So, on turkey day, Gander Mountain had Nagants for $99.(after rebate) I said to myself go and check them out, ended up buying 2! You got the gun, holster, tools, and even a 14 round box of ammo. The question I have for you all is, the guns are completly coated in cosmoline, and I mean coated!! Whats the best way to clean them? I've read kerosene or paint thinner works good but I figured I'd ask the pros.
Nagant revolver
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Most of the environmental folks get the blue horrors at the mention of the word, but I always used gasoline. It is still cheap and effective and less volatile and dangerous than some of the other solvents people mention, like acetone. Avoid breathing the fumes and, needless to say, the "smoking lamp is out" when using any flammable substance.
Jim
Jim
Joined
·
41 Posts
kero, gas or hot hot water and mild soap. Remove the wood grips and have at it. Then use break cleaner or carb cleaner. Then oil it.
Or just put on some gloves and shoot it til its hot and wipe it off.
You have to put a few rounds thru it that way though.
Take the Mosin 91/30 fire about 50 rds or more and wipe the rest of the cosmo off the wood and the rest of it. )
Or just put on some gloves and shoot it til its hot and wipe it off.
You have to put a few rounds thru it that way though.
Take the Mosin 91/30 fire about 50 rds or more and wipe the rest of the cosmo off the wood and the rest of it. )
Joined
·
41 Posts
32 S&W long if you absolutely have to. The problem is the shearing of the lead. Minute particles will eventually lock up the cylinder. In a pinch you can shoot them. But you could probably not get away with a box.
32 S&W Long Wadcutters look better possibly, made by Sellier & Bellot all brass case with bullet inside the casing. But still no real seal and lead particles.
32 S&W Long Wadcutters look better possibly, made by Sellier & Bellot all brass case with bullet inside the casing. But still no real seal and lead particles.
Joined
·
71 Posts
I think this type of revolver can work whit silencer... Im make mistake ?
Joined
·
300 Posts
I used brake cleaner on my m44 mosin nagant and it worked great at getting the cosmo out of all the nooks and crannies of the metal. Just spray on then wipe the cosmo away. I followed it with a liberal spraying of CLR after that because the brake cleaner will pull all the oil out of the metal, or so I've heard. I didn't use it on the wood, so no promises there. Baby wipes work great for a starter to get rid of the big globs. I used the car dashboard on a hot day trick for my m1 carbine stock and it works great for pulling out the cosmo, but it takes a while to get it all. My wife has a professional high temp hairdryer that works really good. If you put the stock in the oven, cosmoline melts at a pretty low temp, I think it's around 150. I can't remember the combustion temp though, so low and slow should be good, with a tray to catch the drippings.
If you reload, size cut down .223 in .30 carbine dies.
This leaves a "belt" near the rim.
Remove this belt in lath or even with a file in a drill motor.
Resize and load with .32 cal lead.
This costs next to nothing since .223 is usually free for the picking up at ranges.
I cut mine shorter than stock so that I can crimp the bullet.
This leaves a "belt" near the rim.
Remove this belt in lath or even with a file in a drill motor.
Resize and load with .32 cal lead.
This costs next to nothing since .223 is usually free for the picking up at ranges.
I cut mine shorter than stock so that I can crimp the bullet.
Joined
·
3,447 Posts
I take all the wood parts off and toss my cosmo-coated parts into an old container of boiling water. Sometimes it's so caked on that it take a bit but you can skim the crud off the top of the water and tell when it eventually stops coming out of it. Notice I said "OLD" container, the wife won't appreciate having any of her pots that she uses coated in cosmo...
You can buy a cylinder for the .32 for like $40, or used to be able to not too long ago.
You can buy a cylinder for the .32 for like $40, or used to be able to not too long ago.
Well, if everything goes right I should be at the range this coming weekend to try them out. Gander said to give 96 hrs instead of the standard 72 hour wait time for pickup due to the holiday so I'll get them on tuesday. I ordered a 1096 round tin of surplus ammo today and that should be here on thursday. Next thing to do is order some new factory ammo so I can start saving up some boxer primed brass for reloading. Surfing the web there are many different ideas and ways to reload for this gun. There's even a 32 ACP conversion cylinder I've read about but have not been able to find anyone that is still actually selling them.
Joined
·
19,480 Posts
the turning down or filing at the base has me worried on that one.. i may leave that one for those more experienced.
interesting idea though.
I used mineral spirts and a small paint brush,,,worked great!!! I ended up with a 1944 and a 1945 Izzy, both in great shape and no ugly placed import marks. While I had them all apart I did a little trigger work on them (as shown on some u-tube videos) and the actions are nice and smooth. My 1000 round tin of surplus ammo is supposed to be delievered tommorrow and hope to be at the range this weekend to try them out. I found out that the army surplus ammo has a steel core. I sure hope the range don't mind as its a releativly low velocity round. Now the research is on how I'll be reloading. There seems to be lots of different ways to skin that cat!
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
I've heard that the 32 ACP cylinders are off the market because 32 ACP was too hard on the Nagant's forcing cone, which is normally protected by the extended Nagant cartridge case.
32 ACP is harder on the gun than 32 Long because it uses a jacketed bullet at a higher velocity than 32 Long. Almost all factory 32 Long ammo uses soft swaged lead bullets.
I have not been able to find a cite for the 32 ACP cylinders being gone, though, so it might be just a rumor.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
