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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,new here. I hope it is ok to post here. I was just given a couple of my grandfathers old guns. One is what looks like an old musket to me but i literally know nothing about them and don't know where to start. It is missing the cock? Can anyone help identify it and maybe help with where i can get what i need to restore it?
 

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It isn't a musket, a musket is a military weapon normally full stocked and capable of mounting a bayonet. You have what looks like a half stocked fowling piece. This is just going to be a guess without being able to see any proof marks but I'd think it's from the 1850's to 1860's
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well i started cleaning it but not seeing too much in the line of markings. Here is all I've found so far. I'd like to get this back into working order. What am i missing for that to happen? Also what is best to remove the rust from the barrel? Here is a couple more pics. Thanks in advace for any help/ advice
 

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I can't tell what the markings are but it has a rear sight so its not a fowler. You'll probably need to replace all the lock parts and the nipple.
 

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I like using stainless steel wool and penetrating oil, the penetrating oil helps loosen the crusty stuff from the surface and the stainless wool is soft enough not to damage the harder patina under it, remove the patina and you remove a lot of the value.

But in your case it looks as if it's been stripped to bare metal at least once before and then rusted up again.

Does the lock and trigger still function? If so then you will need to find a hammer that fits the tumbler, and is the right length to contact the nipple squarely.

If by back in working order you mean shootable once more the barrel will need to be looked at by a qualified black powder gunsmith to determine if it's still safe to fire.

And do check to make sure it isn't still loaded, a lot of times these old guns were kept loaded at all times when they were being used and many of them were stored away still loaded, if the powder stayed dry can it still be viable even after a hundred years of sitting in an attic somewhere.
 

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I can't tell what the markings are but it has a rear sight so its not a fowler. You'll probably need to replace all the lock parts and the nipple.
If not a fowler then any suggestions what it could be? Sorry i am kinda clueless with anything like this

I like using stainless steel wool and penetrating oil, the penetrating oil helps loosen the crusty stuff from the surface and the stainless wool is soft enough not to damage the harder patina under it, remove the patina and you remove a lot of the value.

But in your case it looks as if it's been stripped to bare metal at least once before and then rusted up again.

Does the lock and trigger still function? If so then you will need to find a hammer that fits the tumbler, and is the right length to contact the nipple squarely.

If by back in working order you mean shootable once more the barrel will need to be looked at by a qualified black powder gunsmith to determine if it's still safe to fire.

And do check to make sure it isn't still loaded, a lot of times these old guns were kept loaded at all times when they were being used and many of them were stored away still loaded, if the powder stayed dry can it still be viable even after a hundred years of sitting in an attic somewhere.
Thank you. And good advice. It didn't even cross my mind that it could still be loaded
 

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Is the bore rifled or smooth like a shotgun and approximately what caliber or diameter is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Smooth and if i was to guess.. 50 cal? That sound to big? I can take more pics of anything you'd like to see. I'm sorry, i really don't know anything about them. My granfather had it and planned to restore it. I'm just trying to find its background and the best way to try to restore. I don't even know where to look for parts to have it at least complete. Thanks again
 

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Try Dixie Gun Works, they have a lot of parts for modern made and antiques.

I did a search of their site for hammer and turned up quite a few. https://www.dixiegunworks.com/advan...=2a&&page=1&osCsid=nbhc689qem3pjtm5b436ibnur0

Your best bet is a blank that doesn't have the hole for the tumbler, if you get one with that square hole already in it chances are that it won't be cut to the right angle or size to work on your lock.

The 'throw' is the distance from the center of the tumbler shaft to the top of the nipple. To get the hole right you need to drill it to the width of the square tumbler shaft, set the lock to half cock and determine the angle it needs to be to let you cap the nipple in half cock, you'll want about a half an inch, and then file it with a small needle file to make the hole square. If it's a little off either from side to side or a little too long or short to hit the nipple on center after the hole is filed and the hammer fitted to the lock you can adjust it by heating it and bending it a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Try Dixie Gun Works, they have a lot of parts for modern made and antiques.

I did a search of their site for hammer and turned up quite a few. https://www.dixiegunworks.com/advan...=2a&&page=1&osCsid=nbhc689qem3pjtm5b436ibnur0

Your best bet is a blank that doesn't have the hole for the tumbler, if you get one with that square hole already in it chances are that it won't be cut to the right angle or size to work on your lock.

The 'throw' is the distance from the center of the tumbler shaft to the top of the nipple. To get the hole right you need to drill it to the width of the square tumbler shaft, set the lock to half cock and determine the angle it needs to be to let you cap the nipple in half cock, you'll want about a half an inch, and then file it with a small needle file to make the hole square. If it's a little off either from side to side or a little too long or short to hit the nipple on center after the hole is filed and the hammer fitted to the lock you can adjust it by heating it and bending it a little.
Awesome thanks for your help
 

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I would guess the xll mark was to keep all the parts from this gun separate from the parts from any other guns under construction. Everything would have been hand fitted to that particular gun and mixing parts up would mean hand fitting everything all over again.
 
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