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Howdy, recently I purchased a Lee classic turret press and picked up a 3 die set with it for 300 black out. I have verniers for checking case and overall length. I bought the auto drum powder measure then I bought 250 pre prepped 300 BLKO brass. I bought Nosler 110gr varmageddon FB tipped and Sierra Varminter 110g hp bullets. Now I have to decide which powder I want. I will be shooting a Marauder 7" barrel to start with but I have a 10.5" barrel I will be swapping it with soon. Here is the question, I have a couple selections of powder I can use to reload with, but I would like to hear from those who have reloaded this round as to what their preference is on powder. Thanks
 

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I no longer load 300BO, but when I did I used a 150 grain bullet, over IMR 4227 powder. I am looking at my Hornady #10 manual and see that there seems to be a few good choices of powders. I, personally, would choose one that I could use with other cartridges that I load.
 
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I no longer load 300BO, but when I did I used a 150 grain bullet, over IMR 4227 powder. I am looking at my Hornady #10 manual and see that there seems to be a few good choices of powders. I, personally, would choose one that I could use with other cartridges that I load.
Thanks, by what I am reading I will be loading up to 125gr and keeping it at super sonic. The 10.5" barrel I have for it has a 1:8 twist and I want a weapon that can cycle any grain ammo. This m4 is my first AR and I am just getting it set up to take it to the range for the first time. First I will be running factory loads through it, then I wish to load my own after the first 4 boxes. Thanks for the help.
 
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According to my reloading data, I thought I had it narrowed down to Hodgdon H110 Powder or
Hodgdon Lil' Gun Powder. Just curious if anyone has a preference of the two? the H110 looks more versatile for different loads but I have read about some who prefer the Lil' Gun powder as well. Opinions here matter to me, thanks!
 

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I like Lil' Gun. It covers a wide load range and I have it in stock.

Larry
 
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The only thing I use Lil'Gun for is my .50 Beowulf. I use H110 for .30 Carbine and some 357 Magnum loads.
 

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Thanks Larry, do you have a store I can browse?
Sorry, no store, just my own stock. On some calibers that I do not load often I will try different powders/ weights.
You might check out the on-line data offered by the different powder companies/ bullet suppliers for more load information. The data is free for the asking. I loke the Hodgon site it allows different loads and bullet combinations without spending any money. Many of the reloading manuals offer ballistic information as far as bullet weight, velocity, and pressures.
Reloading is a great hobby and one that you can grow old with.

Larry
 

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I load a ton of 300 Blackout. Mostly for a 16" 1:8 twist heavy barrel. It's a great round that offers a lot of room for experimentation.
110 grain bullets preform better than expected. But I've gotten the best groups from 150 grains on a charge of H110. I'm talking one ragged hole at 100 yards. 1:8 just loves the heavier bullet.
They cycle fine through the 10" barrel too, but I don't bench rest that gun so I can't speak for the same pin point precision.
I tried some CFEBLK from Hodgdon, but so far I'm not impressed. I'll stick with H110.
I won't post actual load data for obvious reasons. But I suggest starting with Hodgdon's minimum load, and working up SLOWLY. A little H110 goes a long way. Work up 1/10 of a grain at a time to find the load your gun likes best.
Crimping is not absolutely necessary. But I've found a very slight crimp helps in my case.
Have fun, and let us know how it works out.
 

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Howdy, recently I purchased a Lee classic turret press and picked up a 3 die set with it for 300 black out. I have verniers for checking case and overall length. I bought the auto drum powder measure then I bought 250 pre prepped 300 BLKO brass. I bought Nosler 110gr varmageddon FB tipped and Sierra Varminter 110g hp bullets. Now I have to decide which powder I want. I will be shooting a Marauder 7" barrel to start with but I have a 10.5" barrel I will be swapping it with soon. Here is the question, I have a couple selections of powder I can use to reload with, but I would like to hear from those who have reloaded this round as to what their preference is on powder. Thanks
You didn't mention a powder scale. You need one and also a powder trickeler if you are going to charge your cases accurately. A powder measurer is fine, but you will find that charges will vary and you will need to trickle power to bring the charges up to exactly the weight you are looking for. I use a case loading block to hold my cases as I charge them, and then double check all of them to insure each case has a proper powder charge. Fine ball powder is easier to throw consistent charges than flake or stick powder. If you are loading one caliber and one bullet weight you may want to select one type/brand of primer and stick with that as you develop your 'best loads'.
 
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You didn't mention a powder scale. You need one and also a powder trickeler if you are going to charge your cases accurately. A powder measurer is fine, but you will find that charges will vary and you will need to trickle power to bring the charges up to exactly the weight you are looking for. I use a case loading block to hold my cases as I charge them, and then double check all of them to insure each case has a proper powder charge. Fine ball powder is easier to throw consistent charges than flake or stick powder. If you are loading one caliber and one bullet weight you may want to select one type/brand of primer and stick with that as you develop your 'best loads'.
Your right, I do need the powder scale and trickler and I have been reading reviews on them but I have not decided which ones I want yet. I am by no means a know it all, the most reloading I have done in the past is with a lee hand loader for a 357 mag. That was 25 years ago. I want to do it right, and do it right the first time so I will be going at it 1 step at a time. It is much appreciated from all on the advice.
 
