of the day and my mind is slipping!:stir::banana:
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Willie, you can load a revolver straight from the flask. I don't know anyone who doesn't. You'll dump the powder charge, seat the ball, repeat. Smear your lube over the front of the cylinders, THEN cap the nipples. You're pouring it into an empty chamber and hopefully you didn't cap the nipple first!!!
I keep hearing that BP shouldn’t be reloaded straight from a flask after being fired. There is the chance of a hot ember setting off fresh powder and making the flask into a bomb. Of course I figured that you would be able to check the cylinders first to be sure there weren’t any but I’m new to this. Figured I should listen and err on the side of caution.

What is the dowel for? Isn't there a little "cutout" or rounded indention on the frame that allows the cap to be put on the nipples with your finger? It has been over 35 years since I shot a cap and ball revolver, but I seem to remember that!
That comes from watching several YouTube videos where the shooters cap their revolvers and then use a small dowel to be sure they are seated tightly. Watched several guys do this and they have all been shooting for several years so I figured there might be something to it.
 
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Willie, on a revolver it's okay to load from the flask to the cylinder. On a rifle that's a big no,no. there might be that errant ember or the valve might stick and you get more powder down bore than you want to shoot.

Loading a revolver is like having a loading press built into the gun. You'll see an accidental over charge and embers.

Did you mean lubed wads when you said patches?
 

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I picked me up another can of Ballistol today , was needing a new sprayer also . Love that stuff . Finally decided to try it at Tulsa's Wannenmacher's Gun Show 1st part of this year . I keep a piece of dowel or a pencil in my shooting bag also to give the caps a little nudge into place . Get it cleaned up we want a range report !
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Willie, on a revolver it's okay to load from the flask to the cylinder. On a rifle that's a big no,no. there might be that errant ember or the valve might stick and you get more powder down bore than you want to shoot.

Loading a revolver is like having a loading press built into the gun. You'll see an accidental over charge and embers.
Well, I kind of figured that would be the case but I never saw anything contradicting the rule so I was going to stick to it. I’m far less concerned about it now that y’all have said that revolvers are relatively safe to load this way.

Did you mean lubed wads when you said patches?
Yes. I got 100 of the pre lubed wads because I figured that would be a little less mess than traditional lube. Then I started looking into making paper cartridges just to make loading a little faster. Since you can’t leave the lubed wads in the cartridges for an extended period of time without contaminating the powder, I decided to make some homemade lube.
 
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