I think you can file a property damage claim with your neighbors insurance company. What kind of tree was that?
No one seems to know. The neighbor (my wife's cousin) moved there a couple years ago. They had it cut down because it was too close to their house . All I know so far is that was about 60 feet tall and had big leaves. Another neighbor thought it was a "Cottonwood". I tried looking at the Google map overhead ppic but the resolution wasn't good enough.I think you can file a property damage claim with your neighbors insurance company. What kind of tree was that?
I love Sycamores! I miss them because they don't grow very good this far north. They do grow though.After a bit of research this morning I do believe that it was a Sycamore tree. There is another one in the neighbors yard down near the end of my drive way and I uncovered a shallow root along the fence and it is identical. The leaves match also. Their very aggressive roots are known for doing exactly what has happened here. They should not be planted or allowed to grow in an urban area or near homes. The remaining tree is about 60 feet tall, but it has a lot of open yard around it
Safety?Root rot in any form won't do anything in this case. The root is still living. All the root rot stuff is is fertilizer (potassium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, urea, or other forms of nitrogen fertilizer). Nitrogen promotes decay because it helps feed the bacterium and other microorganisms that feed on dead cellulose not live. Besides, rotting a root takes time, often a lot of time.
Goofy has a good plan, but if I'm reading this correctly there is a budget and that budget might not allow the rental of a backhoe, especially a backhoe that also needs an operator to come with it. Excavators and backhoes are not hard to operate, they are, however, very hard to operate efficiently and safely, that takes time and practice, beside there is house connected to the driveway there on the right in picture, in the hands of a novice the wall might just disappear.
The best option here is more expensive than just renting a backhoe, it's hiring a contractor to do all the work from removing the root to placing the concrete and finishing the dirt work and cleaning up the mess. But that will be thousands of dollars. The new concrete alone will be the biggest expense. The root will take a contractor about an hour or so to remove.
Before starting this removal process it's wise to have locates done since it's so close to the house. The contractor will have to do one anyway since some form of digging will be happening.
My credentials are 25 years as an heavy equipment operator, crane operator, and all around laborer. I worked for a small independent contractor with six full time field workers, the owner was a structural engineer. We built Butler buildings early on in my career there but we/I also built bridges, concrete storage tanks, waste water additions and refurbishments, laid miles of ductile iron pipe, built pre-cast tip up buildings, built parking lots, and dabbled in some residential spec housing flat work. I've dug basements, bullpits to put bridge piers and abutments in, demolished bridges, and torn down complete brick buildings. I also lifted many small farm sized wind gens. I did all this with seat of the pants equipment. No modern technology at all.
I'm certified to 90 tons in friction and hydraulic cranes. Not really big, but it was truck mounted (11' wide by 65' long-91,000+lbs road weight- an OLD Lima 5 axle crane) and I also had to drive it and set it up on site, plus transport the boom and counterweights myself. I was also the sight supervisor, and the one that built forms when I wasn't in the machinery.
Anyway, I also have 13 acres that I cleared with one Oliver 1755 tractor and a box blade, a stihl chainsaw, chains, a sawzall, and an axe.
Which brings me to another point, sawzall. Get one from Harbor Freight, buy the longest rough cut blades you can find (generally 12") buy many of them. And go to work on that root. I'm not sure why I forgot how handy this was for cutting roots, blades are cheaper than chainsaw chains and the gravel won't dull them quite as fast. But you will go through a lot of them. BTDT.
Have you tried digging with water to expose enough root to cut, trust me I'm lazy. From your photo it looks like your dealing with sand, silt with some small rocks. If so water will cut through it quickly. Get that area exposed, a chainsaw will cut those roots but you need to get as much dirt clear as possible. A carbide chain will save time as you will not have to stop and sharpen the chain often as is always necessary when cutting dirty wood. It will still dull in dirt but not nearly as quickly as the standard chains, get that root as clean as possible. You may find with the jet you can get a big enough area open to use a good old fashioned hand saw, they still cut good if sharp.All the cuts the have been done so far have been with a sawzall. I have worn out, bent, and broken multiple blades already, will get more. The biggest problem with the sawzall is the 9 inch blades are too short for the big root at the available angles. Any thing longer will be awkward in the confined space.
