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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a Mini 14 SS in 5.56, first Mini I have had and the first in 5.56, have some questions.

Reloading for a short while just reloaded my first bottleneck round a few weeks ago,22-250 with a 55 grain Hornady varmint bullet, seems to work well. The Mini has a 1:9 RH twist and I will be using this for Coyotes and paper. I have access to many loading manuals, but what I looking for is a real-world experience.

200 yards will be as far as I am willing to shoot at a Coyote, due to land restraints.
I will be open to opinions. The Mini may not be the most accurate, but for banging around in the tractor or on the ATV I can live with 2 minutes of Coyote.

Larry
 

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I no longer have a Mini-14, but if you are asking for advice on loads, I would start out using that same bullet in your .223. That 1:9 twist should handle it very well. I load quite a few .223 and most of what I load is the 55 grain over CFE-223 powder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I no longer have a Mini-14, but if you are asking for advice on loads, I would start out using that same bullet in your .223. That 1:9 twist should handle it very well. I load quite a few .223 and most of what I load is the 55 grain over CFE-223 powder.
Thank you, for the answer. I have used CFE for some time now, seems to be a clean burning powder. I realize my short time as a reloader, therefore, all advice
is good.
Larry
 
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I haven't seen a Mini-14 that was two minutes of anything. I've had two of them over the years, and the most accurate of the two would only do about 5" at 100 yards, the other one was a 7-8" gun. Other people I know have had them and reported the same results that I got. A friend of mine had one that he glass-bedded, put a harmonic stabilizer on it and a high powered scope and couldn't get it to do better that 6" at 100 yards.
 

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Bought my first mini in 82. A SS beauty with the wood guard. Couldn't consistently hit an oil can @ 100 yards with a scope. Reliable as the morning sun but abysmal accuracy. Eventually it found its way to someone else's gun safe but I did kinda miss it. A couple years ago I picked up a Tactical in 300 blackout, it'll keepem in a couple inches at 100 yards with decent ammo.....if I do my part. The newer ones, while not tack drivers, are way more accurate. At least in my experience.
 

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I think you will be fine with that Mini. It was never meant to be a 'Match' rifle, but it sounds like you will use it for what it is meant to be - a reliable coyote rifle at about 100 yards on the farm.

Curious thing, though: I've never understood why those Minis were not more accurate. The caliber is capable of fine accuracy. The basic design is a time proven one. The barrels are not too 'whippy'. The sights are adequate, and Ruger is a company that doesn't produce 'cheap' firearms. They are a pretty close representation of the M-14/M1A.

Maybe this is a waste of time, but as I've only bought one Mini in my life (as a thank-you present for my retired Police Officer brother), I think that I might try two things with one of those rifles: change out the flash suppressor and front sight for a more solid type based on the original M-14 style. That is about the only real difference I can see - and MAYBE that is why the minis don't live up to their potential as-is? I'm only guessing here, but I've always suspected the problem is at the end of the barrels with them.
 

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image.jpg
I bought a Mini 30 and sent it off to have accuracy work
Aftermarket glass bedded stock, heavy barrel chambered in 6mmppc, trigger work etc.
just to piss off the AR guys. Fun gun but make darn sure I pick up that expensive brass!
The bottom mini on the left is one of the 1980s meant for export chambered in 222
 

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I have always wanted a mini 14. Now the price around here has gone up. They want north of $1000 for them. I don't want one that bad.
 

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I used to shoot one and while I can't remember what kind of groups it shot I can remember that it threw the brass into the next county.
 

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They're even better if you install a strut/stabilizer
Skipper - that was what I was talking about in my reply. The only thing I would change with that rifle - the way you have it set up - is to NOT put the front swivel where it is. It would be better (IMHO) to have that swivel in the stock so as to not impact the barrel harmonics. Nice rifle!
 

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Skipper - that was what I was talking about in my reply. The only thing I would change with that rifle - the way you have it set up - is to NOT put the front swivel where it is. It would be better (IMHO) to have that swivel in the stock so as to not impact the barrel harmonics. Nice rifle!
Thanks, Jim, I'll swap it to the new location and see what she does.
It sure likes the Nosler 123 gn Varmageddon Bullet over 25.5 gns RE7
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Jim, thank you for your answer and for the questions that were raised by it.

I am interested in your statement about the end of the barrel problem, can I ask what is the meaning of your statement. Going along with what the others have said I investigated Barrel Tuners, fancy name? I found a site www.varmintal.com that has some very interesting data.

A few other sites jumped up and from at least one site the improvement over a bare barrel was marked. At 50 yards (22cal. Tenex ammo) the difference was
.04 MOA. to me, the difference was not enough to spend the money for a tuner and $.50 per bullet.

Further investigation lead to a barrel brace for the Mini that was supposed to tame the barrel whip, no test data was given, at least on that site.

The bottom line I am interested in your thoughts.

Thanks

Larry
 
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