Marlin 25N trigger pull

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by ineedsoap16, Apr 21, 2009.

  1. ineedsoap16

    ineedsoap16 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2009
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    Location:
    Wilmington DE
    I have had this rifle for 13 years and am trying to make a light (more accuarate) trigger pull. I read on a nother forum of guys repalcing the trigger spring with a spring pen spring or something similar. Is this a safe method. I have some knowledge of spring coefficients and spring life so most of me feels this is silly. I assume the spring life of my stock part is longer than a bic spring. Any ideas?
     
  2. mitchp420

    mitchp420 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
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    1
    I realize this is an old thread but: Yes the spring from a click style pen will lighten the trigger pull quite a bit but i find it makes the trigger feel sloppy. I find that a little work with a medium and then fine stone an the sear and trigger mating surfaces will reduce the creep and smooth out the trigger pull. If you take the barreled action out of the stock and look at the trigger group while you dryfire the gun a few times you can see the mating surface on the trigger that touches the sear. If you slowly remove some metal off this point on the trigger you will reduce the distance the trigger has to travel(creep) to fire the gun and in turn lighten and smooth out the pull. Mine fires with just under 3lbs with zero creep. If you take too much material off THE GUN WILL BECOME DANGEROUS! Be careful. If you take it too far you can buy a factory replacement trigger here:http://www.e-gunparts.com/products_new.asp?CatID=3996. It is part #45 they also have just about any other part you may need in the future. Also Rifle Basix sells an adjustable trigger for this gun for around $75. they are drop in and work very nicely
     

  3. Big Shrek

    Big Shrek Well-Known Member

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    Nov 10, 2009
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    1,521
    Location:
    NorthWest Florida
    Thanks for reviving the thread :)

    Here's what everyone REALLY needs to know.
    http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197546

    All I had to do to my Marlin 25MN (.22 WMR) was simply polish/stone the trigger/sear mating lightly, and I used the clicky pen spring mod.

    Makes smaller than dime-sized groups at 50 yards, under a quarter-size at 125.

    Usually leaves .17 shooters feeling jealous.
     
  4. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    Dec 20, 2003
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    8,527
    Location:
    Hesperia, CA
    Trigger work is dangerous if done wrong. Trigger/hammer/sear parts need to be hard in order that the highly loaded surfaces will last. Manufacturers can either harden the entire part or just the surface harden the mating surface. The later is called case hardening and is only a few thousands of an inch thick. Stoning those surface MAY remove the hardened surface altogether and the trigger/hammer/sear surfaces will eventually but shortly become so worn that they are unsafe. Which is it for the Marlin: totally hard parts or just case hard engagement surfaces? You start stoning on the surface beyond just polishing them and you will find out shortly.

    I think installing an adjustable sear a much better option beyond a light polish job to the surfaces. The adjustment allows you to safely change the engagement of the surfaces and minimize creep. But the pull level changes too if the sear spring force is reduced. Thinning the spring diameter (which changes the area cross section of the spring wire or clipping a turn or part of a turn off the existing spring also reduces the pull level but the modified spring must be able to return the trigger adequately.

    LDBennett
     
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