o me beam scales are frustrating they take too long to settle and aren't as precise as I want. I use an electronic scale made by National which at the time looked like a Hornady so probably made by them. I ck it against 2 other scales and use ck weights at each start. It was $50. on Midway and has been a good scale since purchase. I don't think the price dictates quality.
Looking for a new scale
I have a couple of scales I reload with right now. I have a Truweight which is pretty much worthless, drifts two tenths of a grain all the time. I use my Redding beam scale which I thought was pretty accurate. It turns out it may not be. I'm trying to improve my powder measuring so I'm looking at a new scale. I am aware of the A&D precision scales. I'm just not willing to pay that much money. I realize many precision shooters would not give that a second thought. I know everyone says buy the right component first and save money in the long run. I do not compete. I'm just an engineer that likes to try to get things closer and I just want to improve. I want to know if anyone has any experience with the new Creedmoor Sports TRX-925 precision scale? I've done my homework and read the reviews. it seems to be just what I'm looking for. I just do not want to end up with another electronic scale like that Truweight that is worthless. I really appreciate your input.
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Hmm.. I'd take a beam scale over electronic for precision..as for settling time...get a dampened one...
It is dampened. It's looking at the little white line lining up with the other white line I would need it at eye level to make sure it's exact. Too much.Hmm.. I'd take a beam scale over electronic for precision..as for settling time...get a dampened one...
I like my G2 Hornady scale, but it's sensitive to other electronics being nearby and takes a bit to warm up and stay more consistent. No need to worry about that with the Hornady beam scale I have now. Gotta hunch over to read it right if I don't elevate it, but it's nice to have.
I used a beam scale in school to weigh out chemicals.
I worked in an oil lab and we used digital scales. They are pricey...measuring to .0001 grams. We always verified theri accuracy at least once a day, or if they were moved with check weights. I used them to make up chromatography standards and those had to be exactly right.
So I feel comfortable using my inexpensive digital scale as long as the check weights weigh correctly. 8 grains or 26 grains is the same whether it's on a beam scale or an electronic scale. As far as consistency, I can place the same check weight on it repeatedly and get the same reading. If I question the powder weight, I use the check weights again. Recalibration with the factory supplied weights is always an option.
I worked in an oil lab and we used digital scales. They are pricey...measuring to .0001 grams. We always verified theri accuracy at least once a day, or if they were moved with check weights. I used them to make up chromatography standards and those had to be exactly right.
So I feel comfortable using my inexpensive digital scale as long as the check weights weigh correctly. 8 grains or 26 grains is the same whether it's on a beam scale or an electronic scale. As far as consistency, I can place the same check weight on it repeatedly and get the same reading. If I question the powder weight, I use the check weights again. Recalibration with the factory supplied weights is always an option.
I use a Frankfort Arsenal Intellidropper and or a Hornady Autocharge for all of my reloading, as long as they calibrate correctly, and are consistent that’s all that matters to me. If I question one of them I’ll weigh the in question charge on the other and almost every time they have been accurate.
Never had an issue with the digital scale, especially now after I changed all my lights out with LED alights
Never had an issue with the digital scale, especially now after I changed all my lights out with LED alights
My experience with measuring charges by volume vs weight is bench rest shooting inline black powder rifles. When working up a load for a particular BP rifle I would first measure the black powder by recommended volume and then weigh it on a beam scale. I found accuracy with my BP loads far more accurate using a beam scale rather than using a volume measure. Same goes for smokeless powder.
As far as electronic scales go I started out with beam scales 55+ years ago and have never trusted electronic reloading scales. This distrust of electronic reloading scales was later reinforced after working as a machinist for decades. Electronic calipers and micrometers were not to be trusted.
As far as electronic scales go I started out with beam scales 55+ years ago and have never trusted electronic reloading scales. This distrust of electronic reloading scales was later reinforced after working as a machinist for decades. Electronic calipers and micrometers were not to be trusted.
Many Reloaders aren't a fan of powder throwers especially if they use extruded stick powders which most of my rifles do even a high quality powder thrower like an RCBS has cutting and lower quality ones like Lee just have significant bridging problems in the cavity and I have two of them that I don't even use I'm much prefer to trickle powder for every single charger I make handgun or rifle, on the flip side all of my loads are pretty much precision.Unless you are shooting precision rifle, wouldn't a Powder Thrower work better for you?
From a purely quantitative standpoint if you measure a charge by mass which the way we would do it here on planet Earth with gravity ( mass is measured differently in places with no gravity ) would be by weight then you know how much propellant is going in that cartridge measuring by volume is an amorphous non quantitative measurement that can change. Propellant energy is measured by Mass ( and can be measured by burning ) and if you are looking at the amount of energy you're putting in that cartridge you're looking at the mass you're putting in there not the volume. Now volume has big changes on Burn rate also it has changes on pressure so it's not that it's completely unrelated it's just that if you're looking at energy you need to look at Mass volume comes into play for things like pressure and burn rate between burn rate and pressure you're also affecting shooting characteristics so it's all related.It's funny how so many think charges are more accurate when measured by weight than by volume. I know precision bench shooters who only use weight as a starting point and from there on throw their charges by volume.
As to scales, I've used a bunch of electronics but not for the last few years. Every one has shown some sort of fault and I will never touch another one. I use nothing but beam scales that have a number of different names on them but in reality they were all manufactured by Ohaus. I use check weights to verify every change in weights and to assure nothing fails. Just to be safe, if you don't have check weights don't trust any scale.
I have a Redding (don't know the model) that is not magnetically dampened, so it takes FOREVER to settle unless I help it. I have the Lee safety beam that IS magnetically dampened, but it only goes to 110 grains. And I have the Lyman Gen 2 measure and scale, which is very sensitive to air movement. I often use a Lee powder measure to drop the main charge, put it on the electronic scale, then trickle in to finish. This takes less time than letting the Lyman dispense a 50+ grain charge. Every one has their own nuances and preferences though.n digital scale.. but it was too sensative to artificial lighting..so I stopped using it. Now have an RCBS chargemaster lite and it's as good as the rcbs beam scales. I also have a lee safety beam.. and believe it or not.. it's accurate.. it just takes forever and a day to settle. hard to go wrong on a rcbs or ohaus scale.
I weigh every charge for my bolt guns, and at least every 5th for my AR's. I check the first 10 on my pistols/revolvers, then gradually go to every 5th, then 10th if things are going well. Reloading is as much therapy/quiet time for me as it is building my ammo supply.Do you weigh every powder charge?
If you ever tire of the Lyman..try a ribs character lite. It's way faster than my old Lyman dps 1200 I had.I have a Redding (don't know the model) that is not magnetically dampened, so it takes FOREVER to settle unless I help it. I have the Lee safety beam that IS magnetically dampened, but it only goes to 110 grains. And I have the Lyman Gen 2 measure and scale, which is very sensitive to air movement. I often use a Lee powder measure to drop the main charge, put it on the electronic scale, then trickle in to finish. This takes less time than letting the Lyman dispense a 50+ grain charge. Every one has their own nuances and preferences though.
I weigh every charge for my bolt guns, and at least every 5th for my AR's. I check the first 10 on my pistols/revolvers, then gradually go to every 5th, then 10th if things are going well. Reloading is as much therapy/quiet time for me as it is building my ammo supply.
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
The Firearms Forum
A forum community dedicated to all firearm owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
