Identify SKS and other questions

trying to add Pictures

Some SKS models are uncommon and worth a bit more than average, but I don't know of any Chinese versions that fall into that category.

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There are Chinese variants that command much higher prices than the run-of-the-mill models, such as the SKS-D and SKS-M. But yeah, this one seems to be a typical Chicom SKS. Not particularly collectible due to rarity or anything, but still a nice example. Especially since it has an intact bayonet lug and all-matching numbers. A lot of these Chinese SKS's were bubbatized by their owners, so every year it gets harder and harder to find original condition examples. In the long run, these will become quite collectible if left in their original configuration.

As for being fully automatic, there was indeed a fully-automatic variant of the SKS made in China (called the Type 63), but those were of course never brought here to the US. Not on purpose, anyway. A few of them got accidentally imported with the Type 56 models, but they were mostly weeded out and sent back.

Nzapton, I would take that story of it being fully automatic as a cautionary tale. The SKS, when not properly maintained, can slam-fire. This occurs when, for example, the firing pin (which is supposed to be free-floating in the bolt) gets stuck in the forward position. The rifle will go full-auto and even releasing the trigger will not stop it. It will continue to fire until the magazine is empty. People have died from SKS slam-fires. So if the guy told your father-in-law that it was full-auto, he may have actually experienced a slam-fire. You should remove the receiver cover, recoil spring, and bolt carrier, so you can get the bolt itself out of the rifle. Shake it back and forth, and you should hear the firing pin rattle freely inside of it. If the firing pin is at all sticky, you need to disassemble the bolt to clean it.

In many cases, slam-fires were the result of people not fully cleaning the cosmoline out of the bolt. It can act like glue for the firing pin, especially when it starts to get gunpowder residue caked up in there. Or that red primer sealant from foreign 7.62x39 that tends to flake off. Make sure the bolt is clean and the firing pin rattles freely! An accidental slam-fire can be a very bad thing, especially since it can be accompanied by an out-of-battery detonation.

Nzapton said:

Thanx for the info everyone. I have read about the possibility of slam fires. And given the fact that this particular rifle hasn't been fired in years n years I fully intend to take it to my local gunsmith for inspection first. I just didn't want to get there n it be fully automatic then I get in trouble for having it n not having the right permits for it.

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This is just my opinion, but I would strongly suggest that you look at it yourself first. There is no reason to take it to a gunsmith for this. You can Google the SKS trigger group and find all the information you need in order to inspect it and make sure nothing has been tampered with. It will be obvious if any 'conversion' has been done to it. Not only will this save you the expense of a gunsmith, but it will make you more familiar with the workings of your rifle.

But more importantly, if indeed it was tampered with, you will be opening yourself up to some pretty serious legal trouble. Unless you have a gunsmith that you personally know and trust, he might be the type who would report it to the ATF, and even if you were to manage to avoid federal felony charges yourself, you could be exposing your father-in-law to trouble. Simply put, this really needs to stay private until you're sure.

Removing the trigger group is very simple, and can theoretically be done without even using any tools. All you do is flip the rifle upside down and locate the little dimpled tab behind the trigger guard. This is a spring catch that locks it into the receiver. Make sure the safety is on, with the lever flipped towards the stock. You can use the tip of a 7.62x39 cartridge to depress the catch (pushing the bullet tip into the dimple and pressing forward towards the muzzle). The trigger group will pop up and away from the receiver; there's a spring in there that pops it out. Then you simply pull it out and you can see most of the 'guts' of the trigger group. Again, you can find instructions for further disassembly of the trigger group online if you need to do a close inspection of the sear, trigger bar, etc. But it should be obvious if it's been tampered with, since you'll see parts missing or altered.