A little left hand digging to try to get under the root found another 3-4 inch root directly underneath the big one.
Don't ask me my current opinion of Sycamore trees. Especially in "polite" company.
How did the Demonrats miss banning that one? I've got several bottles of the stuff, but have no trees I want to remove. It has other uses...
I spent my time in the Army and survived was shot at I spent about 35 years in worked in and out of construction from below ground to more than a thousand feetWhat? It's construction equipment, it's as safe as common sense can make it. Again, I'm old school construction, when common sense and not OSHA or any other organization stifled work in order to be 100% safe. Ever wonder why everything costs so much these days? Thank those safety organizations. Going to war and being shot at isn't safe, even with all the gear that weighs them down. Construction is different, obviously, but it's still not for the wimps of today, unfortunately, it's getting closer to being for the wimps of today.
The Mommy's insist that no one ever gets hurt for any reason (look at any school playground, you'll notice many of things we had in the 50's-?? are not out there anymore), so they badger the government 'men' enough that those government 'men' bow their heads in total compliance and say yes'm. In addition to more insurance companies calling the shots.
The term "in an abundance of caution" torques me. As does the term "I don't want this to ever happen to anybody else". So everyone suffers to save the few idiots that aren't responsible enough.
But I digress...
So, yes, that blade isn't the safest, but it is the most effective. It's perfectly safe (just like an excavator is) in the hands of somebody that knows how to use it. Kinda like a firearm. It's not as unsafe as a chainsaw actually since I've never experienced a kickback that turned the entire saw end for end in order to be hit with the blade. Just use common sense. Don't try to hog material. A gentle touch and let the teeth do the work. Keep your feet in a fighting stance just like using a chainsaw. If the tendency to stand square with or perpendicular to your work is how one uses a chainsaw they are an accident waiting to happen anyway. Standing that way for above shoulder work is acceptable, but below waist line is totally dangerous. Common sense...
I thank it best if I not answer you post. Tom TThere is that distinct possibility. However, quickie saws are pretty safe, not like a chainsaw. But like I said before, a demo blade is not for the faint of heart. I don't mean that in a bad way.
Anyone that can lift and start one can use a diamond blade on concrete. Just rest the spinning blade on the concrete and start cutting. However, these demo blades might not even be rented because they can cut anything and are hard to control. If it's in a building or any other structure a demo blade can likely cut it. However, the cost of one is pretty high so renting one will be too. A diamond blade was spendy back in the day, but IIRC a demo blade was about three times as much. Assuming they rent blades, not all rental companies will rent blades with the saw for liability reasons. That would put this entire idea out the door. A good diamond blade used to cost about $300.
The last time I used a demo blade was on a 16" saw cutting through an old wooden bridge deck. 4" planks, creosoted, with spikes and nails everywhere in it. I was cutting 10 one foot (plus some) square holes to drive 10" H-piling through to reinforce the bridge because the existing wooden pilings had rotted too much and it wasn't economically feasible to replace the entire bridge since it only served two families. 10 holes equaled 40 plus feet of cutting. That saw wore me out trying to hold it back. If I didn't hold it back it would have grabbed and killed the saw, or yanked it out of my hands or me off my feet and possibly over the edge. It was only a twenty foot drop but I'm pretty sure the stop at the bottom might have hurt some.
Anyway, short of hiring a crew that has digging equipment to do it, this is in my experience, the next easiest way to do it. You hopefully won't have to dig under the root, you won't have to worry about dulling chains, you should be able to cut it out within an hour working at an average to slow pace.
The diamond blade will cut through that 4-6 inches of concrete in about 10 minutes depending on how wide. The hardest part will be pulling that heavy root out of the hole since it will still have tendrils down from it on the bottom side.
For that, never underestimate 6 2x4's in a tripod (three legs of T'd 2x4's bolted together at the top) and a come along.
I miss construction...talking about this brings back good memories of hard work when I was capable of doing hard work...