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I load a ton of 300 Blackout. Mostly for a 16" 1:8 twist heavy barrel. It's a great round that offers a lot of room for experimentation.
110 grain bullets preform better than expected. But I've gotten the best groups from 150 grains on a charge of H110. I'm talking one ragged hole at 100 yards. 1:8 just loves the heavier bullet.
They cycle fine through the 10" barrel too, but I don't bench rest that gun so I can't speak for the same pin point precision.
I tried some CFEBLK from Hodgdon, but so far I'm not impressed. I'll stick with H110.
I won't post actual load data for obvious reasons. But I suggest starting with Hodgdon's minimum load, and working up SLOWLY. A little H110 goes a long way. Work up 1/10 of a grain at a time to find the load your gun likes best.
Crimping is not absolutely necessary. But I've found a very slight crimp helps in my case.
Have fun, and let us know how it works out.
Thanks so much on the information. The 10.5" barrel I will be putting on it is a heavy barrel as well also with the 1:8 twist. Once I learned I will not get a complete powder burn I started looking for a long enough barrel to get a complete burn out of it. The 7" barrel I bought with a complete upper has a 1:7 twist but I will be getting rid of it once I change the barrels out.
 

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I’ve had very good luck with H110. For me and my gun it seems to like loads closer to the max charge.

I’ve loaded 110gr VMax very close to max charge with excellent results and almost duplicating the posted velocity on the Hornady box.

For me the COL for the 110 Gr Vmax worked much better at 2.100”. Hornady has it posted at 2.050”, but their factory rounds were 2.100”???

300 BO has so many options to load for, have fun this cartridge is versatile within a 100 Yards.
 
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"For me the COL for the 110 Gr Vmax worked much better at 2.100”. Hornady has it posted at 2.050”, but their factory rounds were 2.100”???"
I have a box of those, makes good sense what your saying. Thanks. I wonder why Hornady has it posted that way but load their own differently?
 

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All guns vary somewhat, that is why I use the Hornady length gage in order to establish the correct bullet length. The gage will establish the point of the bullet engagement in the barrel. I can then vary that distance in order to get the correct set back for the bullet. This is back will help in the accuracy of the round.
I have found that the act of reloading a round is easy, it is the little things that make it an interesting hobby.

Larry
 
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
"I have found that the act of reloading a round is easy, it is the little things that make it an interesting hobby."
I totally agree that this will be a very interesting hobby. The new tools I will be learning about and learning to use will be as fun as it gets.. Thanks for the pointers, so glad I found this forum.

edited to remove bad wording. how I talk in person is too easy to put on paper but the more I have read here made me realize my mistake. I will keep this in mind on any future posting
 

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There are a number of gauges on the market to use for determining ideal OAL.
I'm cheap, so I use the Frankfort Arsenal kit. It's just two plastic thumb screw clamps, and a screw in stopper that goes on any cleaning rod. It's simple to use. Just bottom the cleaning rod against the closed bolt of the rifle and set the first clamp against the muzzle. Then take the bolt out and drop one of the bullets you plan on using into the chamber and hold it in place with a dowel, or another cleaning rod. Bottom the cleaning rod again, and set the second clamp. The distance between the clamps is the exact measurement of your chamber.
You'll want to subtract 15-20 thousands off that for your OAL to avoid pressure issues. Naturally a shorter round will still work fine, but accuracy will suffer.
I do this with all of my 300blk rounds. It doesn't work with .223 though because the chamber is longer than the magazine will hold.
 
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There are a number of gauges on the market to use for determining ideal OAL.
I'm cheap, so I use the Frankfort Arsenal kit. It's just two plastic thumb screw clamps, and a screw in stopper that goes on any cleaning rod. It's simple to use. Just bottom the cleaning rod against the closed bolt of the rifle and set the first clamp against the muzzle. Then take the bolt out and drop one of the bullets you plan on using into the chamber and hold it in place with a dowel, or another cleaning rod. Bottom the cleaning rod again, and set the second clamp. The distance between the clamps is the exact measurement of your chamber.
You'll want to subtract 15-20 thousands off that for your OAL to avoid pressure issues. Naturally a shorter round will still work fine, but accuracy will suffer.
I do this with all of my 300blk rounds. It doesn't work with .223 though because the chamber is longer than the magazine will hold.
Sweet, sounds like a great idea and plan. I will be looking that up. Thanks
 

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I have a powder trickler and use it as a reservoir for powder to use for topping up or removing excess powder from a charge.

I use a lab spatula like this to transfer a few granules of powder from an overweight charge or to top up an underweight charge. You can get them from ebay.
 

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I have a powder trickler and use it as a reservoir for powder to use for topping up or removing excess powder from a charge.

I use a lab spatula like this to transfer a few granules of powder from an overweight charge or to top up an underweight charge. You can get them from ebay.
I use a baby food spoon that I swiped from my son about 48 years ago.
 
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